overlay images

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Prepping your print from file to finish:

I always hear people complaining about how much better the piece looked digitally, SO, here is a run down on how to get prints that look more like your original piece.

First of all, every printer is different.  Every paper is different.  Make sure you take the time to do test prints and become familiar with how your printer and paper combo work, as you’ll rarely nail a print your first try.  This one took about 5 test prints before I was confident to print on the expensive large paper Every time I mess up on a print, I save the remaining paper to use as scraps for test prints.

As you can see, the original piece looks very nice!  The focus is super strongly on the tiger, and all of the vibrant colors are still super evident in the background.  That said, when I print it as is, everything about 85% gray or darker turns BLACK.  And this is high quality paper designed to get accurate vibrant colors, too.

The best way to fix this is to do layer effects.  Brightness/contrast is my favorite, as a typical piece will generally print about 5x better if you up the brightness to around 15-25, and adjust the contrast up or down by 5-10 points.  That said, if you have a HIGH contrast piece (Darks against brights) like this one, you typically need to do a few more steps.

Often I’ll do a second brightness/contrast adjustment layer and push brightness to an obnoxious level so the darkest darks are closer to a mid-dark range.  From there, I’ll create a mask and use a transparent gradient tool to slowly pull back the brightness on all of the lighter areas of the image.

Additionally, due to printers using CMYK and your screen being RBG certain colors just physically CANNOT print.  Some people will always work in CMYK because of this, but honestly I like my saturated colors and most of my work is intended to be seen digitally so I only ever work in RGB.  Photoshop has a nifty toggle (Ctrl + Y) where you can toggle between CMYK and RGB view to see how your piece will appear when it prints.  It’s useful to check this because if you worked in a color that cannot replicate in print, you may want to shift it entirely before you even bother printing.

Artwork tends to desaturate a bit as it prints, so I’ll often make a Hue/saturation layer to play with, too.  In this case the image was already pretty damn saturated, BUT some of the shadows on the tiger were printing more brown than orange, so I adjusted the saturation a bit to keep them vibrant with the rest of the image.
**DO NOT use “Lightness” to lighten your image!  It basically adds a white overlay to your image.  Always use Brightness, instead.

After all of that, I have a final print that much more closely captures the essence of the original painting.  I could have tinkered even more, but to me the goal is a good print rather than an exact copy. 

For ULTRA high contrast images, like a dark room looking out into a snowy exterior, expect to do a LOT of adjustment to get it to print correctly.  Printers just aren’t too fond of super darks right up against super lights.

I could make a proper tutorial on this if people request it.  Mostly, just wanted to put my thoughts down in one spot!

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| | GIF TEXTURES FOR YOU TO USE IN YOUR EDITS, PART 2! | |
(PART ONE)

Hi friends! All of these textures are ones that I have personally gif’d and then edited from free resource videos. You are welcome to use any and all of them! No credit is necessary, but if you do save one of these, please like and/or reblog this post so that others can see them! Following me is always super appreciated, as I love friends and I will also be posting more graphic resources that you might be interested in!

I recommend applying these in Screen, Lighten, or one of the other “Lighter Color” options in Photoshop. That way, you get the white dots and such without the black background overlayed onto your image like this.

For those who are new to this, here is a tutorial (not mine) on combining gifs with another image!

Please do not delete / cut + repost this caption, these take quite a while to make and edit! I appreciate it, have fun!! Feel free to link me to your creations!

Current Favorite Tools Available in the Clip Database

I’ve had people ask what tools I use in Clip Studio Paint, which is hard for me to answer because I use a lot of different brushes. (If you want to know what’s used on a specific image, please give me the post’s ID number and I’ll find it on my blog and tell you!)

Here are some of my current favorite tools and brushes. I will give you the name that they are listed under so that you can find them in the clip database as well. These are listed in no particular order, because they’re all great!

Tマーカー風ブラシセット
This is a collection of fantastic tools to create work that looks like it’s a traditional marker piece.

The collection contains several different tools including brushes with chisel or brush tips, blenders, and a texture you can overlay on your image to achieve the grain effect you see in traditional, scanned image. The texture is even pre-set to have the correct blending type and opacity!

For extra fun, I suggest using colour swatches from your favorite art markers in conjunction with these tools, for even more authenticity.

Overall this set is AMAZING and I love just playing with it.

カサGペン
I’ve been using these pen tools a lot lately for sketching and sketch style ‘inks’. I’m not sure if they’re intended to mimic any specific type of pen, but they’re fun to use and the line quality they produce is really nice. “エッジ鉛筆“ in particular is one of my current favorites!

水彩マーカー●▲■とテクスチャーセット
Created by the same person who made the fantastic marker brush set, they’ve also created an amazing watercolour set! Like the marker set, it comes with several tools with different looks and effects and overlays you can put over your image (I use the ‘pigment pooling’ texture from this set a lot). There are also blenders in this as well.

My favorite feature of this set and what makes it rank higher than other, similar watercolour sets is the colour blending effect. These brushes can use a single colour, or it can use both your main and sub colour, showing one colour when you press lightly and another when you put more pressure. This allows for some great depth of colour and more natural flow to the blending. Fantastic!



There’s more, but these are the things I’ve been using the most lately. I highly recommend checking out the stuff in the Clip database, you might find something you love.

how to make artsy geometric aesthetic thingies

today imma show u guys how to make these kinds of backgrounds

okay so ur gonna need two apps for this: Pixlr and Toolwiz (i provided the links there, well for android users anyway, sry if ur on something else)

imma put this on a read more bc this is gonna be kind of long and I’m a Mess

Keep reading

For those who are wondering what editing program do I use:

1. When I first opened this blog I used Photofy app lot. But after lots of updates It’s no longer useful for me.

2. Nowadays I discovered VSCO. The app very easy to use and has amazing filters.

3. I’m using Adobe Photoshop for years and I made most of the lockscreens using it and I think every PC needs a program like this. But, it’s a big program and I have to admit It isn’t so easy. But if you start to use, I’m sure you won’t regret it.

4. If you don’t wanna use a big program like Adobe Photoshop I highly recommend PicsArt app. The app has many features like editing tools, filters, effects, stickers, image overlays, collage maker, drawing and painting tools with layers. 

5.  I also recommend Pixlr Photo Editor, It’s so easy to use. I just don’t like filters but after some updates they will add more.

6. Lastly, my friend uses Typorama app, I saw his photos and they were pretty good. I never used it because the app only available on İTunes but if you have an İPhone you should give a try.