Grimm Skull Walkthrough

Back when I was making my Grimm costume from RWBY, I had a terrible time deciding how to make the skull portion without getting my hands dirty with bondo or resin casting. So, here is a step by step of what I did-

First, I bought some plasticine from Walmart. It’s a type of clay that does not dry out and it’s pretty cheap and reusable.

Next, I used a foam head and began layering the plasticine to create a skull shaped that I liked. I went through a lot of nitpicking for a couple weeks, but the great thing about plasticine is that it is considerably forgiving. It’s incredible easy to add more to it or take some away. Unfortunately, I do not have a picture of this progress point.

After completely my model, I added a thin layer of paper mache and let dry. Once completely dry I took a sheet of Worbla and formed it over the model.

It was my first time working with Worbla so I had some rips, but a layer of fast mache took out any imperfections.

Note : fast mache doesn’t exactly bond with Worbla. It sticks some, but I ended up sanding and then smoothing area’s with a mixture of water and wood filler. It worked rather well all together though.

Please use a mask, respirator, or be outside when sanding!</b>

It seemed like forever before I was done sanding! After a layer of wood filler and sanding with a high grit sand paper (grit 180-220), I sprayed on a layer of primer/filler paint to help me see any holes.

I repeated the process of filling, sanding, and priming until I was satisfied. Then, I used some paper clay to make the fangs. Paper clay is easy to sand, easy to use, and quick drying.

From there I continued adding teeth with paper clay and sanding down the edges as I went along. A few teeth popped off while sanding so I used some gorilla glue to attach them back on.

Once those are secured, I dremeled out some grooves in the skull and coated the entire thing in white Plastidip. This sealed everything in a coat of rubber and made it less likely to be damaged.

Here, I had painted in the red lines, stretched black spandex on the inside of the eyes, and added ears. The spandex allowed me to see rather well without being seen underneath, it also allowed the installment of LEDs to light the eyes. The ears were cut from 5 mm craft foam and were easily formed with a heat gun.

Finally, I added a bottom jaw from worbla, teeth from more paper clay, and furred it! The back of the head, I used some green upholstery foam to help the form by the cheeks. Duct tape was used to make the pattern for the ears, jaw, and back. That’s about it!

I hope this is able to help!

Foam Armor Tutorial

@thewouldbeswedish asked, and I had been wanting to at least make mention of my painting discoveries, so here it is.

I shall add mine to the million or so others out there. I watched damn near every tutorial I could find, scoured Pinterest and combined a few different techniques, as well as coming up with my own(at least I hadn’t seen it elsewhere)



Paper(for your template)

Tape Measure

Exacto Knife/box cutter

Floor Mat foam

Craft Foam

Contact Cement

Hot Glue

Acrylic Paint
black, metallic gun metal, metallic sterling silver

Textile Medium(can be found with the acrylic paint)

Paint Brushes


Rub ‘n Buff(totally optional)

Keep reading

McCree Cosplay Flashbangs

So I realized I had neglected to post any of my progress photos for my flash-bangs for McCree. I’m super happy with how they turned out. So I’ve put this together for you guys i hope you enjoy! Sorry some of the photos are terrible.

I’m going to tell you i almost went crazy cutting out 45 circle into this eva foam.

PVC pipe is amazing but i would have liked to use something clear.

Another crappy picture i’m sorry. But hey they look more like Flash-bangs now!!

So for some reason the rest of I took are gone.but i do have the finished product. this is after I sprayed them with plastidip and painted them. They look so great next goal is to get the to light up. that’ll be fun.



Pic 1 - I used the foam mats pictured. They are from Harbor Freight, it’s known as EVA foam, and is about 1/2″ thick. I cut out a cardboard version of the sword first,like a rough draft. To make the sword as long as possible out of one piece of foam, I had to cut it out diagonally. This is the cardboard version I used with the finished piece!

Pic 2 - Cut out TWO slices of foam, one for each side. You can use high-power scissors or exacto/drywall blades.

Pic 3 - Close up of the detail near the base of the blade. The sword has those petal-looking parts. I used my Dremel lightly to make these indentations.

Pic 4 - Carving out a channel for the wooden dowel to go through. It forms a handle and keeps the blade stiff. Again, I used the Dremel for this, though there may be a few other methods to make this possible.

