Bespoke NST Project, Part 3: Ordering and Measurements

For my own orders, I do quite like Styleforum member PC’s Saint Crispin’s MTO.   I think the additional side and sole details goes quite well with a full Norvegese Construction.  The details on G&G Hove or EG Dover are slightly too elegant and refined to be paired with the Norvegese hand sewn braidings.

And I’ve choose the middle of the ground sewing/braiding similar to the John Lobb Paris bespoke double monk below.  Not as hidden as PC’s MTO, which appears to have the same heft as Storm Welt or stitch down construction, but not as substantial as many of the Lattanzi Norwegian Split Toe samples I’ve seen.

For the leather, I’ve decided on the Chestnut/Tan hatch grain.


Meermin · Fabricación ’Norvegesse’

Meermin Madrid Store: C/Claudio Coello nº20 · (+34) 914312117 · ·

Bespoke NST Project, Part 1: Norwegian Split Toes

Brown Grain Calf is used for this shoe, which is excellent for either golf or country wear. The Norwegian is a waterproof as a leather shoe can be and this is due to certain essential and unique features. There are only two vertical seams in the uppers; one of these appears at the toe, under which a stout “toe box” made of hard leather gives great protection, and the other, slightly curved, can be seen on the inside of the heel. The shoe has been photographed on the inside to show this latter seam, which is purposely not placed symmetrically at the back, where the greatest strain occurs, but at the inside where it is much stronger and less noticeable; the stitches of both these seams are made from within through half the thickness of the leather only and are therefore invisible. The sole, too, is fixed to the uppers differently from any other type of shoe. Instead of using a welt, the upper is turned outwards and stitched to the sole and this operation necessitates an extra row of stitches just above the sole, which can be seen in the photograph. The characteristic Norwegian pattern, i.e., the crescent-shaped piece of leather on the front, is today commonly used for ordinary walking shoes but the features described above, essential to the true Norwegian, are seldom to be found in any but the best quality hand-made shoes.

Source: John Lobb St James Catalogue, 1939