When I bought this car in 2014, it didn’t take long before I spent every last dime on every bolt-on modification you could think of. I had no furniture in my apartment other than a bed, but I had a full Fujitsubo exhaust (including header), oil cooler, oil catch, pulleys, radiator, full braces, and the list goes on and on. I had fun in this car but not as much as the GC8 before it. In a lot of ways, I made incredible compromises for this car and to dump the money into it that I did was foolish. That’s what we do this for, right? This is a game of fools as we pursue anything and everything just to make our hearts smile. I miss Saori sometimes. I really do. However, I’m happy with where I’m going and new projects ahead.
The Panda. The Hachi-Roku. The King of Drift. The Toyota Corolla AE86 Sprinter Trueno. This Japanese beauty was named AE86 not because it was produced in 1986, that was a simple coincidence. The “A” stands for the 4A engine that was placed into each Toyota, the “E” meaning Corolla, “8” being the fifth generation (E80 series), and the “6” representing the sixth variation in its generation.
This particular specimen belongs to Sato Hirokazu, who was inspired by drifting legend Keiichi Tsuchiya when he saw his page in a motorsports magazine. Since this moment in his life, he has owned four AE86s, with this particular one being an ongoing project of his for 14 years. This 86 has a Levin conversion and he aspires to acquire some TRD Works overfenders for the front-end.
Some of Hirokazu’s parts and mods include “…a 4A-GE with a full overhaul, FUJITSUBO exhaust manifold, YOSHIMURA muffler, NAGAI DENSHI MDI, WAKO coil, NGK spark plugs, SARD fuel pump, APEXi s-AFC, Hot InaZuma, APEXi intake, KOYO radiator, FC3S oil cooler, and NISMO fuel regulator.” Exteriors claim “OEM kouki Levin front-end, OEM kouki Levin tail lights, OEM zenki front spoiler, OEM side skirts, OEM “double-stacked” rear bumper, UKIYA SYOUKAI fiberglass hood, EC Works Group-A Mirrors, Run Free eyelines, and a BMW M-series rear spoiler.”
Being a huge fan of Pandas, I couldn’t refuse posting this bad boy. Thanks to StanceNation.com for the amazing article. Be sure to check them out in the source. You’re sure to see many more AE86 posts from me… Here is a full list of modifications:
Wheels/Tires/Suspension: SSR LONGCHAMP XR-4 14×8-12 (F) 14×8.5-19 ® + Center Caps DUNLOP DZ101 185/55-14 (F&R) GT-WORKS Coilovers 8k(F) 6k® with helper springs Front: CUSCO Upper Mount GX71 Stabilizer & Short link JUBIRIDE Negative Camber Adapter Adjustable Tension Rods TRD Bushings Rear: GT-V Stabilizer & Angle Correction Links Adjustable Lateral Rod + Reinforcement Bar TRD Bushings Slotted Rotors
Exterior: OEM KOUKI LEVIN FACE KOUKI LEVIN TAIL LAMPS OEM ZENKI Front Spoiler OEM Side Skirts BMW M-series Rear Spoiler OEM Double-Stacked Rear Bumper UKIYA SYOUKAI glass fiber bonnet Aero Catch Pulled Fenders EC Works Group A Mirrors Run Free Eyeline
Interior: BRIDE ZETA II TAKATA Harnesses MOMO DRIFTING Steering Wheel CUSCO 7-point Roll Cage Auto Meter Tachometer OMORI Meter Water Temperature Gauge OMORI Meter Oil Temperature Gauge OMORI Meter Oil Pressure Gauge OMORI Meter Vacuum Gauge Garage Tiara Shift knob E-brake Knob Checkered Flag Floor Mats MOONEYES Dash Mat SK Engineering High Speed Meter
Audio: ALPINE Head Unit DVD Player CD Player MD Player TV Tuner 2-way Speakers Crossover Network 10” Subwoofers Power Amplifier Television Monitors ×3 Door and Interior Sound Deadening
Ford Extends Shelby GT350 & GT350R Mustang Availability
Ford Motor Company has announced that the Shelby GT350 and Shelby GT350R Mustang will continue for 2018, available in showrooms this fall. The new models will be unchanged from the 2017 versions, with the exception of three new exterior color choices, Orange Fury, Kona Blue and Lead Foot Gray.
