mod podge is great

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A fantastic foam Nightwing build by Shawn Webber - the first example I’ve seen of someone intentionally creasing craft foam after coating it with Mod Podge to give it a worn leather texture, and it looks great.

thewordofthedayiscosplay  asked:

Not really a ask but I just have to say I love your rose quartz sword it is so awesome I would love to know how you made it if you would mind sharing

Okay so first of all this is going to be quite a long post so buckle up

Lets start by going over the stuff that you will need for this:

1. Something to use as the foundation of the sword - Cause lets face it, foam alone isn’t going to cut it. I used a wooden pole that I bought from a hardware store. You can also completely skip this step and simply purchase a cheap toy sword to paint over instead, its cool.

2. A yoga mat - Honestly I found this is the cheapest way to buy large amounts of foam for cosplay. 

3. Your finest primers - I can’t stress how important this step is. Without priming your prop before painting what you end up with is a less finished product and find yourself wasting more of your spray paint on trying to cover up the foam. Not a cool move. I used mod podge, a white undercoat paint and gesso primer to prime my sword, all with different finishing results which I will explain below. 

4. Spray paint - Yes you can use normal acrylic paint here instead but I found that spray paint gives you a smoother, more even finish free of brush streaks. Again I used a couple different brands here and I’ll explain the differences between them. 

Some other necessities:

  • Hot glue gun
  • Fabric Scissors or a craft knife 
  • A saw or just a really good serrated knife (you’ll see what I mean)
  • Window sealant???? 
  • Leather stripping/ a nice leather belt

Now lets get started!!!

So first of all I started buy taking away some of the thickness of the wooden pole cause otherwise when I applied the foam the pole would show through underneath. Now guys I dont own a saw so I literally spent about an hour using a knife to saw off little sections of wood until I had a wooden pole that was half as thick as when I had started. I Also left a section at one end of the pole untouched where my handle would be. 

Next I cut out 2 generic sword shapes out of the foam and glued them together over the length of the sword. Now if like me you also dont own a good pair of scissors/ craft knife and end up with really uneven/ unsmooth edges which are not very blade like at all then I have a nifty little tip for you. 

>>>> Secret tip <<<< Window sealant works really well at filling in all the rough edges along the foams surface. I literally bought this stuff for a £1 at a 99p store and honestly it transformed how it looked instantly. 

Seee you can see all the window sealant applied to the outline of the sword, 100x better. 

Now that brings us on to priming!

So like I was explaining earlier You. Need. To. Prime. If you skip this step your sword will basically end up looking like exactly what it is, a painted piece of foam. This goes for any cosplay prop (armour, other weapons, whatever) the finished result will look a million times better just trust me. 

Here I used about 3 or 4 coats of matte mod podge (great for smoothing out any rough surfaces) and then sprayed it with a white spray paint. Though honestly dont used the brand I’ve got crossed out above, it takes about 5 coats just to produce any coverage and each can only has about 2 coats worth in it.

Instead I’d recommend using a better quality white spray paint or mixing some white paint/white gesso primer together with some mod podge (again the mod podge will help here to smooth out any brush stroke lines as it dries. 

Time to paint!

Once I left the undercoat to dry (you will need at least a couple hours between each coat and another 24 hours for the sword to dry fully) I applied a line of masking tape where I wanted to protect the section I would be later painting silver and then painted the rest pink. 

Now guys let me talk about canbrush spray paint for a sec. This shit is super cheap but still produces the smoothest, most chip proof finishing layer ever like I’m in love with it. In fact the end result is so good that when I went to apply some weathering later on I could barely get a blade to cut through it or the acrylic paint to grip onto its surface so thats why I decided to leave the the pink looking nice and slick and used a different brand for the grey paint which was a little more easy to work with. 

Again after allowing long enough to dry (otherwise good luck trying to remove masking tape off a wet layer of paint) I covered up the pink layer with masking tape and plastic bin liners and spray painted the remaining section of the sword with silver spray paint. This is what it looked like before I weathered the silver section ^^^^

And this is what it looked like after weathering. If you don’t know how to weather then heres a really cool tutorial for you. Like I mentioned before, instead of using canbrush here I used hycoat spray paint for the silver section which turned out for be much more easily manipulated and susceptible to weathering. 

