metal eyelets

sykoyo  asked:

Do you have any tips for getting better at slopers and irregular holds? I seem to have a hard time no matter how much I try or how much I change how I try holding them.

Deadhangs! Pick some slopers on your local gym’s hangboard and do 3-5 sets of 10-15 sec hangs. Once that starts to feel easy, start adding weight.

You could also make your own pinch blocks with a couple 2x4′s, some skate tape, rope, and a couple metal eyelet things.

Stays Tutorial Part 5 (finally!)

So the last part of the tutorial is finally here! (Almost a year after I begun it!)

Your first time here? You don’t know what we are talking about? Well, take a look at the Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4 of this tutorial. The rest of us, let’s continue:

Step 14 is correct the final pattern and cut the fabric

First you have to draw the changes from the fitting on the pattern. Take a look at my mockup stays and the corrected pattern (and the best table cloth ever!): I needed a bigger armhole and changed the front to a curve, since this (with an eyelet and linen tape or ribbon) will attach the shoulder strap.

Now you have to cut the definitive stuff: 2 layers of base fabric (again!), 1 layer of the outer fabric and 1 layer of lining (linen or cotton for this, the photo is my lining).

Step 15 is sewing the boning tunnels

Remember the first part of this tutorial when you choose if you wanted visible or not visible tunnels? Well, now is the time to choose: if not visible, you’ll sew the tunnels only on the base fabric (the two layers together), if visible you’ll sew over the main and base fabrics (all three layers together). Now wait! You must sew a running stitch all around ALL your pieces of base and main fabric (I use a contrast thread to be easily taken away later).

For visible tunnels the running stitch will be set BEFORE sewing the tunnels. For not visible tunnels you’ll fix the pieces with the running stitch AFTER you sew the tunnels.

I decided I wanted visible tunnels and I sew all of them by hand (am I crazy? May be yes, what can I say). You can do it with a machine if you’re not ready for this. I used a back stitch with a tread of the same colour of the fabric (a contrast colour is prettier, but any mistake or imperfection will be clearer).

This step is probably the slowest and longest. This is how mine ended up looking (my stitches are not that perfect, but don’t judge me XD):

Step 16 is sew together the parts

We’ll do this exactly like in the part 3 of the tutorial for all the parts: iron the allowances and whip stitch (if you do it by hand) or sew and after iron the allowances (if you do it with a machine).

After doing this you’ll have 2 sets of the stays: one set of the main and base fabric and one set of the lining. Now is the time for putting in the boning. It will look like this:

Step 17 is joining both sets and finishing

Now is the time to join lining and main fabric (or lining, base and main fabric), first with a running stitch and to finish it we’ll close with a tape (if you wanna be historically accurate it may be a silk ribbon or something liek that) or with a bias tape that you can buy or cut from the same main fabric (which will be easier to set).

First I set it with pins and after that I put a running stitch all around (here are photos from outside and inside):

Then you can cut the bottom tabs open and set the the tape. But i didn’t take a photo of that. Because of course. BUT you can see THIS VIDEO of how to bind, it’s just like binding a quilt and this woman explains it very easily. Just be careful with the corners.VERY CAREFUL. What I do if it’s too difficult is set the tape with a running stitch, then set it with machine (or by hand) and then fold it back and close with an invisible stitch (which is what I did here).

Step 16 is make the eyelets

There are basically two options here: make eyelets by hand or set metal eyelets. I set metal eyelets because I suck at making eyelets and buttonholes by hand, so I decided to avoid the ugly results. Now let’s be careful about the way you’ll mark the eyelets since they are not supposed to be perfectly symmetrical. Do it like this:

And this is how the shoulder strap eyelet looks like (I love to tie a little ribbon there, even if no one will see it!):

Now that it is finished I think I should have used a contrasting binding, maybe baby pink. The ribbon I used today is mint, but I like to use a pink one (sorry I do not know where did I put it XD). And it is finished. One of these days I’ll show how it looks like on, but if you make your own stays, please show us how does it look like!

Have fun sewing everyone <3

Originally posted by nitratediva


Rare personal post…..

