model wargaming

10

Alright, so I think I’m happy enough with this to call it done! This is my 2'×2’ model based on Bleak Falls Barrow from Skyrim and the second terrain model I’ve ever made. The body is made out of pink insulation foam and paper mache to give the shape and stability I wanted, and all of the rocks are also carved pink foam. I used painter’s putty/spackling paste to fill in the gaps, and a mixture of putty and PVA glue to seal everything and texture the bricks. I used a sponge to layer on the grey paint for the bricks to give it a very old look, and they gave a dark wash to the recesses. The mountain was painted with blue greys to set it apart from the building and give it a cold look. Afterwords, I added white paint and snow flocking.

I may come back to add some more details to this in the future, the arches in-game have a few details on the sides that I wasn’t able to replicate with foam, one of the biggest being the Eagles on top of the center pillars. But I’m content right now.

All in all, I spent around $25-30 on this build. One 4×8 sheet of foam was enough for the framework and all of the rocks. I used a whole tub of putty on this, which I could have avoided if I was more precise with my rock shapes. Either way, I’m incredibly pleased with the end result, and I hope you all like it.

Any questions about the building are more than welcome, either in the comments on this post or on my blog directly. Also, I’d love to hear your suggestions for other things to make!

3

Remarkable freehand adornment on a Golden Demon 2013 entrant Green Knight painted by thebrushbrothers.blogspot.co.uk

Lore, from wikia.com:

“The Green Knight is a well-known figure of Bretonnian folklore - a common character in puppet shows and plays performed for peasants and kings alike, he is bedecked in strange ivy-covered armour and intones his famous line: ‘None shall pass!’ The traditional nemesis of the valiant Questing Knights, the Green Knight challenges them to duels so that they might prove their worth to the Lady herself, and thus sip from the blessed Grail. Little do most realise that these stories are bound in fact. The Green Knight is the sacred protector of Bretonnia, and his spirit-essence is intertwined with the land and the Lady of the Lake herself. He has appeared to many Questing Knights. They speak of the sky clouding over to create the darkness of twilight, and a green mist seeping from the earth, slowly taking the shape of a figure riding a snorting steed. The warrior brandishes a glowing blade, his eyes ablaze with fey light.

The Green Knight is the champion of the Lady of the Lake, and protector of the sacred sites of Bretonnia. As well as materialising to test Questing Knights in their faith, the Green Knight will appear when these sacred places are defiled by those with evil-hearted intent. Amongst the beast herds of the tainted forests, he is known as Shaabhekh, literally the ‘Soul-Killer’, for he has slain untold thousands of their kind throughout the centuries. He bursts from within the bole of the most ancient trees, or gallops furiously from still lakes or rushing waterfalls to wreak his terrible vengeance against those interlopers. As quickly as he appears, so too will he fade into mist once his righteous slaughter is complete. In some tales, he will disappear in one place only to reappear behind the enemy, slaying them without mercy before again disappearing and reappearing elsewhere.

He appears to those questing for the Grail and guards the mysterious glades, lakes and stone circles where the Lady of the Lake appears. He challenges any Questing Knight who seeks the Grail to mortal combat. This is the last and final test of the Grail quest. If the Questing Knight can match the Green Knight, he will eventually reach the Grail. Any Knight with a soul unworthy of the Grail will fail in his duel with the Green Knight and will either flee or be slain. The Green Knight himself cannot be slain, no matter how grievous the wounds inflicted on him.

Weapons have little effect on the Green Knight. Some say that blades and arrows pass straight through him as though he were as insubstantial as morning mist. In one epic tale, a Questing Knight cut the Green Knight’s head clean from his shoulders, but the spirit simply picked up his head and rode away.

What the Green Knight actually is has been much debated, and no one in Bretonnia, save perhaps the Fay Enchantress, knows the truth. Some believe that he is the spirit of Bretonnia given physical form, while others swear that he is Gilles le Breton himself, having devoted himself completely to the land and the Lady for eternity after he was taken from this world.

The Green Knight myth has its roots in Arthurian legend, most notably the 1300s poem ‘Sir Gawain and the Green Knight’.

5

“Who is the chosen one”
sculpted & painted by Alfonso Giraldes Banshee.
The project was made with Diego Esteban and a collaboration with Fausto G. for the World Expo 2011 in switzerland.
Size 75 mm
Source Putty and paint.

I can’t find words to desrcibe it. Really. I wil just stare at these pictures and meditate a few minutes…

6

Hey everyone! I’ve been working on this build for about a week now, so I figured it was time to start showing off. This is my model of a nondescript ancient Nordic tomb from Skyrim. It’s primarily based off of Bleak Falls Barrow, but is a bit simpler in design.

I’m hoping to get all the building done soon so that I can start painting and detailing. I’ll probably post once or twice more before the final product. Hope you all like it!

8

It’s been a minute since I posted, new job is keeping me busy and tired. Decided to use my day off wisely and finally got a headstart on that comission for my hyper patient friend. I am already loving the base, now I gotta make everything match it.

Quick little hobby update. I finished a couple of dungeon bases for various little side projects I am currently working on. The smaller one will be for a small objective marker/cache for games of DnD, and the larger flagstone base will be for a Dwarf monk who will be painted up shortly!

Happy Hobbying!

David

10

Providence : The Wanderer docked in the port of Providence

Hello everyone !

Some pictures of the Wanderer in the port of Providence.

The ships are getting bigger and bigger. I will now work on the last one, a Man’o’War, which will be the central element in the port of Providence.

Stay connected !

Snowy Water Feature Tutorial

Today we’re going to go over my technique for creating striking water features in your miniature basing and terrain work, like this. 

