milanese fashion

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René Gruau was a fashion illustrator whose portrayal of design through painting and distinctive efficient line work has had a lasting effect on the fashion industry.

Born Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli delle Caminate in Rimini, Italy, on 4 February 1909, Gruau was the son of an Italian count but instead of following in his father’s footsteps as a royal military commander his passion and inclination for arts led him to a love and pursuance of fine arts. When René’s mother, Maria Gruau, a French aristocrat, and his father separated when he was three. He moved to Paris with her and then took his mother’s last name.  At 14, Gruau began to support his mother and himself by selling drawings to the Milanese fashion journal Lidel. Gruau became one of the best known artists of the haute couture world during the 1940s and 50s working with an assortment of high-style magazines.

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I sincerely wonder if it is possible for a man in this or any other universe to be more charming and beautifully dressed than Alessandro Squarzi.

That last outfit! Pitch perfect.

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Alfa Romeo Giulietta Punk, by Fiorucci. Presented at the Geneva Motor Show of 1978 having been created by Zagato for the Milanese fashion designer in collaboration with Ettore Sottsass and Andrea Branzi. The bumpers were redesigned and painted in blue, the same blue used for wheel covers and specially made Pirelli P6 tyres. The paintwork had a deliberate orange peel finish “created to contrast the limit between Punk and Pop”. The interior used materials from contemporary home furnishings

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Sciamat AW16 - Pitti Uomo 89 Preview

“Fit for a King” would be an accurate way to describe Sciamat’s bespoke works of art, even if the mannequins on display at their booth weren’t donning golden crowns. Carrying on what is considered by many as one of the most valuable tailoring legacies of recent years, the Ricci brothers once again presented their unique take on classic menswear and overall elegance. Despite the fewer pieces being showcased at the booth, as a result of another stand they were hosting at a nearby hotel, the essence of Sciamat was undeniably portrayed in each of their creations. 

Spread across an array of tuxedos, 3-piece suits, sports jackets and overcoats, the trademark features of the tailoring house were unveiled in a most superb fashion: fully unlined construction, massive overlapping peak lapels, roped shoulders, luxurious fabrics and the utmost attention to the slightest details. All the unique requirements that make the process of owning a Sciamat garment that more exclusive and unique. Within a mostly subdued color palette comprised of grey, navy, black and the occasional brown, hints of plaid patterns and textured fabrics stood amidst the crowd. 

Embodying the concepts of timeless elegance, the Ricci have been able to develop their unique approach to an ancient art, based on the knowledge of old but with a subtle artistic twist: in fact, it’s only when faced with such skilled craftsmanship and cut that you realize just how fundamental these concepts are in creating the most elegant of silhouettes. Whereas a solid navy or black suit are often regarded as too simplistic or uninteresting in most brands, when it comes to Sciamat, they represent the epitome of a gentleman’s uniform and of male classic elegance.

Miguel Amaral Vieira