photoshop document


Mickey Milkovich + that one perfect side of his face [5x10]

This is an easy tutorial for beginner icon makers (extremely picture heavy, an image for every step with explicit steps!) A very similar tutorial which was what taught me how to do this (with slight tweaks you will find along the way) is HERE and all credit to the darling Cassie for creating this, honestly what a life changer! (this is just a really picture heavy version of it with some weird arrows for beginners!!)

Before we start this tutorial, things you will need to have:

  • A version of PS, I have PS6 but I think this should be similar to any version that has the timeline option
  • A timeline
  • The screencaps you want to icon in one folder (I would rec putting this folder on your desktop for ease of access!) I would also recommend splitting your screencaps either by lighting (eg extremely dark and need to use a different psd) or by location in the caps (eg, right, left, centre etc) 
  • A psd you want to use!
  • Knowledge of how to load an action into photoshop (I don’t actually go into it in this tutorial!) 
  • A sharpening action which has been loaded into photoshop.
  • I’ll be using THIS action which is not mine but works spectacularly; Action 2 from this pack in particular

The end result is something like this with minimum amount of effort but the large amount of icons you need for roleplaying your favourite fc’s! Please LIKE/REBLOG if this was helpful :)

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Guys guys, I just figured out how to extract Sims from images in like less than 5 minutes :o No selection tools, no pen tool! I know I’m late to the party and this is most likely common knowledge at this point, but I’m going to write this down anyway because there’s a 99% chance I’ll forget it.

This is written with Photoshop CS6 in mind, but I’m assuming it’ll work with any graphics editing program that supports alpha channels. The starting point for working on this was @buhudain​‘s tutorial here.

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first of all this is the first tutorial I make and English is not my native language, forgive anything. xoxo

if you like this tutorial or it help you, please, like/reblog the post. Any request or doubt just ask.  © @deanwinchsteir

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@zeepicfangirl asked about my sigil making process so here it is:

Step 1:

The first thing I do is I make a photoshop document. It doesn’t have to be photoshop, other programs like Krita and MediBangPro are free and work just as well. Then, I rephrase the intention until I’m happy with it.

Step 2:

The next thing I do is to write the intention down, circling any keywords. Then I brainstorm a couple symbols that I associate with the circled words. Those symbols I’ll use later in the process to create the shape of the sigil. Then I remove all the duplicated letters.

Step 3:

Then I lay out the shape I want using the letters I got from the previous step in a light color and make it darker as I make the lines clearer.

Step 4:

I open illustrator, you could use a program like instead. Then I set up margins and create a second version of the sigil I created in photoshop.

Step 5:

I add some embellishments and color to make the sigil feel more balanced. I try to always use colors that correspond to the meaning of the sigil.

Hope this was helpful! 

anonymous asked:

How do you make circle icons? They are so cool 😲

thank you ! (im not very good at explaining so im going to use pictures and i hope this helps!) 

 basically all i do to make them is firstly open up a 200x200 pixel  document on photoshop. i use the circle shape tool (ellipse tool) to make the background of the icon. like this:

then i open up my image and i use the circular selection tool (elliptical marquee tool) to select the part of my image i want to use, then i copy and paste it over the shape making sure it lines up:

and then i just remove the background and edit it: 

and then i save it as a .png file which keeps the background transparent. 

i hope that this was helpful, im sorry if i explained it badly !!


Camera Operations using After Effects:

After importing a PSD (Photoshop Document) as a composition into After Effects, I can add the Virtual 3D Camera to give awesome and believably realistic movements and effects.

After converting the layers into 3D, using key-frames allows me to animate specific camera functions:

  • Increasing / decreasing the aperture
  • Changing the angle of the camera

I parent the camera onto a null object labeled DOLLY to act as a moving tripod to animate camera movements with.

Here is the final result on Vimeo.

                                                  Collage Tutorial
                                           how to make these edits?

hello whoever is reading this! multiple people messaged me asking to make a tutorial for my siren!sehun (and other halloween series)-edits, so i decided to make this tutorial! it’s probably easier than it seems, so let’s start right away!

warning: this tutorial consists pictures to support the explanation! 

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Above: Batman design for an old pitch I realize now I probably never even sent in to DC. I had thought this would have been about eight years old (which is the last time I gave pitching a shot). But I remember that the concept had been heavily influenced by the recent debut of Adventure Time, and that was only six years ago. So. Never made it out of the sketchbook.

