Peter Saville and Nick Knight’s “Soft Furnishings: The Erotic House of Peter Saville” an editorial story for Wallpaper* Magazine and their July 2009 Sex Issue. Features models Mariacarla Boscono & Alana Zimmer.
Green Coat, Naomi Campbell for Yohji Yamamoto, 1987
The relevant thing about the shoot was
the timing. It was ‘87 and there was a notion in the air that the
fantasy and wonder of couture was returning. Yohji had done something
very sculptural and I suggested to Nick that he consider the clothes in
terms of their shape and form, rather than just as garments. In order to
get the image of this form, Nick encouraged Naomi to move for him. It’s
that particular moment of movement during the shoot that was the
founding principle of SHOWstudio. During the many discussions that Nick
and I had in the nineties about motion imagery in fashion, we always
referenced the images from this shoot and his endeavour to fully
communicate the spirit of the garment. - Peter Saville, Art Director and Graphic Designer
The male rebel or outsider is a character that appears time and time again in fashion imagery - that’s why so many designers and image-makers have Nick Knight’s ‘Skinhead’ on their book shelf as a reference. It’s the same reason Larry Clark’s 'Kids’ is a constant inspiration. There’s something about the sense of insouciance, authenticity and freedom that is characterised by the ’bad boy’, to use a cliché, that appeals to makers and designers. I explored this in January 2016 when curating Mad About The Boy, an exhibition that considered fashion’s obsession with the teenage male and the different way the boy is presented in select images and collections. The show featured a sound piece where different men talked about their upbringing and their idea of youth. Charlie Porter, David Sims, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Dylan Jones, Glen Luchford, Peter Saville, Alex Bilmes, Nasir Mazhar and Ben Kirchhoff all took part, as did Nick. Speaking of the Skinhead series he said, ‘I guess I wanted to protest or rebel against the liberal upbringing I had - whatever upbringing you’ve had you always want to rebel against it.’ He also mentioned that it was about, ‘Rights of passage - finding out who you are. Putting yourself in situations you’re not comfortable with.’ I was most struck by his musings on why people are attracted to being an outsider, as well as images of outsiders - ‘There’s also an element of class tourism to it - the middle classes in Britain tend to want to be anything other than middle class.’ You can hear more in the Mad About The Boy series on SHOWstudio. - Lou Stoppard, SHOWstudio Editor-at-Large
Serial killer Peter Sutcliffe with serial rapist and child molester, Jimmy Savile. Savile was a popular TV presenter who presented shows such as “Jim’ll Fix It” - A show were he was told of children’s wishes, and was challenged to grant them. It was only after his death that suspicions arose about his behaviour. 60 people, including hospital staff and patients, stated that they had been sexually abused by Savile, with their ages ranging from 5 to 75. One staff member witnessed him having sex with a child who was on life-support. Sutcliffe, who bludgeoned and stabbed at least 13 young women in Yorkshire, remained good friends with the deranged paedophile until his death in 2011.