paper garments

BSD Tanabata Twitter special: Atsushi and Akutagawa parts

I thought I’d translate the dialogues featuring Atsushi and Aku (since they’re my faves) that were posted on BSD official Twitter in honor of Tanabata in Japan.

Mori: Akutagawa-kun, what a lucky coincidence seeing you here! I have a reward for you. Would you do me a favor in turn?

Akutagawa: I don’t need any rewards. The only thing I’m interested in is eliminating the enemy. Give me an order and I’ll do it.

Mori: What? An enemy? No, no, that’s not it at all! I only need you to go buy something for me.

Akutagawa: ……….. ?

Atsushi: Kyouka-chan, Naomi-san has asked me to do some errands, would you like to come with me?

Kyouka: Errands? A mission, you mean?

Atsushi: Ahaha, no, it’s not for work. Today is Tanabata and everyone will be having somen noodles for lunch, so we need to get ingredients.

Kyouka: Got it.

(the rest under the cut for length)

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I made a white sweater (out of a thrifted stained sweater) last night for the new Moncchichi hybrid. I wanted her to look 80’s, but I don’t think I quite nailed it yet. Her pants are pleated and tucked into her socks though 😂

Left girl is a thrifted Bebicchichi head on a Prettie Girls Tween Scene body. Right is a thrifted Moncchichi head on an Endless Hair Kingdom 18" Barbie body.

I made the sweater pattern by tracing an older Barbie top. There are lots of great tutorials already out there on how to do this, and it’s definitely an easy way to make a template you already know will fit.

Below I marked the center line on the garment and on paper, pinned garment down, poked a dotted line along the seams using pins, took the garment off, connected the dots with pencil, and added a 1/8" seam allowance around it.

Using a T-shirt to Make Patterns

Using a standard unisex T-shirt that is about one-two sized larger than your size can be used as a base for another way to drape darts or move the excess fabric into different styles. This is a method that can be done using a model form or on your own body!! (I do recommend if you are wearing the t-shirt to have the undergarment on that you will be wearing with the cosplay.) Helps to get a more accurate fit! First I will start by showing how to make standard double-ended darts using a T-shirt. Using this same technique you can make many types of darts.

Materials:

Standard unisex shirt in a size one-two sizes larger, sewing pins/safety pins, marker/tailors chalk, large piece of paper, scissors, pencil, ruler

^ 1. You want to work both sides at the same time. taking in a little on each side as you go. Don’t make it too tight, the excess fabric around the waist will be used to make darts (or seams).

^ 2. Taking the excess fabric, pinch equally at the placement of your darts/seams.

^ 3. Front darts are meant to tighten the excess fabric, there are many ways to utilize them.  They end about 1/4”- 1/2” down from the bust point (unless you want Madonna points). Darts leading down past the waist end at the hip, typically about 3”-4” past the waistline.

^ 4. Repeat process for back. Back darts work similar to front, top ends point to the largest part of the chest, and the bottom ends are about 3-4” from the waist

^ 5. Once all pins are in place, use tailors chalk or a marker to draw over the newly made sections, marking each side of the darts, and at each side of your new side seams.  Make notes for all markers like waist line along the sides and at each side of your dart, bust point, ends of darts top and bottom.

^ 6. While wearing the t-shirt, draw your neckline and armholes.  Be sure to mark for matching up front and back at shoulder seams and at the side seams.

^ 7. Now you are ready to transfer to paper! Carefully take the garment off, trying to keep all pins attached, it is okay if you lose some in the process. I like to go through and re mark on front and back with a sharpie the: bust point, dart points, waist at front and back sides as well as at each side of your dart, where the front and back pieces at the shoulder and under the arm. You only need half of the front and half of the back to complete the pattern.

Now you are ready to remove the pins, SEE second picture. Once pins have been removed, make a long line down the center front and center back. Label which side is front and which is back.