The short version of the plot is “Teen Post-Apocalyptic Batman.” The longer version is “Orphaned kid adopts the identity of ‘Nightwing’ and assembles a team of weird loners and outsiders from a strange post-apocalyptic landscape so as to free the champions of a forgotten era and end the reign of the thirteen warlords of the so-called Legion of Doom.” There y’go.

Coloring on this is a new thing I’m trying and which I’m enjoying very much, despite it possessing (probably) too many steps to really justify the end result. Way it works is:

  • I draw the original piece, pen and ink on paper (bristol, cardstock or sketchbook, I don’t discriminate).
  • Erase the pencils, scan it, and run it through Illustrator to create a flat-black line
  • Take it to Photoshop, lay in color flats beneath the linework
  • Go back to the original and color it with an assortment of Prismacolor markers, cool grey 20%, 30%, 40%, 60% and 80%
  • Scan the image again with the grayscale, lay the resulting scan into the photoshop document under the linework and flats. Set the flats to multiply so that the markers show through.
  • After that, if necessary, I have a collection of textures which I might throw over the flats and set to Soft Light or Overlay at a reduced opacity.

So the photoshop document ends up looking like:

  • Linework
  • Stock texture (soft light/overlay at 30-80% opacity)
  • Color flats (multiplied)
  • Marker colors

Among the questions you may be asking is “Jon, wouldn’t it be easier to just use colored Prismacolors and skip the flatting altogether?” Well, listen, you have no right to speak to me that way and I insist that you leave my son’s bar mitzvah immediately. But to answer your question, I could, except (1) that would be a lot of markers, (2) that would be expensive, (3) I have no place to put them, (4) I can get a wider palette using photoshop and (5) I can change the colors as I see fit by changing the flat colors. Ta-da, the post-apocalyptic world of color!

marley-v replied to your post: I really want to update my theme! And I kinda…

Will you use the plumbob tree “app” or whatever it’s called? If you add a playlist, please don’t have it autoplay!

I’ve tried using the plum tree before, and it kinda confused me lmao. But I also didn’t read any of the info of how to use it :~) Do you have a specific reason you’d prefer that as opposed to like a photoshop document or something? :)

And the playlist– yeah, see that’s my thing about it. Idk if I want one because like half the time when someone’s blog has on I immediately pause it anyways because I’m usually listening to my own music lol. But if I can find one that isn’t autoplay that might be a good middle ground. :)

DIY LED Fanboard

So few months ago I wanted to make my first LED fanboard, but searching the internet, I realised that there aren’t many tutorials on how to make a LED fanboard. I relied on one particular one, tweaking some steps to suit my needs and also taking advice from my mum (who works in the technical field). Now that I just finished making my second LED fanboard, I’d just like to share the method which I use to make LED fanboards, to help more fans like me who want to make their own LED fanboard but have no idea how to. It might not be the best method or preferred method for some but it works for me. I’ll try to make it as detailed as possible.

This fanboard that I’ll be making in this tutorial will be a fanboard for Infinite’s Sungjong, in view of the upcoming Infinite Effect concert that I’ll be attending ^^

Materials used:
- Black cardboard
- LED bulbs (5mm)
- Solder & Soldering iron
- Battery pack & batteries
- Insulated connecting wires

1. Create your design
I used Photoshop to create the design that I wanted for the fanboard.

Create a new document in photoshop according to the size of your fanboard. I wanted mine to be A3 so I set the measurements to that of A3. It is important to use a document the same size as your board as we will be printing this design out to gauge the placements of the LEDs on your board

To be able to visualise it better, I changed the background to black using New Fill Layer.

What I did was to simulate the LED bulbs using 5mm ellipses, which would allow me to see exactly how it would look like on an A3 board. I set the fill colour to white, with no stroke.

Using those circles, I moved them around and formed my design like so.

If you want to see how different LED colours would look like on the board, you can change the colours of certain parts by selecting the layers and changing the fill colour of the ellipses.

Save as adobe PDF for printing (I inverted the colour of the document so I won’t have to waste ink printing the black background). Remember to print exact size.

2. Plan your wiring

After you’ve printed out your design, you’ll need to draft out how you want the electricity to flow.

Firstly, you need to know how many volts your LED needs. This part might get a little Physics-y. White LEDs usually use 3V and yellow usually use 2V. (Please also double check this with the shop where you buy the LEDs from) Using this information, I decided on a 6V power source i.e. 4 AA batteries of 1.5V each. With a 6V source, I’d need to connect the white LEDs in twos (3V x 2 = 6V) and yellow LEDs in threes (2V x 3 = 6V). Meaning, there will be either 2 white LEDs or 3 yellow LEDs in each series. These series will then be connected together in parallel. (See illustration for visualisation)

You’d need to group the bulbs and if needed, add “secret bulbs”, meaning bulbs that you connect in a group but it doesn’t show up on the front side. The purpose of secret bulbs is to complete the amount of bulbs needed for a series, so you’d have to tape these secret bulbs using opaque tape or cover them up somehow so they don’t show. For this fanboard, the amount of bulbs I used were just nice, so I didn’t have to use any secret bulbs.

