pictorial makeup

5

Dark Dramatic Plum Lips, Soft Plum Eyes

Did this look last week using an expensive Dior palette but I decided to recreate a pictorial for it using something that’s a bit more accessible AND (more importantly) not limited edition, so more of you can try it!

Dark plum lips are actually flattering for most people and most skintones as long as you stick with the reddish/violet plums. Avoid the brown-plums because those are much trickier to pull off and can just make your face look dull and dirty.

For this soft silky eye look (which complements but won’t overpower that dark glossy lip) you just need the Urban Decay Shadow Box. I’ve marked out the shades used in the image above. 

An optional step is applying cluster lashes. I wanted fluttery fullness but not the darkness and harshness of black mascara and liner. But if you need, just skip it and apply regular mascara. 

For the cheeks, I used a discontinued mauve blush from YSL, but just use any neutral or cool-toned pink blush. Skip the super-shimmery ones. You want your cheeks to be very muted so that it’s not fighting for attention with your lips and eyes.

As for that dark glittery glossy lip, it’s all about layering. I used MAC Fashion Revival and coated it generously with Lime Crime’s Carousel Lip Gloss in Present.

Neither dark lipstick nor dark gloss will be as intense and dramatic on their own. But if you can layer, you get opaque color AND a lacquer like shine. (You can use a dark plum lip liner in place of lipstick too; that lasts longer. But it’s just easier to find a dark plum lipstick for most people. And I’d recommend looking for a matte texture so it doesn’t bleed the way a cream lipstick will once the gloss goes on.)

Just remember to apply concealer or foundation around the rim of your lips to even out the color, and make sure you also conceal any unevenness around your face because dark lipstick tends to emphasize those.

4

Beta Baby: Bright Orange Lips and Dark Lids 

Are you ready for super dark lids and a bright orange lip?

The eye look is pretty much a solid black, with hints of chocolate around the edges, and that orange is REALLY orange, so it’s not for you if you aren’t ready for strong makeup!

But of course, feel free to switch out the lip color for any other bright shade you like!

It WILL work for girls with glasses, because your frames and lenses make it a lot less dramatic looking, so technically you can get away with a LOT more eye makeup, since subtle looks are not very noticeable. Just take it easy on the mascara so your lashes don’t push up against your glasses too much. (The look is so dark you won’t need big lashes anyway.)

Products used:

  • Base: Garnier Miracle Skin Perfector All-in-1 Perfecting Cream SPF 21 (testing this one out; it’s great for oilier skins!)
  • Concealer: Make Up Store Cover All Mix
  • Powder: ClearLast powder in Matte Ochre
  • Blush: NYX Cinnamon blush
  • Eye Kajal: Shahnaz Hussain Kajal (I bought this stick kajal off eBay from India. Try VDL’s Eye Bomb Mega Smoky Pencil or a kajal from Bourjois. That, or even black gel liner from a pot!)
  • 2 Dark brown shadows in one cool and one warm tone: NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Cordura
  • Mascara: Maybelline Great Lash in Blackest Black
  • Orange lipcolor: OCC Lip Tar in Beta

Last tip: If you have oily lids, pack a matte black shadow over the black portions of the lid so your kajal doesn’t smudge or crease.

4

Fresh Face: Soft colorful eyes with “POP” lips

Who says you have to wear neutrals with bright lips?

Just keep things soft and luminous, and you can get away with almost any color. 

Here, I’m demonstrating with a soft peachy beige and soft lavender on the lids. I kept the cheeks very luminous and soft (just a radiant pink tinge) and on the lips, I show 2 options that both work with the eye makeup.

Tip: 

Pairing a warmer shade (peach/beige) with a cooler one (soft violet) is a way you can make your eye makeup work with any warm or cool lip color you want.

To prove that, I’ve used 2 lip shades on opposite ends of the warm/cool spectrum!

Products used:

Base: MAC Face and Body Foundation N2

Concealer: Lancome Le Correcteur Pro concealer palette

Powder: RMK Kaleidoscope powder 02

Brows: VDL Festival Brow Pencil in Grey Brown + Canmake Coloring Brow Mascara 01

Peachy-beige shadow: Urban Decay Moonflower

Violet shadow: Urban Decay ACDC

Metallic brown pencil: Urban Decay Corrupt

Mascara: Maybelline Great Lash in Blackest Black

Soft luminous pink blush: Dior Diorsnow Fresh Cheeks 001 *Asia- and Nordstrom-exclusive

Salmon-coral lips: VDL Festival Lipstick 607 Jared

Matte bubblegum pink: L'oreal Colour Riche Matte in P501 Sakura Petal

Makeup Tools: Brushes are great, fabulous even, but I’m going to let you in on a little secret: there are so many other tools out there that can make makeup application a heck of a lot easier. Some of the things above probably seem a little out there (you’re probably thinking “why on earth do I need sticky tape and spoons for my makeup?”) BUT if you’re a beginner with makeup (or just a bit clumsy) some of these tools can completely change the way you apply your makeup.

