nickel steel

Appropriate Offerings for the Fae

Because I just told you to offer things to the fae, I figured I would write up a little list of things that are good offerings.  One thing to note, however, is that whatever you offer them you cannot take back.  Unlike with (some) gods, it’s not a good idea to eat things after you’ve offered them to the fae, and a trinket once theirs can be traded for, but you should never just take it back.  Okay, with that, I give you good offerings, grouped into categories.


FOOD AND DRINK

1. Alcohol is usually good - the sweeter the better, usually, though they also seem to like all kinds of beer.

2. Juice is also good, especially if it’s something a bit exotic.

3. Clean, cool water is good in a pinch, especially if it’s from a well, or filtered - they don’t like water with too much fluoride or chlorine in it, which rules out tap water in a lot of areas.

4. Any kind of cake or pastry is good.  Also bread.  Really just baked goods in general.  And sweeter is usually better here, too.

5. Meat.  Yes, some fae like meat.  Particularly the Wild Hunt types.  Figures, right?

6. Fresh fruit. Pretty much anything is good, so long as it’s not too bruised/shriveled, etc.

7. Honey.  Any kind of honey is good, by itself or drizzled on a baked good, like a piece of bread with butter.

8. Dairy products.  They love milk, cream, buttermilk, buttered bread, you name it.  Probably yogurt too, but I’ve never tried that.


TRINKETS:

1. Old jewelry.  Have an earring missing it’s pair?  Excellent gift for the fae.  Jewelry you used to love but don’t wear anymore? A broken silver chain?  All good.  And here most people will tell you it’s only okay if it’s silver or gold.  And I’m here to tell you that most fae don’t seem to mind a little stainless steel, and nickel and copper were never a problem.  The problem is cold black iron, like the stuff they make railings out of.  Eeesh.

2. Beads.  Plastic, glass, resin - really anything goes.  Strung or single, they seem to love beads.

3. Bits of broken glass or pottery.  Especially if it’s colored and you put it in a jar.  Pretty and interesting and they love it.

4. Bits of string.  Especially ribbon, and especially brightly colored, but twine is also acceptable, as is embroidery floss, or even hair ties.

5. Sequins and confetti.  These are also really quite wonderful when collected in a jar.  Fun shiny things are pretty excellent fae offerings.

6. Origami or other papercrafts.  It might just be the brightly colored and floral papers, but I find that fae like 3D papercrafts.  Just be careful - these cannot be left outside in the weather.

7. Hanging decorations.  I have a mini-mobile with a central prism that casts rainbows that they seem to like.  Things like that, especially with prisms, can be good offerings to the fae.


NATURAL ITEMS:

1. Pretty stones.  Polished or not, just make sure that you didn’t actually take these from the fae in the first place - if you collected it out of a stream or forest, did you leave an offering in return?  Anything you bought is probably fine.

2. Flowers and leaves.  I like to give bits of plants that I’ve grown and tended, because otherwise you usually get into that “did you leave something in return when you collected it?” problem.  Plants you grow you are constantly giving offerings to: care, weeding, watering, etc.  Sometimes I make patterns with leaves and seeds and flowers, similar to a mandala.

3. Bones.  Most fae like bones, whether they are bones from your dinner, or bones you bought, or bones you found - though again, if you find something, give an offering in return.


HOMES:

1. Mini decorative birdhouses.  If you want fae (especially smaller fae like brownies and garden sprites) to move in nearby, try offering them a decorated mini birdhouse.  Just be sure the birds know it’s not for them!

2. Doors.  A lot of people sell little decorated fairy doors - these can be good, too, as long as you keep your Neighbors happy so that they watch the door for you.  It’s likely to become a portal to the fae realms, and not everything on the other side is friendly!

3. Windchimes.  Not exactly a home per se, but a wind chime can function as a sort of little outdoor altar to the fae.  Find one with a pleasing noise.  And again, they don’t seem to mind a little stainless steel, but make sure it isn’t made of cold black iron!

4. Gardens.  Some fae will come and inhabit a garden, or even the pots of a container garden, so make sure your garden is welcoming, if you have one!  They seem to especially like butterfly attractants and medicinal flowers, but for some of them any plant will do!