^ 8. Cut the shirt apart at the side seams following the lines you drew, and at the shoulders along the t-shirt’s seam line. Trace around the pieces, transfer all your marks and notes. After you have the outer edges, transfer the four dart points you marked: top, bottom, and at the waist on each side of the excess of the fabric. This will create your dart.

^ 9. Create your sewing guide lines, connecting the four points of the dart.  This will make a diamond shape.

^ 10. Finishing touches!!  Add seam allowance to all of your edges.  For this example, the front is on a fold a center front, which doesn’t need any seam allowance.  Back will have a zipper, which needs a larger amount of seam allowance. I highly suggest making a mock up with your new pattern pieces to test fit for any adjustments.

Whoo!!  This turned out longer than I thought it would, hope it makes sense and helps out. Happy Patterning and Sewing!!!

Article from The West Australian, 24 December 1929

 WOMEN’S  INTERESTS  DRESS  AND  FASHION. 

The  secret of preparing a successful holiday wardrobe is to buy discriminately, and not to let clothes run away with one. Generally, one’s clothes depend on the line of one’s activities; the sports girl will look out for appropriate sports kit, while the ardent bather will concentrate on beach clothes. So long as  one looks suitably garbed, quantities of clothes are by no means essential.Too many are as often as not an  encumbrance rather  than an advantage. A good selection of what a year or so ago were called ‘tub’ frocks is ideal. For inexpensiveness, nothing can beat little cotton  voile  dresses They pack well, and the most fastidious soul could not demand  anything fresher or more suitable in appearance. Linen is mother useful  holiday material, since silks,  other than the artificial and cotton mixed variety, in plain colours and discreetly striped at that, look too 'towny’ for the seaside  Besides crepe de chines, chiffons and satin are bad style. Shantung, a fabric with  delightful laundering qualities, is in excellent material for the fashioning of a long, unlined overcoat, which supplies just that required amount of extra warmth to have arms when the sun goes down. Bathing suits, quite reasonable in price are obtainable in all colours in a specially woven wool stockinette which neither stretches nor sags after immersion in the  water. A cretonne, linen or Turkish  towelling coat or wrap, the latter most brilliantly patterned, is the correct  finish. Those who intend spending their holiday on the beach can provide themselves with a dazzling quantity of changes at small cost, and alluring accessories to match are by no means exorbitantly priced. The manufacturers have catered very comprehensively for the girl with small means. The enormous beach hats that were worn originally at Deauville are becoming quite popular at Cottesloe this season, and are very sensible’ and attractive. 

Seaside  Evening  Dress. 

One always looks forward to a few dances during the holidays. Seaside evening dress is nothing like so formal as that worn in town, and the girl who economises on her day frocks to achieve an elaborate evening toilette is making a great mistake. An evening frock should be worn, by all means, but nothing extreme. Coarse lace, simply made, and patterned chiffon, are excellent materials for holiday dance frocks. Careful packing is essential, even in the excellently designed modern suitcases. Few materials, even  those that are guaranteed uncrushable, shake out without a fold, unless one is extremely generous with layers of tissue paper for each garment. This is a real preventive, and the only sure one as far as I have discovered, against bedraggled luggage. 

Race  Frocks. 

Those who are not going away for their Christmas holidays are thinking of race frocks, particularly for the Perth Cup. Printed chiffon and lace ensembles are to be the smartest thing, and they will  be  accompanied  by wide and drooping hats and sunshades, which are extravagant trifles as alluring as a fan is with an evening  gown. Large posies are ubiquitous, and are an extremely becoming finish to the fashionable collarless neck line. A well-known young society girl has chosen  delicately patterned white and rose chiffon.The frock is made with a semi fitting bodice and  a full circular skirt set into a tight  hip yoke which fastens in front with a floppy bow. The unlined three-quarter coat is bordered with light  fox as are the sleeves, and the neck  line is finished with a scarf collar which  encircles the throat and ties in a bow behind, to match the one on the frock.This ensemble also has its  matching parasol, beautifully shirred, and the crinoline straw hat to be worn with it is trimmed with pink grosgrain ribbons, finishing in bows under the brim. A young  matron  has chosen a delightful cerise and black patterned chiffon, fashioned with an amusing flared cape, set in from the deep yoke.This will be cleverly manipulated by its wearer  and  dispenses with the necessity for a coat. 