Pic 5 - The dowel/core of the sword sandwiched between the two sides. The whole thing is hot glued together. The dowel is somewhere between 1/2″ and 5/8″ so I had to carve a little more than halfway through the foam! Now, I KNOW this is not an ideal core for a foam sword, and if it breaks, there is pretty much no fixing it at all. So this is unfortunately not a LARP-ready sword. There ARE different cores made for LARP foam swords that are flexible and won’t break easy, this is just what I used. I think other ones are made out of fiberglass or something. If you want that, do the extra research and find where to get them. I just need to be gentle with it.

Pic 6 - This is the guard. I used a dog food bowl to get the circle right. I pretty much guessed for the length of the guard. I used my Dremel to bore out holes to stick it through the dowel.

Pic 7 - Here I have the guard put on. For the actual handle part, I used a strip of super-thin craft foam, wrapped around several times. It adds to the thickness of the handle and is pretty comfortable and squishy.

Pic 8 - The rose-shaped pommel of the sword. This is four little pieces of foam glued together and Dremeled into a roughly rose-shaped piece. It’s a bit rough but I’m happy with it.

Pic 9 - This is the best picture I could find that shows the edge of the blade, also smoothed down with the Dremel. This is one time you could easily use  sandpaper in its place. It’s a little rough, because this is one of the first things I tried the Dremel on.

Pic 10 - Before painting, I first used Plastidip on the foam to seal it and keep me from needing a million coats of paint. Bare foam tends to soak up some paints. I’ve mentioned this stuff in my other tutorial posts, and they have pictures of a can of Plastidip in them. I’m out of space for pictures on this post. Use a minimum of two coats, three or more and you’re gold. 

And that’s it for construction and paint-prepping. I’ll need to make a part two for painting it. This was not too complicated of a thing to make. If you’re still here, thanks for reading, I try my best to go into detail as much as I can about my process. I hope this helped, if only a little. I’ve seen lots of cool Rose Quartz Swords out there, I chose this way based on what I’ve done in the past and my experience with foam. Do whatever works for YOU specifically. But don’t be put off from trying something new! If you have any more questions, as I’m sure I missed something, please feel free to ask! I am super happy to help.

Rose Quartz Sword painting tutorial/explanation:

Peridot headpiece tutorial/explanation:

Peridot Limb enhancements tutorial/explanation:

My cosplay page on Facebook: GemRobotDragon Creations

boomerang prop tutorial (sivir/league of legends)

expanded version of my response to a build tutorial request on reddit

you will need:

  • eva foam
  • exact-o knife
  • dremel
  • metal wire
  • contact cement
  • 4 long nails or screws
  • worbla
  • craft foam
  • lots of acrylic paint
  • semi-glossy polyurethane spray
  • plastidip 
  • paintbrushes
  • wood glue
  • brown electrical tape

1) start by drawing an outline of the blade on the eva foam with a sharpie. you want the blades to be a substantial size, but no bigger than your torso. once you have your outline to your liking, cut the pieces using an exact-o knife. cut out 8 blades (4 blades + 4 mirroring blades to stack on top of them for reinforcement), 8 handle pieces, and 2 base circle parts

2) use the contact cement (my fav adhesive) to glue the mirroring sections on to once another. with the blade pieces, add some of the metal wire (along with a nail on the bottom so it can attach to the handle better) in the middle of the two sections to reinforce and keep the blades from bending. so at this point you would have 4 blades, 4 handles, and a big circle

3) sand the edges with a dremel and add lil details such as the bevels and the triangle section that holds the gem piece on top of the blade

4) (make sure you do this next part outside otay) coat the sections with two layers of black plastidip. wait about a day for it to dry off!

