I have a feeling A-list celebs will be clamoring to this ethereal collection of Marchesa gowns. One by one, models floated out in decadent floral appliqué bodices in golds, crimson reds, and aquamarine teals, complete with even more ornate tulle-enhanced skirts, fit-and-flare silhouettes, and sheer form-fitted overlays.
Jill Stuart, a designer known for utilizing flirty prints and making them sexy, presented her Fall 2012 collection, displaying girly whimsical pieces in hues of plum, indigo, navy, like a pansy flower and of course, winter white and black.
Monique Lhuillier is pretty much synonymous with full-on dramatic glamour, and the designer’s Fall ‘12 collection was no different. Whether in silk, covered with beads, or even in leather, Lhuillier’s offerings were equals parts sweet and va-va-voom.
It was Chinoiserie-chic and brocade abound at Jason Wu’s impressive Fall 2012 show — the designer paid homage to his native Taiwan with Mao military jackets, strong shoulder pencil dresses, and glitzy brocade blazers.
“If you took Mick Jagger in the ‘60s and made him a woman, these things are what he’d be wearing — with a bit of Marianne Faithfull, Bianca Jagger and Jane Birkin thrown into the mix,” Rachel Zoe said of the inspiration for her Fall 2012 collection. And so, out came the velvet brocade blazers, thigh-high suede boots, sequined minidresses, and long pile fur coats. Also in the mix were a few new silhouettes: pleat-front trousers, below-the-knee pencil skirts, and some super-wide palazzo pants. A little something for everyone, perhaps? “It’s just for a girl or woman that loves fashion, that kind of is not trendy, but she’s on trend, a woman that wants to enjoy life,” Zoe explained.
The idea of real strength was the central theme for Francisco Costa and his bold fall collection. “It’s very Bauhaus, but about the Bauhaus woman of the 1920s,” he said before the show. “She had strength, she was very powerful.” But Costa’s architectural ode to the strong woman didn’t translate into female warriors. The overall effect — the all-black set, the slow thump of the soundtrack and the models’ graphic hair, slicked sideways or cropped with cut bangs like Rooney Mara, who sat in the front row — was indeed powerful, but the reality of the clothes had a softer side: ladylike and charming, even with a Fifties couture touch.
Mendel said he was inspired by Gaudi’s architecture in Spain, as captured in an old Helmut Newton-lensed editorial for Vogue. “I feel like it spoke to the DNA of the brand. There’s the luxury of materials, rich textures and curves, which I see sliding over the curves of a woman’s body.” To that end, there was plenty of luxury to be found — and plenty of architecture as well. The former came in the use of cashmere, alligator, fox fur, and silks, the latter in sculptural draping and geometric cutouts. Separates and outerwear were sharply-tailored with plenty of feminine charm: belted leather jackets and decadent fur coats draped easily over soft wool suits, wide-leg trousers, and long-sleeve frocks.
“Certain things can make you really happy — a good vanilla cupcake is one. A fun pair of jeans rolled up to the knee is another,” John Patrick says. To spread that happiness, the designer has collaborated with Raleigh Denim on some terrific looking raw jeans — made from recycled and sustainable fabrics, of course — to go along with the season’s offering of hand-loomed knits, slouchy leather duffel coats, and wallpaper-floral frocks.
With a front row that boasted some of the best fashion week sightings yet, the Fall 2012 Rodarte show was off to a pretty stellar start right out the gate. After all, its not every day that one sees George Lucas at a fashion show. Not to mention Natalie Portman. In fact, this front row was so heavy with star power that it prompted some to wonder, “Is the Rodarte show the new Oscars pre-show?”
Well, not quite — but it was far and away the Mulleavys’ most controlled and accessible offering to date. The sisters found inspiration in Australia, culling influences from that country’s colonial era, the Outback — and nearly everything else in between. The result was imaginative, transporting — and utterly wearable. There were super-structured coats; cropped cable-knit sweaters; slouchy dungarees; and a boatload of very appealing frocks. Fabrics ran the gamut from leather to chiffon, and some stunning Aboriginal-inspired prints were used throughout.
And — in case you were wondering — there were also plenty of dreamy gowns just right for the A-listers up front.
Derek Lam is known for crisp, clean style, and for Fall 2012 he mixed in some beautiful florals for a more feminine touch. I loved menswear-inspired pieces rendered in floral prints, sporty bombers, and lovely floor-length gowns layered under the chicest cableknit sweaters I’ve seen in awhile.
Prabal Gurung showcased yet another amazing show in New York today. The show started very gothic, and started to get less and less gothic and more techno-print as the show progressed. It finished off with what I would describe as a gold rush.
Kate Spade’s quirky, color-filled aesthetic got a jolt of joie de vivre this season. With creative director Deborah Lloyd using classic Parisian motifs as inspiration, and Brad Goreski styling, the collection was a tongue-in-cheek ode to Parisian women. Classic, ladylike silhouettes were rendered in juicy colors and classic prints like florals and leopard, while ruffles, bow ties, and feathers referenced Parisian coquette. Accessory highlights included polka-dot pumps, sleek envelope clutches, and deliciously flirty car gloves.
“I used a lot of colors you would not associate with Winter colors, but today’s woman doesn’t dress for seasons," Oscar de la Renta explained of the icy blues and pale pinks that populated his Fall 2012 collection. On full-skirted ballerina dresses, bouclé coats, and voluminous ball gowns, the pastel hues were a welcome reprieve from the plethora of "oxblood” on offer nearly everywhere else this week. Other than pastels, De la Renta’s main focus this season was embellishment — and it came in every shape, style, and form. Glittering stones were worked onto the sleeves of cashmere cardigans, fox fur dripped from the hems of pants, and shimmering lace adorned collars. Even the models’ headbands, belts, and shoes were done up in an eye-popping assortment of jewels.