modern tailoring

VOGUE IS SHOOK OVER BTS EXCLUSIVELY TAILORED YSL SUITS:

BTS is back on the red carpet and looking better than ever. Following a scene-stealing appearance at the Billboard Music Awards in May, the Korean boy band sensation has returned to the West Coast for their second U.S. awards show: the 2017 American Music Awards, which will also feature their first major televised stateside performance. For the historic occasion, the members returned to Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello, whom they trusted to once again deliver seven modern black suits, each tailored to the individual.

V chose a sleek black jacket with a Mandarin collar and silver military buttons running down the front with oversize suit pants, while Suga wore a cropped lapel-less coat over a cream-colored henley. Jin also went sans lapel in black tuxedo satin, which blended seamlessly with Jungkook and RM’s head-to-toe black (the former went classic, the latter added leather). The final two members, Jimin and J-Hope, chose to branch out: Jimin by adding a gunmetal moto jacket, J-Hope with a modernized changshan suit coat. Standing together, they reinforced their message of shared style with a personal twist. It won’t be the last time we see it.

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Eidos Napoli AW15

The brainchild of Antonio Ciongoli, Eidos has been slowly redefining the concept of tailored garments for modern men. Stepping away from the overly thought, stiff silhouettes mistakenly associated with tailoring, Ciongoli has created a brand that effortlessly portrays how men should dress. Eidos’ AW15 collection, The Correspondent, showcases a variety of polished garments suited for the occasion, whichever it may be - work, weekend or black tie events, chances are you could hardly look any better.

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Richard James SS18 Collection - Pitti Uomo 92 Preview

While Savile Row is worldly renowned for its unscathed traditionalism when it comes to the school of British tailoring, recent changes in this bespoke haven have led many to question not only its future, but current contribute to one of menswear most revered art forms. Without delving too deep into the controversial that surrounds the Row, I’m grateful for the fact that some institutions still remain bastions of traditional tailoring and others have been able to materialize contemporaneity without compromising their roots. 

One adamant example of what one may call “modern tailoring” is undoubtedly Richard James. As one of the “New Establishment” labels on Savile Row, only since 1992, Richard James has been able to create a reputation for itself through its irreverent use of color, pattern and design, portrayed on collections which embody its location’s trademark values of luxury, quality and craftsmanship. In fact, the bold vibrancy its garments present could easily pass as something more mainstream to the untrained eye: the unusual color palette, modern styling and mix of relaxed pieces are not what most would expect from Savile Row.

However, this progressive approach to tradition is exactly what makes it so appealing. The underlying concept is that of owning quality pieces that can then be mixed and matched to portray individual style, but always with a twist. On a personal level, this completely resonates with my own vision on personal style, heavily marked by the mix of bespoke and more easy-going garments. For SS18, the amazing color palette of green and pink suits, jackets and slacks, is beautifully complemented by crisp sneakers, knitted polos and linen shirts that immediately balance any overly stiff attires. 

Miguel Amaral Vieira

Deconstructing Q's look

 Why you are all wrong about Qs Cardigan.

I feel like there is so much dislike in this fandom for Q’s wardrobe and his cardigan in particular. I’ve read fic, after fic describing it as anything from hideous to garish. So I’m going to explain it to you from a costume and fashion perspective. and hopefully convince you Q’s clothes only really look comparatively ugly or eccentric next to Bonds rather old fashioned stayed wardrobe. 

This contrast is a deliberate move on the part of the costume designer. Q is of course supposed to be the antithesis of bond. Where Bond is hard; Q is Soft: his outfits always have some tactile element to them. Where Q is a young man from the world of IT where business casual is a must. Bond is an older man from a military world where uniformity even in the shape of Tom ford suits is de rigure.

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anonymous asked:

i was thinking that the idea of asexuality being too boring to portrait it on tv is less about the asexuality itself but the writers being unable to write a good plotline for a character that isn´t involved romantically/sexually with others.

This is true in many ways. It’s easier for writers to use tropes if they want to mass market something to millions of viewers. Modern fandoms are increasingly tailored to shippers who tend to go all out at the drop of a hat. I don’t mean to shit on fandoms, but in my experience queer communities are the ones who keep the franchise alive enough to be mass produced later towards and then targeted to heteronormative audiences which I think is inherently unfair, and a cheap cash grab.

you’ve got stars in your eyes

i want you all to know that i love eren jaeger very much. happy late birthday my beautiful boy and happy season two to the rest of us!

special thanks, as always, to @baegerbombtastic, who reads my garbage whenever i send it, regardless of what we were talking about at the time, and thank you to @ereriere for telling me i’m not a failure for taking too many months to post this.

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Pairing: Eren/Levi
Verse: Let There Be Light (a prince au)
Rating: T (but E for last chapter)
Summary: Stillness hits the dancefloor with all the weight of a summer storm, ending just as suddenly as it had started, and the index and middle finger of the Queen Regent’s right hand are pressed to Eren’s throat, her left pressed to the crook of her own elbow, while Eren’s fingers are curled around her wrist. It’s a scene from a fable that Levi had never retained over his decade of royal service, though Isabel had told it to him more times than he’d asked. 

The Queen drops her arms when silence settles back over the ballroom, dropping into a curtsy modest enough for a Regent but deep enough to show gratitude—and the marble beneath Levi’s feet vibrates with applause. Nobles ten paces in front of him chatter back and forth in languages he doesn’t know, but some words are familiar, if only because of the context. 

Prince. Regent. Beautiful

Levi wants to agree, can feel the force of it climbing onto his tongue, scraping the insides of his cheeks.

When he looks back toward the center of the ballroom, he finds Eren’s eyes on him. 

Or you can [Read on AO3]!

chapters:  i | ii | iii | iv | v | vi | vii | viii | ix | x | xi

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The Lie of Function Over Form

Years ago, my father and I had distanced ourselves from an Asiatic sword style that was more pyramid scheme than martial art. He was looking for something new, something exciting. It is here that he stumbled upon HEMA.

I certainly took some convincing, we had been a part of the SCA when I was a kid and I still have tortured memories of handmade armour, hobo-style leather work and a shit tonne of duct tape. The SCA seems like a lot of fun, but the backyard shenanigans of dishevelled knights was of no interest to me.

For months I pooh-poohed, that is until I came upon this photograph. 

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anonymous asked:

i was going thru your tags but i can't find your fashion tag? can you put that up somewhere?

yeah ever since tag cloud died I haven’t had a chance to redo my tags i’m sorry! I have multiple fashion tags though, here you go:

  • fashion (the main tag and the biggest, everything will be in here)
  • menswear (this is a bit neglected now that I don’t really wear suits as much, but it’s pretty typical menswear and suits/ties/etc. I’ve been trying to populate it more with non-men though)
  • runway (any runway line goes here)
  • street-style (for cool ensembles that people wear day-to-day, some of it gets pretty avant garde still)
  • neopunk (my personal Solaris inspiration tag. I classify Neopunk under a lot of things, future fashion, modern tailoring with Asian influences, urban ninja, post-apoc fashion, lots of black+white outfits)