5) now that you have your boomerang primed, paint over it with acyrilic paint. i used a lot of yellows and greys and just mixed them accordingly (remember, mix dark paints into light paint and not the other way around!). i used two or three coats, and waited a day for drying as well

6) the green gems were the last bit that i did. for them, use worbla over craft foam to make the triangle-ish shape. prime it with two layers of wood glue, followed by acrylic paint, and polyurethane. once the gems are dried, add them to the blades

7) using the contact cement, glue everything together to make the final boomerang

8) as an optional bit, add some electrical tape to the circle-handle for better grip

that’s all there is to it, i hope this was helpful and easy enough to read!!!

how i make armor look weathered or whatever

a really technical tutorial for cosplay.

so like, let’s say you want to make some really shitty-looking darker armor like i did for blackwall. i made all of this crap out of eva foam, het it up with a heat gun, sealed it with some PVA glue, and then like, i sprayed it with a few coats of black plastidip and let it dry. blah blah blah this isn’t a tutorial about any of those steps so let’s say you already done did that shit and now you are at the painting stage. oh shit now what??

here is you a piece of armor. this particular piece is uh the thing that goes on the calf. greave??? sure, that sounds right. i don’t have time for google.

1. STEP ONE- I have this really neat stuff called “rub n buff” that is some kind of waxy substance that is metal colors. rub it on shit and that shit will look like metal!!! then you can buff it later and it’ll get shinier. it comes in a bunch of colors, but what i’m using in this step is “pewter” which is harder to find than some of the other colors. I get it from amazon, whereas the others can be found at hobby lobby, michaels, jerrys artarama, etc.

anyway, i squeeze a little of this crap on to the surface of the black plastidip and let it dry out a minute or two, and then I just kind of rub it around randomly and try and get it to look like hammer strikes on metal.  the reason i let it dry a bit is because if i don’t, sometimes the gradation will be too smooth and it doesn’t look the way i want. don’t let it dry too long, though, or it won’t smear and then you’ll just have random raised spots. also yes my keyboard is gross, leave me alone i know i need to clean it. i need to clean my whole house. stop judging me i’m an artiste.

2. STEP 2- here’s what this whole thing looks like after i smear it around and whatever. you can see on the section second from the bottom, that thing that looks like a tear is where i let the rub n buff dry too long before i spread it around. I TOLD YOU NOT TO DO THAT and that’s why. right now this doesn’t look bad but it doesn’t look super great, either. note that i left areas that are dark, mostly where edges or corners are.

3. STEP 3- this is where all those years attempting to learn how to digitally paint come in handy for me. i have two brushes for this: one of those foam brush things, and a large flat brush. I dip the flat brush into some flat black acrylic paint (whatever the cheapest stuff you can find is) and then i do a bunch of strokes like this.

i’m going to put the rest of this under the cut because it’s long as fuck

Keep reading

Skyward Sword Shield Tutorial

So I made my shield for my Skyward Sword cosplay this weekend! I’m very happy with it and I wanted to show you the process!

What we’re making:

Reference pics are very important, make sure to find lots of them!


-Poster board
-Puzzle piece foam (Five Below, $3)
-Craft foam, different thicknesses
-Acrylic paint
-something shaped like half spheres
-x-acto knife/box cutter

Step 1: Template

I always start with a paper template, no mayter what I make. I grabbed my poster board, folded it in half and drew half of my shield shape. It took me a few tries to get the size/shape right…but don’t give up! Eventually you’ll get something you like!

Step 2: The Base

Once I was happy with my template, I traced it on my piece of foam!

Step 3: The Frame

Using a second piece of the same foam and my template, I drew the shape of the frame and cut it out.

Then I glued the frame to the base and covered it in plastidip.

Once it was dry, I sprayed the whole thing in blue spray paint.

At this point, I wanted to add a curve to it before I got too far, so I used my heat gun to give it a little bit of a curve.

Next I covered the blue part and sprayed the frame with silver

Step 4: The Pretty Things

For the Triforce and the rest of the details I used craft foam in different thicknesses, painted with acrylic paints.

For the Hylian crest, I found an image on goggle and brought it into illustrator to resize it to my liking, then printed it.

Next I cut it out with an x-Acto knife to make a stencil.

Then all I had to do was fill it in with red paint and voila!

For the half-spheres I found these glasses with creepy eyes…they had the perfect shape spheres though so I sprayed them with plastidip and silver paint.

Step 5: The Back

For the back, I had 2 layers, first was thin craft foam to cover the rough look of the back, second was thicker foam cut using my template in a window-like manner

The strap is a piece of craft foam painted with brown acrylic and the handle is made with the puzzle piece foam

The Result


And there you have it! Thanks for reading! If you have any questions, feel free to ask!