Work out the direction of the electricity flow as well as how you want to connect the groups together in parallel. Remember to do this on the inverted print out of the design as you’d need this when you solder the bulbs later on. When you solder the bulbs, you’d be looking at the back side of the board so this will be easier to refer to.

3. Plan direction of the bulbs

On the right side up of the design (this is a different sheet of paper from the inverted print-out), mark out the groups. 

Following your wiring plan, mark out the directions and poles of the LEDs. This will make soldering a lot easier if you position the LED ends correctly.

4. Poke holes in the board and insert LEDs

Firstly, tape the front side of the design to your board. Make sure it doesn’t move, or it will affect the design.

I used this tool right here to poke the holes. The width of the pins on this tool is around the same as the diameter of the bulbs (aka 5mm).

Following the direction lines I drew earlier, I poked holes for each LED.

Remove the design paper and following the electrical pole directions (+ve and -ve), put the LEDs in through the holes you’ve made.

5. Soldering

Technically the core of the fanboard making process.

Solder the closer ends together first. It’s optional to mark out the poles here but it makes it much easier to connect the wires later. 

This is after soldering the closer ends together. For those that are too far away to connect using just the LED ends itself, you’d need to connect them using wires.

After soldering the connecting wires~ The red wires are the positive points and the black ones are the negative ones.

Lastly, solder on the battery pack. I cut a small square at the front to accommodate the switch.

6. Sealing up

I taped the battery pack down using double sided tape and normal tape. Then I cut a square on the back and attached it to the front piece of board.

Finished Product

My previous project (VIXX N’s fanboard):

Hope this was useful for you guys, feel free to ask me any questions if you’re unsure!

* Determination.

No ask compilation today, but we do have another comic page going up, as scheduled!

Behind the scenes, we’ve had many various fire-drills that threatened to delayed comic updates (work emergencies, school commitments, traveling, sickness, etc), but this last weekend may actually take the cake pie.

Last Wednesday, Nacho’s internet was abruptly disconnected, due to a “one in a million” faux pas on the provider’s end. We were already running slightly behind schedule but this unprecedented blocker threw us for a loop. Without internet, communication between Nacho, Ellipsis, and I was severely limited. Sending the comic page back to me required ridiculous effort, moving the huge photoshop document to her phone and uploading through Google Drive (which, for some reason, did NOT want to cooperate that day). But our struggles were not futile: through a mixture of obscenities and encouragement, the page made it to my computer, where I was able to quickly wrap it up and schedule it, right in the nick of time!

In the end, the only drawback is that we were not able to roundup asks for the compilations that we usually do between pages. You guys sent in some great ones, so rest assured we will be publishing them eventually, probably when we are operating with all hands on deck again. ^^; Nacho’s internet is STILL dead but hopefully she’ll be back online sometime tomorrow. At least we were able to finish up more coffee art (and kicked off the highly anticipated nsfw blog) despite bad luck getting in the way.

There may be a day when we have to delay an update or take a hiatus, but by god, that day is not today.

anonymous asked:

would yo make a tutorial on how you did the text on this graphic :) /post/132224671902/sam-winchester-graphic-challenge

It’s been a long time since I made the first one (sorry for the two-month wait), so this is an approximation of what I did. I think it’s easy as long as you have an understanding of how layers and frames work. (If you don’t, I’ve tried to make it as simple as possible.) I made it really quick to balance the first gif. [Original.] Here, I’ve remade it. 

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because of all of the hype over doctor who from comic con i feel kinda motivated to come out of hibernation & make a comic!

opening up photoshop!!

a new document?? dont mind if i do!


wait fukcc i left my tablet upstairs

lets think about this

okay here i go

ok sure


So this one’s been requested many times, and I thought the best way to answer everyone would be to make a tutorial. I know the struggle with icons, especially with indie RP’ers - we’ve all been through that stage of icon making on PS or Paint! Anyways, here’s just a quick & easy little tutorial with a photo guide for beginners. This is what’ll be the end product:

But you can totally change the symbol to your own liking, like my own:

I’m using Mac + Photoshop CS6 Extended for this tutorial, but the tools are pretty much the same for any other version. Please like or reblog if you thought this was helpful & happy iconing! Xxx

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anonymous asked:

How do you make your manips so good? Whenever I try to make a character transparent, they're not as smooth-looking as yours. What's your secret?