Standard equipment carrying over to the 2018 Shelby GT350 and GT350R Mustang includes the 5.2-liter V8 FPC engine which produces 526 horsepower & 429 lb.-ft. of torque, as well as engine oil, transmission & differential coolers to keep the car properly cooled on the track. In addition, a no-compromise braking system with vented 15.5-inch two-piece front rotors and six-piston Brembo calipers along with the MagneRide damping system round out the standard equipment to produce the most balanced Mustang ever.
A Lexus that is designed to excel on the track as well as the street. That’s the mission of the 467-horsepower RC F. Featuring the most powerful Lexus V8 to date (51 more horses than the now-discontinued IS F) the RC F also claims to come with track-engineered chassis, drivetrain and brakes. In other words, if the press release is accurate, Lexus is offering a full combo platter of enthusiast driving pleasure.
Lower, longer and wider than the standard RC, all the flourishes and fancy bodywork on the RC F serve a purpose: from providing improved aerodynamics, to increasing airflow through the oil cooler.
We’ve given Lexus some guff for sticking the “F” badge on cars willy-nilly, but considering the RC F has been tuned on both Fuji Speedway (namesake of all “F” branded cars) and the Nürburgring Nordschleife, it seems this one may have earned its badge.
Because even sports cars need to be economical these days, the RC F engineers employed some witchcraft to make the V8 under its bulging hood even better than it was in the IS F. Redline has been increased 300 RPM to 7100, compression ratio is up to 12.3:1 (from 11.8:1 in the IS F). The engine also employs an Atkinson Cycle at cruising speed to improve fuel economy (TBD). Cooling of both the engine and the transmission has also improved, to increase longevity during trackdays.
The only transmission is the 8-speed Sports Direct Shift system. In other words, an automatic. But not just any automatic. This one has a bevy of options including a, you guessed it, trackday mode called S+. In this mode it will shift harder, faster, blip the throttle on aggressive downshifts and even hold or select gears based on G-sensor inputs.
We look forward to driving this one soon. Maybe a BMW vs. Lexus shootout is in order?
I promised more on this modded s202 from Minkara a few posts back belonging to Pikarin from Osaka, Japan. It packs a JUN 2.2L stroker for starters. I think this is my first J-spec subaru post as well! I’ve been on an S202 kick lately so a little background…
At 320 horsepower from the factory, the Subaru S202 was the first car to break the 276-horsepower restriction on all Japanese cars (ever notice why so many cars in Gran Turismo are “exactly” 276 hp) and paved the way for the ISF, GTR and other high horsepower creations to roll out of the island country. Every generation of Impreza has had a super limited edition sportscar model dubbed the S201 (classic GC8 ), S202 (bugeye GD), S203 (blobeye GD), S204 (hawkeye GD), and R205 (the new GRB).
The S202 essentially takes the stripped down racing model of the STI – the STI type RA spec C – and reloads it with high end sports car goodies: STI projector headlights (heavier but better looking), STI front mount oil cooler, bronze 17″ STI wheels made by RAYS (which bear a striking resemblance to RAYS Volk CE28N), chassis and brake upgrades, and a carbon fiber GT wing. Only 400 were ever made.
This guy modded an S202. He took Subaru’s ultimate bugeye and made it better, and more suited to his use for it as a weekend track car.
The metal bumper vent only on one side of the car may not be the prettiest but it is functional… behind it is a the GReddy front mount oil cooler (in addition to the STI factory front mount oil cooler that all S202′s come with), which vents air through the metal duct… pretty creative engineering.
The vents cut into the stock rear bumper (though they vary in appearance) – and the flip up rear license plate with vents behind it – are pretty standard faire on Japanese track cars. Both allow trapped air to escape the bumper and reduce drag.
The S202′s front-mount factory STI oil cooler switched positions with the intercooler.
