mccall's pattern

The Housecoat

Working on my manuscript for The Lost Art of Dress, a copy-editor queried me: What is a housecoat? Like the housedress, the housecoat has a bad reputation, if it has any reputation at all, as something frumpy, worn by women who cannot bother to get dressed or even groomed. But it once was, as you see from this 1952 pattern, a natty garment indeed. Often floor-length, the housecoat was distinguished from the negligee by its more substantial fabrics, whether finer fabrics like satin or velveteen, or casual ones like seersucker or flannel, or even quilted fabric for winter. Long skirts, by the way, on an evening gown or a housecoat will keep you much warmer in the winter than short ones 

The housecoat was often cut as carefully as a dress–notice the tucks at the waist, the gored skirt, and the scalloped collar–and fastened more securely than a mere bath robe–see the buttons on the blue version. McCall’s Patterns called this version a “Brunch Coat” because it was something you could wear when you hosted good friends for an intimate weekend morning meal. Notice the pushed-up sleeves, so you can do some kitchen work without messing them up. I haven’t made this one yet, but the long blue version, sans scallops, is one of my goals.

Cosplay 101: Using Patterns

Some cosplayers/costumers prefer making their own patterns while others rely on factory made patterns.  Myself?  I’m in the middle.  I do both and I also alter factory made patterns to fit my needs.  Whatever your preferred method may be, here’s a tidbit of info on the patterns offered out there. 

If you just aren’t into making your own patterns or know where to start, factory made patterns may be your best option.  But which brand should you use?!  There are quite a few brands available and each one has it’s pros and cons. 

Simplicity - As the name suggests, Simplicity makes beginner friendly patterns.  The instructions are easy to follow and include illustrations with each step (for the most part).  If you’ve never used a pattern in your life, I recommend starting here.  They have a great selection and also offer historically accurate patterns!

Vogue - The best part about Vogue is that they have a skill level for each available pattern: Very Easy, Easy, Average and Advanced.  And trust me when they say “advanced” they mean it!  Make sure you’re comfortable using patterns before venturing into this skill level.  The instructions with Vogue are a bit harder to follow than most but not terribly difficult.  Vogue also offers a lot of vintage inspired patterns and actual vintage patterns from their own line!  Again, check your skill level rating!

McCalls/Butterick - I grouped these two together because they are very similar.  They have some great clothing patterns but when it comes to costumes, the quality of the pattern is definitely “costume” quality.  You may find yourself making more alterations than you wanted when using McCalls or Butterick costume patterns.  Still, both companies are OK for beginners.

Kwik Sew - Need dance wear or intimate-type apparel?  Kwik Sew is great!  I’ve used many of their patterns and I personally love that they are printed on paper and not tissue.  Kwik Sew is on a intermediate level, you definitely need experience before picking up one of these.

Burda - I love the designs that Burda offers but let me tell you, these are the MOST difficult patterns to follow.  They do not include illustrations and the directions are all over the place.  When I use Burda, I usually only do so when planning to alter a pattern.  They are not beginner friendly and I wouldn’t even put them in the intermediate level.  You may want to look at one out of the package before committing to purchase!  That being said, they also offer some really nice historical patterns and world fashions.

That covers the most popular brands!  And remember if you can’t find a pattern out there for your project, don’t be afraid to try sketching your own!  There are tons of tutorials and online classes to guide you in the right direction.  You may even find a class offered at your local craft store.  The best way to try pattern making is to do just that, TRY IT!  It’s not as hard as you think. ;)

anonymous asked:

Do you think Stilinski could be Claudia's maiden name and the Sheriff took it when they got married? Stilinski is Polish and we know Claudia is canonically Polish but it's never said if the Sheriff is too. And then we have the Yukimura's were Ken did take Noshiko's last name. Also Melissa keeping McCall even after divorcing Rafael. I just think there's enough evidence pointing to it being Claudia's maiden name.

There is hardly any evidence at all concerning Claudia and certainly not her maiden name. All we know is that she died, that she was Polish and that Stiles is named after her dad, something the sheriff tells coach in episode 1x05.

I suppose it is possible, but it’s not really all that common. I think it’s more common to hyphenate than to choose the woman’s last name. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be done, and the idea is presented to  us through the Yukimuras.

Scott: Yukimura is Japanese, right? 
Mrs Yukimura: Mmm-hmm. 
Mr Yukimura : Yes. Yes, but I’m actually Korean. When my wife and I married, I took her name, as she was the only surviving member of her family. 
Scott: You didn’t want to take both names? 
Mr Yukimura : We were married in Japan, where the law says that the couple must share the same name. To belong to the same koseki. My wife’s lineage is quite unique. I was actually going to discuss it in class. 
Kira: Please don’t. 
Mrs Yukimura : Kira. You should be proud of your heritage. It was a profound honor to join your mother’s family.

 If Claudia has links to the supernatural, names might be important and she might have insisted on keeping her surname, and also naming Stiles. The conversation with the Yukimuras alludes to them choosing her name because she was a Kitsune. Also Claudia could be the last surviving of her line as well. 

Coach did comment “You must really love you’re wife very much” when he say Stiles’ first name on the journal, which the sheriff confirmed that he did. Perhaps enough to give up his own surname. 

Scott did ask Melissa why she kept McCall after she got divorced, so the show has gone to great lengths to highlight the topic of surnames and choice - choosing the name that you want and not the name you should take according to tradition. 

Scott: Mom, can I ask you something? 
Melissa: Yeah. 
Scott: Why didn’t you How come you never changed your name back to Delgado? 
Melissa: Do you mean, why did I keep your father’s name? 
Scott: Yeah. 
Melissa: Yeah. Because it’s your name, too, honey. I gotta go, sweetheart, okay? I love you. 

The Yukimuras is one, the McCalls twice, we only need a third to confirm a pattern of three with regards to unconventional surname choices. Perhaps it is the Stilinskis?

Interesting idea, thanks for sharing.