Frock  and  Accessories

Another suitable rare toilette comprises a bottle-green and white printed crepe de chine frock, made with a bunch of flat pleats on one side, and a straight bottle green coat, fashioned with a short cape and lined with printed crepe to match.This ensemble was worn with court shoes of bottle green, kid and suede and a matching handbag. Distinguishing accessories of this description are the proper finish to these plainer outfits. Another exquisite ensemble was seen of rose and beige patterned georgette, and plain beige satin georgette.The frock was simply made with three rows of  frills on the bodice and six half-way down the skirt, and was worn beneath a coat of satin georgette  made collarless and with semi-fitting sleeves, but was allowed a touch of frivolity in the quaint bow which was inlet into the yoke at the back. Two loose ends fell from this to the hem. With this toilette, was worn a small beige hat, encircled round the  crown with varnished quills. 

Glittering  Hair

'A Russian Princess in Paris, forced by the war to turn mannequin, does her work extremely well and thoroughly, writes the French correspondent of a London paper. 'The other evening, when she was dressed in all nastintuim shades with jewellery to tone, she carried out the colour scheme so completely that she had her hair coated with glittering  gold dust. She wore one of the new slinky evening gowns  which mould the figure almost to the knee line and there break out into a fussy hem.The material of the dress  was printed georgette, which showed blur red brown, red brown and orange design on a deep cream ground. Drawn lightly over this gown was a short evening coat in red brown panne, which had a shaped hem and wide cuffs of red fox but not a touch of fur on the collar- The sleeves were tight to just below the elbow, but from that down they assumed a leg-o-mutton outline. She wore an exquisite neck lace of gold filigree encrusted with topaz stones, matt white face Powder, carnation  lipstick, and the gilded hair already mentioned!' 

A  group of race frocks are sketched above. The  girl in the left-hand corner is wearing a frock of ecru lace; finished with a cape-like bertha collar of ninon. Her hat is of black silk straw edged with tulle. Printed chiffon in tones of lemon, orange and green is worn by the figure with the sun shade. Banana, a new shade of beige, lace inlet with georgette is used for the gown on the other centre figure. Georgette in tones of mauve and pink makes the pleated figure’s dress, while her hat is of fine black straw with an eye-veil of flesh tulle. Some hats this summer compromise between caps and crinolines by having close-fitting crowns and transparent brims.The hat worn by the girl in printed satin on the extreme right of the sketch is of black felt and black crinoline. It has two camellias, one of rose kid and the other of black felt placed over and under the brim. 

Mauricio Velasquez Posada’s Paper Garments

((Okay, this is where I say that sometimes, origami fashion is pretty ridiculous. Also, the model in the snapology-inspired outfit looks so uncomfortable–actually most of them look uncomfortable.))

The Old Year, John Clare

The Old Year’s gone away
  To nothingness and night:
We cannot find him all the day
  Nor hear him in the night:
He left no footstep, mark or place
  In either shade or sun:
The last year he’d a neighbour’s face,
  In this he’s known by none.

All nothing everywhere:
  Mists we on mornings see
Have more of substance when they’re here
  And more of form than he.
He was a friend by every fire,
  In every cot and hall—
A guest to every heart’s desire,
  And now he’s nought at all.

Old papers thrown away,
  Old garments cast aside,
The talk of yesterday,
  Are things identified;
But time once torn away
  No voices can recall:
The eve of New Year’s Day
  Left the Old Year lost to all.