Refer to this post X

Top-left GIF: After Effects | Method 1

Top-right GIF: Photoshop and After Effects | Method 2

Middle GIF: Photoshop and After Effects | Method 2

Bottom-left GIF: After Effects | Method 1

Bottom-right GIF: After Effects | Method 1

Frame-rates (fps):

Before starting any edits on After Effects I have to make sure the composition has a frame-rate close to the original video. For example, the How to Train Your Dragon footage of Hiccup i used has the frame-rate of 23.959 per second (23.959 fps); therefore, I set the frame-rate in After Effects to a frame-rate close to that. In this case I chose 23.976 fps (24 fps is also good). You must choose a frame-rate your program can render or else it will round off to a different frame-rate, so in other words, do not type down a custom frame-rate, just choose one your program has offered. 

Choosing a frame-rate far off of the video’s frame-rate will result in duplicate frames when creating the GIF. It may not be much of a problem but some people might notice the stuttering effect in the GIF. When you create a manip you are combining two videos together, so if two of the videos contain stutters in random areas then it will not appear right and the GIF will look odd. Another note to add is that the keyframes added in the video will also not sync with the footage.

This is a GIF I uploaded in 29.97 frames per second.

Pay attention to Rapunzel as in some frames she does not move. Even though it’s happening, Hiccup is moving in the frames she is not moving in. You can also see an error that occurs in the 4th frame with the outline of Rapunzel’s hair, an example of the keyframes not matching up.

NOTE: If the original video contains duplicate frames then you should remove the frame using Photoshop or After Effects.

METHOD 1 - After Effects & Pen Tool

In this method I used the Pen Tool (G). In the top-left GIF, I used the pen to draw around Rapunzel. If you’re familiar with vectors and handles in Illustrator then this will make more sense to you. 

At the bottom-right of the screen you can see some diamonds, which represent a keyframe. For every keyframes I had to draw around Rapunzel that many times. As you can see not all of the keyframes are in every frame. If I did do every single frame then not only would it waste time, but it would also make the manip appear “choppy”. The spaces between the keyframes are like tweens in animation, so the movement of the mask around Rapunzel will be smooth.

^This would be the result if all frames were done with no tweens.

^This would be the result if not all frames were done. The areas where the most movement occurs determines if a keyframe should be added, in this case it is Rapunzel’s hand.

METHOD 2 - Photoshop & Background Eraser Tool

I only use this method for things with complicated shapes such as Merida’s hair or Hiccup’s hair. The Background Eraser Tool (E) is used whenever a character is in a background where it heavily contrasts with the character. Refer to the top-right GIF where Hiccup is the one being edited into Tangled. In the original footage Hiccup is in front of a waterfall where it is mainly white and grey, it contrasts with Hiccup’s dark brown hair so therefore the Background Eraser Tool can be easily used.

But it’s not as simple as that, eventually I found a trick to make it smooth when creating the manip. Instead of erasing the background in every frame where the colours of the background constantly change, I added a colour palette around the character.

Ignoring the text, the colours are merged with every frame in Photoshop. This may take a while to prepare but it will save you many hours of work and the manip won’t look “fuzzy”. The colours are selected by the Eye Dropper Tool (I) and then created into a shape. The shape of the colour is merged to the frame of Hiccup. Then the Background Eraser Tool is used on the selected colours to see if it works. So basically creating the colour palette is just by using trial-and-error.

After doing this step the colours are then erased in a particular order, that order must always be followed in every other frame. This method is more effective because in every frame, the Background Eraser Tool will remove the same colours so therefore it is consistent. Whereas by not adding the colour palette as a guide for your eraser, it will remove different colours in every frame. The tolerance and limits are always varying, choose the ones that suit your needs.

^Without using the colour palette.

^Using the colour palette. 

NOTE: The green background is a separate layer, so it does not interfere when I add it to After Effects. 

After erasing the background in all frames, the file is then saved as a Photoshop Document (.PSD) and then it is import into After Effects to merge it with the video; In this case it would be the lantern scene of Tangled. Extra filters and masking is done to polish the final product.


1. Always keep the frame-rates as close to the original as possible in After Effects.

2. When creating masks, add keyframes to frames where a lot of movement is present. Leave gaps to create tweens if those frames don’t need a keyframe. This will save a lot of time.

3. Create a colour palette and merge it into each frame before erasing the background of the frames.