And it gets tracked…
– JUN AUTO custom 2.2L stroker kit EX
– JUN AUTO pistons
– JUN AUTO oil pump
– Tomei valve springs
– Tomei cams
– Tomei timing belt reinforced belt guide
– Tomei exhaust manifold (headers)
– Ganador Full Titanium exhaust
– Cusco air intake hose
– HKS racing intake
– HKS twin power ignition amplifier
– Big throttle Racing shaft Baku Baku Factory (ばくばく工房 Big throttle Racing shaft)
– Power enterprise F1 black engine bearing
– SARD fuel collector tank
– SARD fuel injectors
– SARD fuel pressure regulator
– Laile (BeatRush) crank pulley
– Tomei baffle stiffiner plate
– ARC oil pan
– Kondo Engineering “3” all aluminum radiator
– Kondo Engineering tune for 2.2L motor
– Ecutek ECU
Turbo & Cooling
– IHI Turbo (machined)
– GReddy Type RS blow off valve
– GReddy Front Mount Intercooler SPEC-R (editor’s note: the SPEC-R is a different GReddy fmic than the smaller GReddy front mount that you see on U.S. WRX’s)
– earlier setup: ARC top mount intercooler and Prova High Pressure Bypass Valve (made by Forge)
– STI Oil Cooler (stock - OEM S202 Part)
– GReddy Oil Cooler (secondary… custom metal vent)
–PFC front three piece rotors for STI Brembos
–RDD rear 330mm three piece rotors for STI Brembos
–Endless EP357ME22 brake pads
–Endless CCR brake pads
–Prova carbon fiber brake cooling guide ducts
– Extended studs
– Hyperco HYPERCOIL coilovers
– Kondo Engineering Harmonic Drive
– Swift Hyperco Springs F 12k R 10k + 4k Hyperco spring assisted design
– Ikeya Formula roll center adjuster
– Cusco sway bars
– Okuyma floor braces
– Okuyama rear seat delete plate
– J Speed rear seat delete plate reinforcement braces (editors note: there’s a brace for everything :O)
– J Speed multi-piece fender braces
– Beatrush rear strut and trunk braces
– Beatrush floor brace
– STI titanium front strut bar (stock - OEM S202 Part)
– STI lateral links and trailing arms (stock - OEM S202 Part)
Wheel & Tire
– Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 tires
– STI wheels by RAYS
– RAYS Volk Racing CE28N (black) 17×9 +43
– RAYS Volk Racing RE30 (black) 17×9 +43
– Ganador SuperMirrors
– STI version 1 lip w/ factory STI unpainted/flat black option
– STI mesh fog covers – unpainted.
– STI projector headlights (stock - OEM S202 Part)
– STI roof vent (stock - OEM S202 Part)
– STI S202 carbon fiber wing (stock - OEM S202 Part)
– Monster Sport carbon trunk
– Monster Sport carbon hood with drop-in hood vent — also custom vented over the turbo.
– hood pins
– Stage 21 custom vented fenders – 20mm wider than stock
Engine ø92 mm forged pistons, stock titanium connecting rods, balanced stock crankshaft, upgraded oil pump, custom profiled intake and exhaust camshafts (IN: P233º 9.3 mm lift, Hi295º 12.5 mm lift, S238º 9.7 mm lift – EX: P238º 8.4 mm lift, Hi 288º 12 mm lift, S243º 8.7 mm lift), strengthened valve springs, C32B intake valves, C32B head gasket, Kakimoto custom exhaust manifolds, Kakimoto custom exhaust system, ø48 mm six-throttle conversion, custom velocity stacks, carbon fiber airbox with titanium intake pipe, 370 cc/min injectors, Nismo high pressure fuel regulator, BNR34 in-tank fuel pump, custom collector tank, NGK #8 racing plugs, ARC racing radiator, Setrab oil cooler, Motec M84 ECU
Driveline NA2 six-speed transmission, Exedy twin plate metal clutch, lightened flywheel, 4.643 final, ATS 2-way meal LSD, Kakimoto custom-made transmission oil cooler with custom baffling and intakes
Suspension/Brakes Kakimoto custom front tubular subframe/chassis, custom front suspension pick-up points, Kakimoto original adjustable suspension, Eibach 8.9kg/mm front springs, 23.2kg/mm rear springs, Kakimoto custom adjustable suspension arms all round, Endless six-pot front calipers, Endless front ø370 mm two-piece rotors, Brembo F360 four-pot rear calipers, Brembo ø340 mm rotors, Brembo single pot e-brake caliper, AP Racing master cylinder, Tilton brake balance adjuster
Heads up for any people who struggle with finding affordable and effective deodorants (NOT antiperspirants) for sensitive skin: for the last four or so months I’ve been cycling between baking soda/starch based powder blends and max strength 40% zinc oxide diaper creams.