Since my financial situation hasn’t improved much (meaning I’ve got a contract and a job, but won’t get paid any money because it is on hold for some stupid internal city council reasons, and no one knows when it will become available), I have to take some drastic measures.

I don’t want to beg for donations, hence I am selling some of my costumes:

Top to bottom: Arwen-style Elven dress; Éowyn’s Refugee Gown; Viking / Medieval style Gown. Please read the descriptions for more info.

Arwen Gown:

Floor-length, trained gown made from luscious silk/rayon velvet in midnight black. Huge bell sleeves made from sheer yellow fabric with flocked-on flowers, lined in the most gorgeous golden yellow habotai silk. Neckline was hand-beaded with yellow/iridescent small tube beads. Chiffon-and-silk beaded trim with tiny sequins and silver embroidery. Metal eyelets for lacing up at the back. Overall length 167 cm excluding train. UK size 10-12; European 38-40; US 6-8. Please contact me for any measurements you might need.
Price: $240 plus shipping.

Éowyn Gown:

Two-part dress; underdress uses the same fabric that was used for the original movie gown. Sky blue with gold threads, gold detail lacing at the back and wrists. Overdress made from brown wool imitation fabric with braid detail at the neckline and side lacing at the waist. Overdress is slightly shorter than underdress. Overall length 164 cm. UK size 8-10; European 36-38; US 4-6. Might also fit one size down due to the lacing. Please contact me for any measurements you might need.
Price: $180 plus shipping.

Viking Gown:

Two part dress made from heavy duty linen with hand woven trim at the neckline and hem. Dark blue “tabard” style overdress with side lacing and rectangular neckline. Underdress from nature coloured linen, long sleeves, simple pull-over style. Slighty longer at the sides than at back and front. Overall length 166 ccm. UK size 12; European 40; US 8. Might also fit half a size up or one size down due to the lacing.
Please contact me for any measurements you might need.
Price: $90 plus shipping.

All dresses have been worn once, were cleaned and stored in a dry, cool place. I am 167 cm tall myself and all the gowns were more or less floor length on me depending on the shoes worn. I’ll happily take measurements off the garments should you want to check back with your own.

I have a Paypal account and I ship to anywhere in the world! I’ll try to figure out the cheapest shipping rate for you (I ship from Europe). If you buy more than 1 gown, shipping is free.

I really hate to see them go for they were made with love and passion in hours of work, using only the best fabrics available; but as to date I have been without any money for 4 months and I am not really sure my boss is going to pay me at all. I have rent and bills to pay, two cats to feed and I just can’t go on like this…so I’ll part way with those babies and hope they’ll find a good new home.

Thank you for reading this. If you can’t buy or they don’t fit, please at least reblog the shit out of this ;-) Thanks!!!

P.S.: If none of those fits and you still want one, I could also sew one for you….

envy-and-pride  asked:

hi ! where did you find the nike air max goadome with the straps that's on the picture you posted ? Cause when checking the site the shoe is there but there's no strap with it

These are women’s boot for Holiday 2017. It features metal eyelets, adjustable straps and full-grain, water-resistant leather. Release date was October 1 at select retailers in North America.



I’m not having a good day.

I know what went wrong, the fabric is too thin and prone to tearing to hold eyelets. But I’ve used this fabric as a base for several foundation garments because I felt the weave made it durable, and they’ve been absolutely fine.

I thought three layers (a layer wrapped over a quilted strip) would be fine. I’ve had issues with metal eyelets in the past so I shrugged that failure off and decided to hand sew them, only to have this happen….

I’ve never had hand stitched eyelets tear out of a garment. Even garments made from a layer of organza and chiffon which are the most delicate fabrics. Seriously wtf.

The River

This started out as a gift to my friends at the USS Caryl. Many, many, many people have asked me to write a caryl love scene. And I was always uncertain. I tried over Christmas, but it didn’t gel. Somehow, this week, an idea captured my interest. It’s pretty tame by fic standards, but perhaps not something you should read out loud at work.

I give to you, my friends, a one-shot I’m pretty proud of, called “The River.”

Keep reading