The opportunity to browse Sciamat’s creations is one that resembles a nirvana-esque experience for any menswear enthusiast, let alone those truly encompassed by the sartorial universe. Mind you, I’m no authority when it comes to bespoke: I am however, wholeheartedly passionate about the art of tailoring, its different schools and evolution, thus my eagerness to learn is what drives me on a continuous pursuit of empiric knowledge. The thing about Sciamat and the vision Valentino and Nicola Ricci materialize into each garment, is that its uniqueness is equally fresh for a native Italian gentleman, as for any foreigner (virtually) unacquainted with Neapolitan tailoring.
The array of exquisitely crafted unlined/unstructured jackets portray an unparalleled fluidity, a trait not commonly associated with suiting. The lightness and movement on each jacket is a thing of beauty, especially when you actually put it on and let it adjust to your torso feeling like a second skin. This whole sensation is highlighted by the ease and curated carelessness with which Nicola handles the jackets: knowing its intricacies, he treats them with respect and care, without ever losing track of their clothing essence and the fact they’re meant to be worn, folded, pulled and subject to stress. These masterpieces are not to be on display, they are meant to bring their wearers an ultimate sense of confidence and elegance.
To top it off, Sciamat keeps on exploring new boundaries in what regards fabric and pattern combinations, with somewhat unusual scales blending together to achieve perfection. Their concept of style and elegance is anything but static, as shown by the mix of contemporary elements incorporated into the outfits on the mannequins, such as bold plaids and stripes suits mixed with denim shirts with a polished twist. The remaining ingredients for that flawless look? The inherent nonchalance they sport each look with…the real sprezzatura…
At some point in your life as a grownup, you will purchase pants that come with an unfinished hem. They will probably sit in your closet unworn, for a couple of weeks at least, as you forget to bring them to the alterations tailor day after day.
When you finally get them to the tailor, he or she will interrogate you about what you want done to the ends of your pants. Your tailor’s questions are typical of menswear, in that there is a range of answers consistent historical norms, but absolutely any answer is bound to enrage a menswear enthusiast somewhere. This inevitability is one of the great pleasures of dressing. This article attempts to prepare you for the choices that lie ahead (or below?), and suggest whose hackles you might enjoy raising the most.
Hate it or love it, the internet’s most controversial hat (save maybe Pharrel’s Vivienne Westwood “Grammy hat”) doesn’t seem to be going anywhere. Year after year the bucket hat lives on, from Gilligan in the mid 60’s, to rappers of the mid 80s, and now today with Japanese-Americana menswear enthusiasts. I’ll admit that I didn’t always “get” it, but I fell in love the instant I tried one on. Why? I mean a) too lazy to do my hair, b) goes better than a snapback with some outfits, c) it’s actually functional for keeping you cool, and d) I just love the look.
I chose to style my bucket hat with a workewear/fisher-dude vibe in a thrifted denim vest and some dropcrotch cotton pants. The perfect accessories for this look include my new handwoven Japanese sashiko and chambray split bandana by Kiriko and this handsomely rugged leather bracelet from the amazing new Coach + Philip Crangi collaboration.
Below are some of my favorite looks that demonstrate more ways you can rock a bucket hat with style this spring.
(L to R: Billy Reid S14, Shades Of Grey S14, Visvim S13, Billy Reid S14, Shades of Grey S14)
Hey, you! I’m Traz @ allthingstraz
A novice menswear enthusiast from Los Angeles. Follow me on Instagram @allthingstraz and see if you like what I do. Come inspire and be inspired for my favorite season 🍂🍁🍂