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10

Working with Cream Shadows: A Few Tips

I don’t often work with cream shadows in my tutorials, because most of the time I want to let the shadows speak for themselves. But there are times as well when you need a cream base to really take the intensity up a notch.

Above is a very quick tutorial for a metallic silvery-minty party look, as well as lots of swatches plus a couple of before-after shots to show you how I like to layer creams and powders.

1.There are 4 types of cream shadows in general

  • Old-school creamy - MAC Cream Color Bases and elf Cream Shadow Duos are the creamy kind that don’t really set. I usually give this a miss on the lids as they will crease in 5 minutes.
  • Solid pots and sticks - Laura Mercier Caviar Sticks, Maybelline Color Tattoos, MAC Paint Pots, Make Up For Ever Aqua Creams all belong in this category. They are hard at room temperature but will melt slightly on contact. These are the most common, but also problematic because many of them dry out after awhile and become impossible to use.
  • Bouncy creams - Chanel came out with the first ones in their Illusion d'Ombre range, and then Dior had Fushion Monos which are equally beautiful in texture and color. Lancome came up with limited edition Hypnose Drama Eyes creams but the textures are a little more hit and miss. But overall, these jelly- and mousse-like textures are the latest generation cream shadows and combine smooth intensity, incredibly dimensional multi-pigmented colors AND long-wear. Even when they start to dry out, they don’t go all hard and are still usable for a long time. By far my favorite texture but they tend to only come from more expensive houses.
  • Liquids/Creams - These easy to use creams come in tubes with doe-foot applicators or squeeze tubes and many are available in drugstore ranges. They set and stay on fairly well, but the textures tend to be quite sheer once blended out, although they are also easiest to work with for beginners who want subtlety.

2. Pick complementary tones for a quick win. 

If you’re working with neutral brown toned shades, pick a brown cream shadow. If you are doing a blue-toned look, try a blue toned shadow.There are no rules, but just remember that applying cool toned shades over clashing warm toned bases and vice versa and neutralize colors and make everything look muddy or just sludgy and grey. (On the other hand, if you have a shadow that is too brassy and orange or yellow for your taste, a silvery base can help to cut the yellow-ness.)

Beige and black goes with anything so it depends whether you want a smoky look or a soft look. 

3. There are different textures/finishes. 

  • Matte and Satin - and I include beige eye primers along with this group cos they work the same way; these allow shadows to stay true to their original textures
  • Metallic/Pearl - usually the most popular and commonly available finish; these can help intensify the shine of shimmery shadows and help them look even more metallic.
  • Sparkly - a lot of the bouncy mousse-like shadows tend to be in the sparkly category where you see a ton of little flecks and sparkles when you look close. Often, the little sparkles show up through a layer of shadow, so if you want to jazz up a regular powder shadow, a sparkle shade works.

4. Play with duochrome shadows and pigments.

Often, the same color will look completely different when applied over different bases. (See the last image above; Winter Veld mica from Coastal Scents is a beige pink pigment with an icy blue shift when it hits the light.) This means you can combine different creams and powders and come up with completely different looks. 

A cheap source for duochrome shades is mineral makeup sellers online. Often, these loose pigment shadows aren’t formulated with enough or the right type of binders (it’s easier to get the formulation right with pressed shadows) and don’t stick to the lids very well, so pairing them with cream shadows is perfect. 

Ultimately, you CAN just pop a cream shadow on your lids when you have 2 minutes but I find many colors tend to look patchy and uneven on their own, and they’re really at their best as intensifiers and transformers for powder shadows.

If you’ve never tried interference pigments, go check out elf’s Eyeshadow Transformer palette and pop each of the shades over a dark cream shadow.

My favorite sources for pigments are coastalscents.com and tkbtrading.com. Not every color is great for use directly on the lids (these are almost pure color pigments and supposed to be mixed with fillers and binders), and I’d stick with the shimmers and metallics unless you’re a pro and DIY blending and formulation.

Just make sure you get the sample sizes because you can get a ton of colors for just $20. Invest in the full 1 oz packs/jars only if you’re a makeup artist and need to use truckloads of pigments on a regular basis.

6

Electric: Duochrome Violet Eye Look

This is a quick look that you can put together with any deep duochrome shadow. I used a violet-blue, but you can do pink-blue, green-brown, blue-brown, etc. 

You will also need:

  1. Black cream base
  2. A pale shadow in a contrasting tone from the duochrome color
  3. Matte black shadow
  4. Black gel liner
  5. Mascara
  6. Rosy neutral blush (I used MISSHA Prism Dot Blush 01)
  7. Nude liner (I used Make Up Store Nude Beauty)
  8. Soft pink-based nude lipstick (Dior Rouge Dior Nude 263 Swan)

I Nuovi is no longer available in many countries, so similar colors are Inglot #439 (probably the closest alternative) and #UrbanDecay Omen which is a lighter, more girly version of the color.