OTHER:

You can also offer the fae things like: a stream clean-up, reiki, visiting a wild place, or a memory.  It is really up to you and them.  This list is meant to be helpful, not exhaustive, and I recommend finding a way to get messages back from your local fae so that you can learn their particular preferences.

Headcanon time line

month 1

  • Starts growing protoform(basic structures)
  • Starts with cravings (Tungsten, steel, lead, and potassium)
  • New spark grows
  • Mood swings
  • Emotions somewhat shared mostly by movement
  • Tightness of chest


month 2

  • Starts growing protoform(basic structures)
  • cravings
  • New spark grows
  • Mood swings
  • Emotions are shared
  • Start to show
  • Tightness of chest
  • Broody and clingy


month 3 (First tri ends. Second begins)

  • Starts growing protoform(basic structures and internal works)
  • cravings change (Steel, lead, aluminum, cooper, silicon, and carbon)
  • New spark stops growing
  • Emotions are shared
  • Moodswings lessen
  • Tightness of chest


month 4

  • Starts growing protoform(internal works)
  • cravings
  • Moodswings
  • Thoughts start to be shared
  • Nasty strut aches


month 5

  • Starts growing protoform(internal works)
  • cravings
  • Moodswings
  • Nasty strut aches


month 6(Second tri ends Third tri starts)

  • Starts growing protoform(internal works and exo)
  • cravings change (chromium, silicon, nickel, manganese, steel, cooper, molybdenum and carbon)
  • Moodswings
  • Starts nesting
  • Nasty strut aches
  • Stomach stops growing 
  • Feeding lines test activate randomly 


month 7

  • Growing protoform(exo)
  • Antisocial behavior
  • Cravings
  • strut aches
  • false labors
  • Nesting
  • spark inters sparkling spark chamber one week before emergence
  • sparkling chamber transfomers open(goosh)

MULTIPLE FORMS ON A PODIUM 

From Left to Right:

Rem Koolhaas, Sketch for O.M. Ungers, Competition for Tiergarten Quarter, Berlin, Germany, 1973-1974 / Georges Vantongerloo, Construction, 1931 

Laszlo Moholy-Nagy, Sculpture in Steel, Copper, Brass, and Nickel, 1923 / Arquitectonica, The Helmsley Center Proposal, Miami, Florida, 1981 

8

H’okay, so here’s a master post of all the materials I’ve printed for various pieces. If you click on the picture it’ll tell you what the material is. This should be a fairly good illustration of what the materials look like. All Steel based materials print with the same level of detail and texture; and all plated and precious metals (i.e. sterling silver, brass, and bronze) will have the same level of detail.

All of these (with the exception of the cutom orzhov pendant) are available on my etsy store here. If you’d like a different stone than the one offered send me a message and I’ll give you a quote.

WE’RE BACK!!

After a much, much longer hiatus than originally anticipated, Rose Crest Cosplay is back and excited to bring you more replica rose seal rings!

Here’s what’s new:

-Rings are now available in all US whole number sizes 5 - 12!

-Plastic rings are now available at a reduced price of $25 USD

-For a more affordable metal option, check out the new Nickel Steel and Black Steel rings!

Thank you all so much for your patience. I know it’s been a long wait, but we’re thrilled to be back. We’ve also got some entirely new products in the works, so stay tuned!


2

The Brewster Body Shield, World War I

Today soldiers of most modern military forces don body armor, typically made of artificial materials such a kevlar and ballistic ceramics which are feather light in weight, but are several times stronger than steel.  With the advent of gunpowder warfare most European armies stopped using armor as the heavy pieces could no longer protect a soldier from bullets.  However in the trenches of World War I, the idea of wearing body armor made a comeback as deadly artillery and mortar shrapnel claimed many lives.  Nations on both sides developed their own armor, issuing pieces on a limited basis to the troops.  The most prolific were the Germans, who created a nickle silicon cuirass called the “infantriepanzer”, which was issued to static units such as machine gunners and sentries. In the UK and France there were dozens of companies which produced lightweight armor from high strength textiles such as silk and kapok (a high strength cotton-like material), which were woven together in layers and coated with resin.  Such textile armors, a prelude to later kevlar vests, were often effective in protecting a soldier from shrapnel, but could not stop a bullet.

