Camped at The Pit the past 3 nights, climbed at the gorge the first day. Climbed Santana .11c, this friggin awesome route you have to start from a wooden platform just about the Owens River. So rad! Second day was Pine Creek Canyon again. Worked Atomic Gecko .12b, absolutely the most fun condensed hard route so far. Gorgeous couple of days.

Owens River Gorge

The Owens Valley, and Owens River Gorge in particular, brings back many memories: Schat’s Bakkery, Matt Stevens eating a scab from his head, climbing with my dad, Eric’s endless attempts and then send of some V4 and his truck lights going out while driving at night, having to put up with Camie’s nonstop Phish, watching Patrick crush some fun boulder problems at the Buttermilks, and on and on. It’s a special place. And for the second time Michy and I get to be here together! Michy had a great day yesterday; she onsighted three 5.10c’s, two 11b’s, and TR onsighted the notoriously pumpy 5.11d, From Chocolate to Morphine.She celebrated her amazing day with a fun long board session down the Gorge Road.

And the day got even better. I onsighted my first 5.13a! It was called Aura and climbed a steep headwall that culminated with a long lunge to a finishing jug. I also got another 13a second try named Yellow Streak. All the routes here are incredibly long too. I don’t think we did any routes shorter than 30m and many were at the limit of our 70m rope!


This Memorial day weekend Genny, myself, Arash and Louise decided to head up to Owen’s river gorge in Bishop, CA. It was three nights of fun, music, laughing, unexpected run ins with rangers, food, hiking, stinging nettles, chats about poop and of course climbing. I was very stoked to be able to share the holiday weekend with such great people and enjoy perfect temps. at the Gorge. The highlight of the climbing portion of the trip was the time we spent at the El Dorado roof area. The routes here range from 5.11+ to 5.12+, mostly consisting of powerful movement on over-hung in-cut terraces. The holds on the climbs we tried consisted of a good mix of jugs, crimps and surprisingly a lot of cracks - at one point I found myself using ring locks an hand jams predominantly (on a sport climb, crazy)! It was sad to return back to civilization but it was great to look back on this memorable Memorial day!