(images via mbfws)
okay, so opt first–and most recently–encountered designer nhu duong during the s/s 2012 shows at stockholm fashion week, and although we’re practically onto another season by now, we’ve still yet to speak of her latest work (for a few more minutes, that is), the s/s 2013 collection.
anyway, last season i charged that the designer’s aesthetic had some distinctly raver-ian overtones to it, and i’d say that was once again the case for her upcoming spring work, which was, as the swedish site damernas pointed out, garnering a lot of attention from practically everyone excited to see how she’d challenge the preconceptions of swedish fashion next.
this time around, though, i was a little surprised that no one deigned to respond to the designer’s inspiration, instead describing the collection as they saw it; for example, rodeo, though they among those with the sky-high hopes, claimed that for the upcoming season, we saw (trans.) “several strong cards, such as a transparent bomber jacket and those wide, linen pants,” though they also allowed that these “we have seen before.”
unfortunately, i’d agree that this work didn’t feel as fresh, or as novel, as when we first encountered the designer, but then, that can often be the case, can’t it? anyway, design 4 2 day perhaps had the best, most in-depth analysis, writing that “(s)eemingly stern business suits escaped from the office dress code and similar uniformed austerity thanks to some striking accessories.”
carrying on, they added that “(t)his time the designer used thigh-high cropped trouser legs that resemble very long boots to elongate the silhouette and tickle our fancy. These bold pieces are most emphasized and look the best when combined with mini dresses, as seen on this particular runway. As we mentioned above, Duong played with the purpose of clothes and our first impressions when we see her creations, so we would not recommend these ensembles to be worn at an important meeting.”
“Probably the most-attention grabbing pieces,” they argued, “are sporty jackets which are distinguished by the fact that they are surprisingly translucent. With the show coming to an end, white and grey transparent materials appeared more frequently. Black, white and grey dominated, and therefore this color palette is not well away from the designer’s previous collection. Just as a reminder, Duong used similarly toned hues for the last season, with some neon segments here and there.”
(see the fashion show video here)