stockholm fashion week: nhu duong

(images via fashion inquisitive)

vietnamese-born swedish designer nhu duong has been absent from stockholm fashion week for several seasons now, at least in the solo show format, and she returned with an experimental spring 2012 range that embraced the bright colours reigning for the season, but also adopted more of a futurist aesthetic than most of her peers. 

the winner of various awards and scholarships, as well as having received industry recognition for her budding excellence, the mbfws site explains of ms. duong, “Through the progressive use of everyday objects and unusual materials, Nhus [sic] collections form surrealist experiments that play with the idea of high fashion. Nhu explores the edges of commercial fashion, through numerous collaborations and independent projects, ranging from WEEKDAY and SVENSK TENN to New York based jewelry-duo FAUX/REAL and performance artist LINDA SPJUT." 

in a post-show interview with dazed digital (they term the show in part a "90s techno collection”), the designer explained that she saw the show, titled ‘coding,’ as “mechanical but still very romantic…"  she added that some pieces were inspired by her father’s kung fu garb (he was a master of the art) and others came about through ”(t)rough coded weaving, prints and my mechanic way of fucking up images…“ 

"It’s partly same process as last collection where I took touristy images from the Internet and made them bigger and smaller to get a pixelated effect. This time around, I destroyed them by messing with the codes,” the designer noted of the show’s prominent graphics, which came during the later part of the presentation.  almost divisible into halves, the beginning was devoted to blown-up cuts of sportswear in shades of white, navy, black, and beige, which slowly gave way to graceful evening dresses in acid hues of neon yellow, pink, metallic green/blue, and tangerine (i wondered if that was her skirt we saw, at bottom, during the beckmans f/w 2011 presentation). 

working with materials like linen, leather, knits, nylon, and latex, the scant 15-exit range showed an impressive depth of range, varying from tanks and wide raver pants to elegant gowns and prim jackets (see some great additional shots at columbine).  i wondered that it wasn’t perhaps a bit too short to encapsulate all of these ideas, for we barely seemed to have begun scratching along the surface of one before turning to the next, but nevertheless, it’s impressive to have a new-ish designer bringing so many new concepts to the week, and dazed is perhaps correct with the comment that she “ is exactly the kind of designer Sweden needs to get rid of its monochrome and minimal aesthetic and to move on, into a bright and light future.”

updated: with new images

WorkWEAR: Stir UP the WeekEND

The Nhu Duong Tanning Pant is good for all sorts of fun weekend activities, especially the really physical ones. I’ll let your mind wander in the gutter as I suggest a Saturday morning spin class! 

stockholm fashion week: nhu duong

(images via mbfws)

okay, so opt first–and most recently–encountered designer nhu duong during the s/s 2012 shows at stockholm fashion week, and although we’re practically onto another season by now, we’ve still yet to speak of her latest work (for a few more minutes, that is), the s/s 2013 collection.

anyway, last season i charged that the designer’s aesthetic had some distinctly raver-ian overtones to it, and i’d say that was once again the case for her upcoming spring work, which was, as the swedish site damernas pointed out, garnering a lot of attention from practically everyone excited to see how she’d challenge the preconceptions of swedish fashion next.

this time around, though, i was a little surprised that no one deigned to respond to the designer’s inspiration, instead describing the collection as they saw it; for example, rodeo, though they among those with the sky-high hopes, claimed that for the upcoming season, we saw (trans.) “several strong cards, such as a transparent bomber jacket and those wide, linen pants,” though they also allowed that these “we have seen before.”

unfortunately, i’d agree that this work didn’t feel as fresh, or as novel, as when we first encountered the designer, but then, that can often be the case, can’t it?  anyway, design 4 2 day perhaps had the best, most in-depth analysis, writing that “(s)eemingly stern business suits escaped from the office dress code and similar uniformed austerity thanks to some striking accessories.”

carrying on, they added that “(t)his time the designer used thigh-high cropped trouser legs that resemble very long boots to elongate the silhouette and tickle our fancy. These bold pieces are most emphasized and look the best when combined with mini dresses, as seen on this particular runway. As we mentioned above, Duong played with the purpose of clothes and our first impressions when we see her creations, so we would not recommend these ensembles to be worn at an important meeting.”

“Probably the most-attention grabbing pieces,” they argued, “are sporty jackets which are distinguished by the fact that they are surprisingly translucent. With the show coming to an end, white and grey transparent materials appeared more frequently. Black, white and grey dominated, and therefore this color palette is not well away from the designer’s previous collection. Just as a reminder, Duong used similarly toned hues for the last season, with some neon segments here and there.”

(see the fashion show video here)