in case you haven’t noticed……..i’m avant-garde…….i’m a post-modernist…….i don’t……fit in………and i don’t…want……..to fit in……have you ever seen me without this stupid c'est ne pas une pipe shirt on? that’s post-modern….avant-garde
You know you love screechy female vocals and arrhythmic guitars. This was a San Francisco art punk band that existed from 1979-1980. Some of the members were in Inflatable Boy Clams apparently. This song totally rules.
RIYL: Bush Tetras, Slits, Raincoats, Guerilla Toss, Tuxedomoon, Pylon
It’s FRIDAY FASHION FACT, and it’s time for our next designer bio! Today we are talking about the innovative and inspiring Mariano Fortuny.
Fortuny was born in 1871 in Granada Spain. Both his father and
maternal grandfather were renowned painters. Though his father died when
Fortuny was only three years old, he remained a source of inspiration
throughout the designer’s life. Fortuny’s parents had a wide textile
collection which fascinated Fortuny from a young age. Throughout his
youth, he lived in some of the great art cities of Europe, including
Paris and Venice. He became involved in many forms of art, including
painting, photography, and even lighting and set design for Wagner
operas. In fact, it was Mariano Fortuny who pioneered the idea of
theatre designers working in tandem with the construction team to mold
and adapt the design every step of the way. To this day, this remains
one of the first lessons taught to aspiring theatre designers.
continued to be involved in theatre for the remainder of his career,
both designing and inventing new forms of stage lighting. But the reason
we are talking about him today is, of course, his fashion designs.
During he rise of his fashion career around the turn of the 20th
Century, women’s fashion consisted of highly structured, corseted, and
typically quite heavy gowns. Fortuny was inspired by classic simplicity
of the ancient Greeks, though, and thus took his designs in a completely
different direction from the top fashions of the day. His looks were
extremely avant-garde for the time, and only the most daring women would
don his sleek creations. Not only were the looks shocking to polite society,
but they were originally designed to be casual tea dresses. As a result, women would only wear Fortuny designs at home. It
wasn’t until post World War I, when corsets fell from favor and gowns
were simplified, that Fortuny gowns were seen in public.
epitome of Fortuny’s aesthetic is in the infamous Delphos gown. This
simplistic gown, named for the ancient Greek bronze statue, The Charioteer of Delphi,
was created using tightly pleated silk. First created in 1907, Mariano
Fortuny made a number of variations of the Delphos gown throughout his
career. The silhouette itself was extremely simple, mimicking the Greek
chiton (read here.) Yet it was the perfectly pleated, airy silk which
caused such a stir. The edges of the silk would be minimally trimmed
with Murano glass beads which would slightly weigh down the light fabric so
that it hugged the body. The fabric was created using a top secret
formula where the fabric was heated and pressed with ceramic. However,
the process was so closely guarded that its exact specifications remain
a mystery to this day, and the pleating has yet to be replicated. Even
at the time the dresses were first created, if the pleats were ever
accidentally pressed out of a gown, the owner would need to return the
piece to Fortuny’s personal studio to have it re-pleated.
lived most of his later years in Venice in a 13th Century palazzo along
with his wife Henriette, also a skilled dressmaker who helped create
many of her husband’s designs. Fortuny passed away in 1949, yet his
stunning designs remain some of the most sought after vintage pieces in
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“The Avant-Garde: Subtle, Cerebral, Elusive”
Time magazine, Nov. 22nd 1968, showing (from left to right) artists Keith Sonnier, Bruce Nauman, Robert Ryman, Bill Bollinger, Robert Morris, Richard Tuttle, and David Lee
My eyes were jaded, so close to the center I could not see But now they are fixed and glaring at the sacrifice to be made Now that I’m aware of the cycle,s I pray that I can deal Now that I have shown you these cycles, I pray that you can feel