WAIT! Before you stop reading, I know you’re thinking that you’ve tried variations of baking soda and if it works, you always end up with the Dreaded Armpit Rash.
1. I have found that the baking soda only irritates me after several days of constant use, so if I use it one or two days and then switch, I don’t suffer from DAR. Diaper creams are anywhere from $5 - $11 but you have to get max strength for it to be most effective, and a little goes a long way. The zinc is a thick white cream that is either safe or too large particle-wise for skin to absorb, but it can stain if not rubbed in well enough or if still moist, so I use it when I shower before bed and re-up it a little in the morning, or even put baking soda over it. I’ve found success with an application ratio of 5:2 days, zinc oxide cream to baking soda, with changes where I see fit. Alternatively, you should be able to use the cream 24/7 if you can’t use baking soda at all.
2. Aside: I also have this clear alcohol free aloe vera gel from walgreens that I use when I’m going out anywhere with short sleeves and I don’t want my armpits to be bright white or powdery, but it has chemicals in it that I don’t feel comfortable putting on my body daily, hence the using it for going out. It’s like $7, and if you can’t or don’t want to use that, I imagine that coconut oil and baking soda can make an effective and clear topical solution for when you want to show off the pits and remain odor free. Finding a good ratio to prevent irritation there is based on personal experimentation. Keeping them both fresh and totally dry there is a tough one that I don’t have any tips for since dryness usually comes at the sacrifice of invisibility, but the aloe vera gel dries totally invisible and works, and lasts months to a year.
3. Neither method (cream or soda) is always 24 hour proof in my own experience and it depends on your level of activity and body chemistry, but I’ve found that it’s the safest and most effective combination, and I’ve tried alcohol, lemon juice, coconut oil and magnesium oil. In these cooler months I don’t have to reapply as much. And the odor that does come isn’t 0 to 10 immediately. It starts with a little and increases with time, so you should be able to tell when it’s time to freshen up before others can. Changing the amount of body hair you have and method of removal can help or worsen odor, depending. I never recommend baking soda after hair removal, that will cause irritation which leads to smelling worse.
4. For the baking soda blend, I use equal parts baking soda and corn starch, but if you’re allergic then tapioca starch or arrowroot powder might work. The former is easier to find and cheap. I throw in some ground cloves and cinnamon for a scented boost but essential oil works too. This is also a great foot deodorant that can be applied to feet before wearing socks or boots. The skin of my feet are not as sensitive as the rest of my body, so I wear the foot deodorant daily, and sometimes add it to my shoes in general. It is great for year round wear but especially in the winter months when boots have to be snow proof, but the lack of breathing creates an offensive smell.
5. In other places where bacteria can breed but I don’t want a bunch of cream stains, such as under my belly and around my crotch, I’ll dust with the power blend or use magnesium oil with essential oils. I’m sure that if you have a problem with odor from fat rolls, it could work there too. For me, those crevices are less sensitive areas, so I can use the powder more often there. And they don’t get nearly as smelly as the pits so it’s more so about staying dry. If you can afford it, I imagine a silica powder could keep the area dry and wouldn’t be as visible as corn starch, but that seems excessive.
6. The diaper rash creams tend to have pleasant scents, but I have not seen any unscented creams. Play around with oils and scents to make something uniquely you! Some naturally work better alongside the scent your body produces, so fruity scents may not feel right on every part of the body, florals may work better here or there, etc. Don’t underestimate the power of woodsy scents and barks.
7. Finding what will work for you can be a process but once you do, it’s just about making the routine simple enough to maintain and listening to your body. I know i am not alone in my struggle and search so I thought I would share, especially for other plus size people. Best of luck!
If you can believe it this bugeye has over 210,000 miles (and over 200,000 of them were on the stock engine). Subaru’s industrial strength build quality definitely shows on this car…
Interestingly, Kwinskii owns two modded Subarus, this black bugeye WRX being one of them, and another White STI (full-on track buildup with a bazillion point hand made rollcage (w/ gussets), ballistically wide volks, and even more Voltex goodies than the WRX – also pictured below – but it now looks like THIS)
After hitting the 210 mark, this bugeye was freshened up with EDM HID projector headlights, a fresh coat of black paint, ’04 rear to fit the Voltex carbon rear diffuser, an STI shortblock (stock engine *with mods* gave out at 207k), and the most noticeable upgrade – 18×10 Work Emotion’s.