Then there was the Brewster Body Shield.  Invented by the American Dr. Guy Brewster, the Brewster Body Shield didn’t use all those fancy smanzy lightweight materials such a silicon, silk, kapok, and resins.  No, the Brewster Body Shield was made from solid chrome nickel steel.  The large cuirass piece adequately covered the chest, abdomen, and groin while the head was protected by a large cone obelisk shaped helmet.  A view port was cut out of the helmet so the soldier could see, although a pair of rotating plates could cover the viewport for added protection.  Unfortunately, the soldiers legs and arms were left unprotected. The armor only covered over the front portion of the body, while the back was left exposed.

The Brewster Body Shield was effective, damn effective.  In fact, after US Army testing it was found that the Brewster armor could deflect bullets from a Lewis light machine gun.  Dr. Brewster himself demonstrated the armor to the Army by personally wearing a suit while a squad of soldiers riddled him with bullets. At the end of the demonstration, Dr. Brewster declared the each bullet only hit with, “one tenth the shock which he experienced when struck by a sledge-hammer.”

While Dr. Brewster’s armor was effectively bullet proof, it was also impractical.  At 40 lbs the armor was heavy, but that was the least of its problems.  The armor was inflexible, the soldier wearing it could not bend down or twist at the hips and torso.  The soldier also could not turn his head, and was limited to a narrow view at the forward.  Running with the armor was difficult, diving and other evasive maneuvers were impossible.  It was also very difficult to fire a rifle because of the armor’s slopped design.  Fortunately, Dr. Brewster’s armor was never adopted by the US Army, and never saw combat.

My Model 94s

I now have 3. I believe I’ve described one or two in detail before, so I’m sorry if it’s old news. 

Left to right:
The first one is the Kludge. A receiver dating to the year 1900, a newer production buttstock and endplate, and replacement barrel that was probably from the 50′s. the forearm is older, but still probably not original. The receiver was drilled and tapped for a scope, but it has screws in the holes. It’s a bit of a mess, but she shoots great, and has a very smooth action. 

The middle one dates to the year 1928. The stock is pretty rough, but is original. I found it interesting that the forearm is shorter than the others, and that the barrel band is in front of the sights. This one also has the post front sight rather than the hooded one like the other two (although the first one is missing the hood). The rear sight, I believe, was replaced at some point, because it sits very far back on the barrel, which made the sight elevator hit the receiver. When I bought the gun, it was missing the rear sight elevator - I grabbed one for $4 on some parts website, but it was too long. I had to cut off one end of it. I still haven’t shot this one, but it’s got a smooth action, as well. 

Then the one on the right. I actually just acquired this one, and she’s the newest of the three. First off, note the flat band on the barrel. the internet says the flat-band 94s were produced for a portion of 1946, all of 1947 and a portion of 1948. However, these years fall into the years of no record for Winchester. I would like believe that this one most likely came from late 1946 or early 1947 because of where the serial number is in relation to the last numbers for 1942 and 1948. Regardless, it’s a little bit more unique because of that. Also, the butt stock has more of an angle to it. I noticed this when setting them up for the above photo. the other two would lean against the wall just fine, but this one kept wanting to fall over. I had to turn it toward the wall, and realized it was because of the butt pad’s angle.  This is also the rifle that has the glossy stock, which I think has been refinished, although I cant find any definitive answers online as to how the pre-64 rifles’ stocks left the factory across the decades. This is the one I want to take the stock from and see if I can’t strip the lacquer or whatever is on it, and oil up the bare wood to bring out some more natural color and beauty. Today, I bought the stuff I need to do that, so I’ll start that project tomorrow sometime. 

Also, here are some more detailed pictures for fun. 

Sights and barrel markings - it’s hard to see because my camera is shit, but note that the receivers from 1900 and the 1940′s wear barrels marked New Haven PROOF STEEL and the original barrel to the 1928 gun says NICKEL STEEL. 

Receivers. Left is from 1900. Top right is 1928, and bottom right is 1940′s

Barrel bands and front sights. 

and the stocks. left 1900, top right 1928, bottom right 1940′s.



@30roundrevolution, @fed-ex-official, @xxdarkside13xx