reebok hockey

Crosby approached the Penguins with the idea of starting a youth hockey program, and Sidney Crosby’s Little Penguins were born in 2008. Crosby brought in Reebok Hockey (now CCM), and the Penguins got Dick’s Sporting Goods involved. Together each year they arranged for 1,000 boys and girls ages 5-7 to receive a complete set of equipment for free and set them up in Learn to Play practice sessions at 25 locations throughout the region.

This season, they increased the number of participating players to 1,200 and hope to have it up to 2,000 players next season by splitting the program into two.

“I love the game and if there’s an opportunity to help kids enjoy the game and get something out of it and kind of help them have that opportunity, then that’s something I wanted to be a part of,” Crosby said. “So I was lucky the team wanted to get involved and various sponsors and things like that to make it happen. It’s grown a lot and it’s nice to see.”


Sidney Crosby’s legacy in Pittsburgh goes beyond the Cup: On the Little Penguins Learn to Play Program

“I think that when you’re in positions to be able to help and give back, that’s something that when you get to the NHL you have a great opportunity to be able to do that,” he said. “I’m definitely happy that it’s continued and it’s continued to grow.”

How to make Mituna’s helmet

Inspired by: murtunacaptor

I’ve had a couple of people asking how I made my Mituna helmet, so why not make a tutorial of it? Unfortunately I was really extremely bad at taking photo progress during the whole work, and I’m not even joking! I have about two pictures with most of the helmet already assembled, so I’m mostly going to describe what I’ve done and point on pictures. Hopefully this will be of help in some ways!

The most important feature on the helmet for me was;

Small and lithe.

Good shape, since the talksprite’s helmet doesn’t look completely smooth and I prefer it that way.

Removable horns to create an illusion.

A see-through visor.

1. Since I’m a lazy bum I didn’t want to add too much extra build to the helmet, so I had to find one with my wanted features already on it. After a lot of searching I actually found that in the Reebok 3K Hockey Helmet, so now I had my base! 

2. Next step since I didn’t want my helm to look bulky was to dismantle the whole damn thing and remove the padding. The padding turned out to sit extremely hard and the only way for me to remove it was to saw the bolts holding it in place off. If you own a jeweler saw or another saw that can hold thin blades for metal sawing, now is the time to bring it out together with the screwdriver, you’re going to need it.

3. When I finally had the helmet in two pieces without padding, I sanded a bit on the holes where the screws and bolts once were in order to remove rough edges. Then it was just to reassemble the thing again and choosing what size to have, REMEMBER that there is going to be a new padding as well as a wig under there so make sure to leave extra room!

4. Next up is to fill all the unwanted holes. I used a light weight air drying clay for this and hoped that once dry it would stay where I put it, which it thankfully did.  Not sure if it helped, but I smoothed the clay on both sides so the clay had more to hold on to. Let the clay dry for the day and then sand it smooth.

5. If you want the front part to come down like in the talksprite, you can add that now or in the same step as stage 4. Same goes for the “holes” where your horns are, which makes it time for you to decide if you want removable horns (with a magnet or something else) or if you want permanent ones. Since I went with magnets on mine, I just made four craters big enough for the magnets and horns.

6. Not sure what to call the ear-muff looking things on the side of the head, buuut I made the base for them in foam. First I glued the foam pieces on, let them dry, cut them into the right shape, cowered them in wood glue in order to fill the tiny air holes in the foam, then finally two layers of clay; on to get the whole base smooth and the second to get the correct shape.

7. When all this was done I cowered the whole thing with diluted wood glue. Probably not necessary, but I like to think that it’s easier to paint since the clay won’t absorb the paint in the same way anymore.

8. And since I was lazy again I simply spray painted a layer of white on the outside and the visible parts on the inside. Recommended to use a wig stand. Let it dry over the night and paint the thing yellow on the morning either by spray or brush. If you want to use a finisher I recommend you to do that now instead of later, since the visor will be in the way then.

9. Make your visor! For me this was the hardest part since no matter what I did, it didn’t want to be round. I guess the cause of this was the overhang from the helmet; I shouldn’t have curved it like I did. For the visor I used a sheet of OH-film/overhead paper; it’s a type of clear plastic you can print out from a printer and cut it in two. Then I took a clear blue plastic folder and a piece of clear red cellophane since I couldn’t find a red folder. Measured how the two colors should meet and cut thereafter, shouldn’t have settled on such a big diagonal, but oh well. In order to have the pieces stay where I wanted them, I stapled them together which worked surprisingly well. The order was; OH-paper –> red + blue folder –> OH-paper.

10. Before gluing the visor on place it’s best to work out how you want to put your new padding. For this I used black craft foam pieces I had at home, which I glued on with wood glue but a glue-gun will probably work better. When you have your padding pieces figured out you can start gluing the inside together, starting with the front and visor and work to the back.

11. And you’re done! :D

If anything still feels unclear, don’t hesitate to ask :) And as a little end note, I was so damn close all the time to replace “to” and “too” with “two” while writing, so in other words 29 times not counting the last two ;)