This is an extreme wheel setup, and I’m usually not a fan of too crazy aggressive fitment (when the wheel starts to exceed the fender line), but wide looks right on this car because it’s a near-widebody WRX. While he calls it a mere “fender pull” it’s clear that some immense metalworking talent and bodywork went into building the fenders out an additional inch or so. Normally fender pulling makes me cringe because it’s (1) a permanent/irreversible mod to your chassis (2) often poorly done with a Chipotle™ Burrito-foil crumpled texture… sometimes even rusting – but Kwinskii did it right.
“The stock motor lasted until 207,000 miles. Then I just did a STI 2.5L with WRX heads and an FP green EWG and all the supporting mods. Drove it like that for about 4,000 miles and now I’m on to better things and right now I am in the middle of a motor build.”
Suspension / brakes
Tein Super Racings with custom spring rates
Tein dual EDFC
Tein front strut tower bar
GT Spec Subframe brace
GT spec H brace
GT spec truck cage
STI control arms
Cusco 22 mm front sway bar
Cusco 22mm rear sway bar
Kartboy front end links
Kartboy rear end links
STI front Brembos
DBA 4000 series rotors
(STI Rears are being put on right now with DBA rotors)
New paint job done at 210,000 miles
JDM STI hood scoop
JDM STI front grill
JDM STI fog light covers
STI blinker covers
Brand new OEM bumper with shaved and new hole cut for front tow hook
Brand new OEM 04+ rear end with taillights
Front fenders rolled and pulled and the little body line is now gone
Rear fenders rolled and pulled
Voltex rear diffuser
Nukabe how hooks front and rear
(V2 STI lip on the way to make the front end be even with the rear)
Work XD-9 18X10 +18 (5×100 and only set in the country) with 265’s
Volk Black lug nuts
Motor / transmission. (I’m just listing everything that is going into the car right now or is on the car)
Brian Crower 2.7L (102 bore 8.2:1)
Brain crower 280 cams
Commetic head gaskets
Cosworth High volume high-pressure oil pump
Cosworth main and rod bearings
Cosworth Valves 1mm over sized
Cosworth Valve springs and retailers
Cosworth timing belt guide
Cosworth 11mm head studs. The new stronger ones
JDM Spec C intake Manifold.
Rotated intake manifold
Custom intercooler piping
Tial GT35R .82 rotated
Tial 44mm wastegate
Tial Q blow off valve
APS fuel rails with custom lines
1150 or 1600cc injectors. I might also get a 42R and switch every now and then so I haven’t made up my mind on that yet.
Samco radiator hoses
APS short ram intake
APS Exhaust manifold
APS 525 Silver front mount
Process West oil cooler (not that get of quality FYI)
Moroso oil pan
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure regulator
Prova water to air separator
Painted engine bay and wire tuck
STOCK Transmission still haha. (New one coming when this one goes. Either PPG or STI 6 speed)
I know there is a lot more that I am forgetting in the motor I just can’t remember right now.
Sparco Pro2000’s X2
Takata long harnesses X2
Cusco 7 point cage with 2 add on bars.
06 STI steering wheel
Beatrush bulkhead divider
There are many cars in San Francisco that are hella flushed out, but rarely do you see a one off car that was built with such expression. I was walking to class and immediately after seeing this Datsun 620 Truck I knew I had to snap some photos. The oil cooler plumbing coming out of the headlight and the rusted, twisted, upswept, side exit exhaust gives it an aggressive “I don’t give a fuck” performance attitude. The ZG Style rivet on fender flares add nicely to the retro theme, as well as, serve purpose to allowing the balloon, low offset, wide steel wheels and stretched tire combo, tuck neatly beneath. Hella flush is a disaster of a car fad. However, these retro cars mimicking the Japanese style are built with function in mind. Away with excessive negative camber and air bag suspension. Function and Form can work well together– it is up to the builder to find a nice equilibrium between the two.