This piece is the basework for a Cygnar Storm Strider, back when I thought that I was interested in Cygnar as a faction. Boy was I wrong! 


First off, a list of essential supplies for the project. 

A Base
Corkboard
Wine Cork
Super Glue (gel/thin)
PVA Glue
2 Part Acrylic Resin
Baking Soda
Acrylic Paints (I use a mix of P3 & Citadel)
Primer
Plasticard
Milliput (or any modeling putty)
Sand/Shale

Scissors
Hobby Knife
Dremel Tool
A Pen

You start off by cutting a circle of your corkboard and gluing it in place on the base of your choice. This provides the start of your soil layer and provides a nice elevation for the edges of any water features you might place. Do not glue down any part of the corkboard that will later be cut away to form a pool, as it will be a bitch to remove if you do.

After you’ve glued the cork in place, use a pen to mark out the edges of your water feature. Try and avoid perfectly round pools, unless you’re going for a cartoony vibe. After making your mark, cut the shape out with your hobby knife.

It’s at this point that you glue/pin any of your major terrain features/props in place onto the base. In the case of the base at the start of the article that meant wine cork, cut at sharp angles, to simulate boulders.

After your props are in place, it’s time to Dremel out the plastic of the base where the bottom of the water feature will be. This will leave you with something that looks like this.

Now you’ll want to cut out some plasticard in a large enough shape to completely cover the bottom of the pool. When you’ve got that sorted, it’s as simple as gluing it in place.

Next up, you form the walls of the pond with a bit of milliput, making certain that it is sealed against both the upper lip of the corkboard and the plasticard bottom.The end result should be both organic looking and watertight. After the milliput sets, use some PVA glue and sand/shale to cover the cork and plasticard, just like you’d use them to base anything else.

I use several different grits and shale pieces to add depth to the soil profile. You rarely see uniformity in nature after all. I also picked shale as it’s sharp edges really math the rock profile of the wine cork boulders. I’ll be picking out individual pieces with gray paint to tie the terrain together.

After that all dries and sets, it’s time for some black primer.

The first thing you paint is the bottom of the pool, so you can pour your resin and let it sit overnight (not a project for the impatient). You do this by wet blending a gradient of blue tones across the bottom. The deepest part of the pool being Citadel’s Teclis Blue and working up the highlights with a mix of Teclis and working P3 Morrow White. A 1/1 mix for the first transition and a ½ mix for the lightest highlight. I like to pick any large rocks with the highlight color brighter than it’s surroundings as it really makes the detail POP, when the underwater effect is applied.

When that paint has dried, it’s as simple as carefully mixing and pouring the 2 part resin and waiting for it to set. A word to the wise, most of the acrylic resins give off toxic/carcinogenic fumes, so it is a good idea to do the pouring and setting in a well ventilated area. Always make sure to follow the instructions on the tin when working with potentially hazardous substances. 


12-24 hours later, you’re ready to paint your piece. I recommend a triad drybrushing technique for ease of application and awesomeness of appearance. For the browns in the soil I start with a ample basecoating of Citadel’s Dryad Bark followed by a drybrush of Citadel’s Gothor Brown and a fine drybrushing of Steel Legion Drab. I use the same technique for the boulders and shale pieces, only in grayscale using Citadel’s Eshin Gray, Dawnstone and Administratum Gray, Respectively.


Now it’s time for some PVA glue and flock, got to mix in those grass elements!

Finally, and most dramatically… Snow. Snow is not a science, it is an art. I can give you the ingredient list, but not the ratios. Snow is not a static thing. There is wet snow, dry snow, powdery snow, yellow snow, compact show… you get the picture.

For wet snow, use a paintbrush to paint an area with realistic water effect then sprinkle a little baking soda on it. Use just a dash, and you’ve got a sheet of ice, a little more, wet/melting snow. Experimentation is key.

For dry snow, mix the baking soda with PVA glue, it will become doughy and hold its form, giving you ample time to shape it into a billowing snowbank or the dense snow swept aside by a passing tank. You’re limited by your imagination. As a word to the wise, if your snow seems too wet, sprinkle more baking soda on top, if it seems too dry, wet the edges with your acrylic resin or some gloss medium.

In the end, you should have something akin to this.

Well, that’s all for this tutorial. If you like what you see, let me hear about it! If you’ve got a tutorial you’d like to see, let me know! 

May your bristles never bend, 

Will Tomorrow

6

Starting a new project, a blacksmith for Merryinn. You can see, I don’t really plan or sketch stuff out first, I mostly just start with an idea. In this case, an “L” shaped blacksmith forge, with a second story entry.

I started this project by carving out a forge, and a set of stairs. Everything else will have to fall into place around that.

3

I’ve been working on one of my Mechanical Servo Haulers which will be in the thrall of my Genestealer Cult.
Tonight I managed to make some good progress with the weathering on this lovely little model.
I want to really get the Cult vehicles looking very banged up and neglected and I’m pretty pleased with how it looks so far!
Still some work to do on the metallic areas, and on the tracks but I’ll hopefully finish it this week!

Happy Hobbying!

David

ebay.com
28mm/25mm ALAMO MODEL, PLUS 615 PAINTED FIGURES (1986 model by Ian Weekley) | eBay
25mm/28mm custom-made Alamo model made by legendary English model maker, Ian Weekley. This may be a once in a lifetime opportunity, as far as I have been able to find out, this may be one of only two Alamo models ever made by Ian Weekley. | eBay!

Spotted on eBay:

This model was made in 1986.  The entire model is approx. 5 feet x 6 feet.  Also included is a hardback copy of Ian Weekley’s book “Buildings for the Military Modeler, Design and Construction” published in 1989, which features the Alamo model along with many other of his designs.