what really stood out were the colors: orange outerwear in a heavy, upholstery-type fabric, as well intarsia sweaters and graphic color-blocked dresses in pink, purple, green and yellow. As for prints, [Raf] Simons looked to the works of Russian artist Serge Poliakoff, reinterpreting his heavy brushstrokes on beautiful silk faille dresses.
Contrast, elongated lines and masculine-feminine variety — add them up and you have Maison Martin Margiela’s pre-fall collection. The layered coats and jackets were often sliced, or with a trompe l’oeil effect for capelike looks. Blocks of shaved rabbit fur and flannel turned a jacket sharp and graphic, while nappa leather suits took on a slouchy, men’s pajama feel. There were also some references to Margiela’s past collections, i.e. pleated polyester skirts cut on the bias and dresses with leather sleeves.
Phoebe Philo’s pre-fall collection for Celine focused on boyish looks and men’s wear fabrics, with a nod to Mod. She made a strong tailoring statement by way of boxy jackets and trenchcoats, some with contrasting riding-coat collars, as well as sleek cigarette pants and buttoned-up shirts with small collars. Patchworks of Japanese denim, loden and military felt added textural interest to the lineup.