On to the handle!!

Again I cut out different sections of foam and then hot glued this bad boy together. I didnt follow any template patterns for this I just went with trial and error and whatever I felt looked good but if you want a little more help on this part I can probably whip up some templates for you. The rose on the other hand (again made out of the same foam) I made following this tutorial.  

I then once again smoothed out some edges using the window sealant but this time primed the handle using a couple layers of white gesso primer mostly because I wanted the finishing result to be a little “messier” as this would help with making it look like real metal once I weathered it. 

Get a load of that handle. 

So lastly as a finishing touch, again to try a make it look a little more fancy I used an old leather belt I had lying around the house, cut off the end and buckle and wrapped it around the handle, adding a little hot glue in a couple places.

And thats it! Final results: me looking like a straight up badass. 

You guys can also add me on snapchat (dormantfig) where I usually post my my cosplay progress.  

anonymous asked:

Your touka cosplay :O is beautiful ;3 I was wondering how you wore your kagune? Like what kind of harness did you make...? ^_^ thank you and sorry

Aaah, thank you!!  And don’t be sorry, I love to talk about this stuff!  Actually, I hope you don’t mind, but I’m going to take this as an opportunity to do like a tutorial or sorts because I’m really proud of how my kagune turned out omg

MATERIALS:

- two sheets of thicker poster board (I used the ghostline stuff you can find at joannes or walmart but anything works really) 
- newspaper (a lot of it)
- glue (I used mod podge because it works GREAT)
- plastic bags
- tape
- hot glue (I went through at least 100 big sticks omg)
something to make a base out of (I used a small rectangle of upholstery foam with fabric sewn around it)
stiff jewelry wire (just a little bit, to give the kagune some stability)
a LOT of craft foam (I just went to walmart and got a big pack of foam sheets for like 5 bucks)
acrylic paint (I used black, red, yellow, and a really dark purple)
scissors
- those cheap sponge brushes (like this)
- some sort of clear sealer (I used mod podge spray)
black elastic thick enough to make straps with
- a hair dryer (if you want to give areas of the kagune a funky texture)
- fabric of some sort (only a little bit, for the base part.  I used black cotton)


INSTRUCTIONS:

 1.) Look up a ton of reference pictures and draw out the shape of the kagune on the poster board.  I did one side on each board.  Cut them out and hold them up to your body to make sure that they’re the size you want.  REMEMBER THAT YOU’RE GOING TO BE WALKING THROUGH A CONVENTION so don’t make them too huge OR YOU’RE GOING TO BE HITTING A LOT OF PEOPLE.  

2.) Make a base to attach both sides of the kagune to.  I cut a small square of upholstery foam to give it some shape since I had it sitting around but if you can find something less expensive, go for it.  I covered the foam with some black cotton and sewed around it to make a casing of sorts.  I left some fabric on both sides of the sewn “fabric rectangle” so I could attach the kagune.  Hot glue the fabric to the poster board.  I forgot to take a picture, but you can sort of see the base here: 

3.) Cut a few long pieces of the stiff jewelry wire and straighten them out.  Sew a long, thing casing out of the fabric that the pieces will all fit in snugly.  Slide the wire into the casing, and hot glue it across the center of the base, so both ends of the wire are on both sides of the poster board.  I found that this gave the kagune a little more stability and prevented it from flopping around too much…

4.) Paper mache time.  To give the kagune some dimension, I took plastic bags and bunched them up, then taped them down to the poster board.  Cut strips of newspaper, submerge them in your glue/mod podge and start laying them on the kagune shape you created until it is entirely covered.  This part takes a really long time, because you have to wait for one side to dry before you flip it over and do the back.  You might even have to do more than one layer of the paper mache on some parts, to make it really stable.  A hair dryer will help speed up this process a little if you don’t have a ton of time.  My kagune was SOLID AS HELL after this part, the paper mache really helps strengthen it.

