nltm&g

//i didnt end up using this for my thing, and since @borurou is finally starting her UnderPatch, here’s the sheet for Stonefaced asshole from this blog (and also gpap) since they’re different.

tyte pants and sexy shoes all the way for this guy right ‘ere,

i’m making a GRIMDARK YET SHITPOSTY DOUJINSHI CALLED: 

Forget-Me-Not 

(not au LOL)

think of it as parrarel universe of gsans universe(s)

besides, this ended up happening eventually:

8

I was nobody auditioning, and then I was seen as this young, emerging talent, writer, Oscar-winner, and then I was seen as this blockbuster actor, and then I was seen as this train-wreck actor, and then I was seen as this resurgent director. And now I think I’m kind of seen as just sort of somebody in Hollywood who works.

Ok so I’ve had a lot of asks in the past about my materials so I decided to just do one big masterpost so I have something to link people to.

THIS IS A LIST AND COMPARISON OF ALL THE INKING MATERIALS I AM CURRENTLY USING.

I don’t like to tie myself down to just one standby pen because my needs change depending on what my drawing calls for.

-A simple dual-tip pen that’s easy to find at most art supply stores. Good for lettering. You can get one on Amazon for $6.83

-OK SO WHEN I WAS PREPARING THE TEST FOR THIS PEN I FOUND OUT IT HAD DRIED OUT. So sorry you can’t get a good idea of the line/variation of this guy. But, to be honest, I’m not a big fan. I found the pigma sensei ink to be too thin and the tips didn’t stay crisp for long. It’s not a BAD pen, just not a remarkably good one. You can find it cheaply on Jetpens for only $2 so that’s a plus. Good price point for beginners. I used this guy a lot for quick sketches and simple lettering.

-MY BOY RIGHT HERE. The closest thing I have to a ‘standby’ pen. I used to ink almost exclusively with this in my sketchbook in college. It’s a great, long-lasting, disposable pen and the ink is really black. You can get one on Jetpens for $3.50

-I have dual opinions on this weird little dual-tip. The fine tip has a great point and the ink is nice and black. However, it’s a pretty juicy pen. Lots of ink flow. This can cause a little bit of bleeding at the points of lines leaving them not as crisp as would be ideal. Good for larger work rather than fine detail. You can get it on Jetpens for $3.30

-This one is a bit of an outlier. It’s technically a japanese writing pen and I snagged it in the Japanese Village Plaza here in LA. A fude pen is a kind of pen used mostly for Japanese calligraphy and writing (Kuretake and pentel make many kinds) and they tend to be the type I like to work with because of line variation. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT BRAND THIS PEN IS THOUGH. I could read that it was a fude pen on the side because I can read hiragana but my kanji knowledge is so rusty that I couldn’t read the logo stamp. There are many kinds of fude pens but one thing to keep in mind is that not many of them are ‘copic-proof’ since they technically aren’t made for drawing. Always check to avoid bleeding/smudging!

-Oh pocket brush, you old son-of-a-gun! A really great and long-lasting ink pen. The only issue is that it’s got a crazy learning curve. It’s tough to wield at first and you need to have patience with it. However, once you master it, it’s a great and versatile pen. It’s a bit expensive, though. You can snag one on Jetpens for $13 which is slightly less than at many art supply stores. I wouldn’t recommend this for a beginner, and I suggest learning traditional brush inking first.

-I know this guy isn’t a brush pen, I know it. The thing is, you can still get lots of line variation from it and I love it. It has a thick blunt point that has some nice bounce to it and allows the ink flow to change depending on pressure. It works nicely with copics and it’s easy to build up line weight. I’ve been using these suckers since high school and they’re great for artists who want line variation but are too intimidated by brushwork (like I was at first). You can find these at most art suppliers but they’re hard to find individually online. You can get a multipack on Amazon for around $11.50.

I’ve used the same ink in all the brush (and dip pen) tests and it is FW Black Acrylic ink because that’s what I had nearest to me. It’s not a great ink but it’s not bad either. I usually like Deleter brand ink but this and some old sumi ink is all I have right now *sad trombone*

-Can’t find a link to this one online but I got it at Michael’s on a whim. It’s got longer bristles than my other inking brushes which makes it good for fine lines on larger pieces. Good variation and holds ink decently. Made from synthetic taklon fibers. Since it’s a bit long, it’s a bit more expensive and goes for around $5.

-You can find many sizes of these suckers online on Blick’s website. It’s a watercolor brush so it holds ink pretty well and can keep a crisp line. The bristles are shorter so it’s great for tiny details, however that might increase how often you’ll need to dip it. It’s a good li’l buddy also made from synthetic taklon fibers (although Grumbacher gets fancy and calls it ‘synthetic sable’). Due to the small 000 size, it tends to cost anywhere between $2-4.

-You can get these babies at Blick as well and they’re pretty comparable to the Grumbacher. Both are marketed as ‘synthetic sable’ and both do their jobs pretty nicely. This one is slightly longer so it’s a good kind of all-purpose inking brush and can handle detail as well as some thicker lines. Not sure what synthetic fibers (it’s a blend) are used here but I’m assuming taklon is in there as well. Goes for around $4.

-OK YEAH I GET IT. EVERYBODY’S ALL INTO THIS FLIPPIN BRUSH. This is the most expensive brush I own and I still feel weird having spent SO MUCH DAMN MONEY on it. It was everybody’s baby while I was at Pratt and it’s basically industry standard for comic pros. It’s a natural fiber sable brush (hair from a male siberian weasel). Not sure if the hair is gathered in a cruelty-free fashion so I will not advertise it as such. I have heard mixed things, though. Still trying to figure this thing out. It doesn’t have the same spring as a synthetic brush but it definitely passes the ‘flick test’ perfectly and holds a point well (the ‘flick test’ is when you wet a brush and flick your wrist while holding it. The bristles should come to a sharp point after flicking it). I’m used to working with synthetic so this is an adventure. I dropped about $25 (list price) on this sucker at a local art store but Amazon has them on sale for less than half that price (says my salty over-charged ass).

-The comic artist staple. The good ol’ G-nib. Great variation, great control. But dip pens are a BITCH to learn! This guy takes practice but it really pays off. Nib inking is really tactile and feels like a strange middle ground between brush and fineliner. Plus, I feel so cool and oldschool whenever I use one. I got this nib 3 pack on Jetpens for $4. MAKE SURE TO RUN THE TIP OF THE PEN OVER A FLAME BEFORE USING IT TO GET RID OF THE PROTECTIVE COATING. It’ll hold ink much more nicely.

FINELINER BONUS!!

-Decent cheap fineliner. Gets the job done and I don’t feel guilty if I write with it. Jetpens for $2. ‘Nuff said.

-Great fineliner. The tip doesn’t fray like a micron’s tip does and it works well with copics and ink washes. A good lil pen and widely available. In the same multipack on Amazon ($11.50) as the M size one above.

So yeah! I hope this messy post answered a few questions!

If you’re looking for a kind of pen I didn’t list here, some great brands to look into are Kuretake, Faber Castell, Pentel, and Pilot. Generally, Japanese-made pens tend to work the best, I find.