5.) While the paper mache is drying, you can start cutting “feathers” out of the craft foam sheets.  I found that just ONE side of EACH side of the kagune needed 40-50 individual feathers, so you’ll be cutting feathers for a while.  Try to get as many feathers out of one foam sheet as possible.  It’s worth the work, because it turns out looking really cool when you have them all glued down!!

6.) Now that the paper mache is dry, you can start hot gluing the feathers down.  Start at the ends of the kagune and work towards the middle.  I layered feathers on top of each other because I thought that looked cool!  I also covered the back part of the base with feathers, but left the front part (towards my back) uncovered.  After you’re done gluing all of the feathers, the kagune will be REALLY STURDY.  

7.) Lay down some newspaper under the kagune and start painting.  I had to use a lot of coats to cover up all the different colors of the feathers underneath, and it took a few days of painting, but it turned out awesome.  I found that using a hairdryer on the paint caused it to dry with a weird texture, so I let the paint dry on its own for a smooth look.  I tried to blend each color into the next by “blotting” the paint with the sponge brush.  

8.) Once both sides are painted and dry, you can add the black veining if you’d like.  The veining is just hot glue! I painted it black when it cooled.  Try to keep your hand as steady as possible!

9.)  If you want to paint the part in the middle of the circle (I did) you can do it when the black part is dry.  I wanted to give that part a different texture from the rest, so I dried it quickly with the hair dryer.  

10.) Once everything’s dry, if you’re satisfied with how the painting looks go ahead and seal it with a few coats of the clear sealer.  I wasn’t going to do this at first because i thought it was a waste of money, but I’m SO glad that I ended up sealing my kagune.  It started raining at the convention and I had to walk outside to get to the hotel.  I was scared that my kagune was going to fall apart or that the paint was going to come off, but it got soaked and nothing happened.  DEFINITELY seal it!!  I used a glossy sealer, too, so it made the kagune shine a bit, also!

11.) Once the sealer is dry, you can add straps on the kagune.  I had no idea how I was going to do this at first, so I had to play around with different things, but I ended up making straps out of thick black elastic.  I cut two long strips and sewed two “loops” that went around both the kagune and my shoulders.  I then glued part of this loop around the kagune.  Don’t be afraid to use a lot of hot glue, you want this to hold up!!  

12.)  Wear the thing!!  Apologize if you accidentally hit anyone with it at a convention, but don’t worry about breaking it because it will be VERY STURDY.  Be aware of how much space you take up while you’re wearing it, don’t try to fit into any tight places!!  Have fun!

2

Quick + Cheap Creepy Craft: Spooky Jar Candles

Skeletons do not have pockets to keep money so cheap crafts are good for morale and the war effort!!

1. Buy or appropriate from elsewhere your home (not your parents’ dinner table ideally but if it’s in the name of Halloween…) a pillar candle, an empty jar or wine bottle (mason jars work great), glue (or mod podge, or rubber cement), and some black paint, if you want. I used chalkboard wall paint because I had extra, but you can use acrylic!

2. (Optional): Paint your jar black (or any color, really, I just went with black because it looked spookiest.)

3. Do a google search for “Halloween Potion Labels,” print out the one(s) of your choice and cut them out.

4. Glue the labels to the outside of your jars or bottles. If you use a jar, glue the label UPSIDE DOWN so that the jar has a flat top, OR keep the lid on the jar. Basically, you just need a flat surface on top for the candle to sit on. Try not to get glue on areas that will be near the flame because you don’t want to be breathing that!

5. Use a lighter or a match to carefully melt the BOTTOM of your candle a little, until it’s good and goopy. Before it cools off, stick it onto the neck of the wine bottle or the flat lid/bottom of your jar. 

6. Continue to melt the candle until it is firmly adhered; you don’t want it falling over!!

7. When they are good and stuck, place the jar candles on a piece of paper in the path of a fan on the “low” setting, not so close that the flames blow out, but enough to give the wax drip a severe angle. Always monitor your candles while they are burning! Do not anger Smoky the Bear. Or your mom/spouse/local fire department.

8. Enjoy as you usually would a candle! As you can see, my leftmost candle has been “developed” longer than the white one on the right, which I just started. Have fun, and stay spooky!