Maverick’s was particularly ugly this morning with strong NW winds. It was a dying swell and not really that good by Maverick’s standards. In between feeling seasick and freezing cold, Bud Frietas (who was driving the ski) and myself drove way out past the break to shoot some of the offshore spray blowing off the waves. It’s crazy how much water is moving over that reef during a swell and even crazier to think that this wave is considered an insider and no one even paddled for it. Pictures never do it justice.
“ Fear and panic are two separate emotions. Fear is healthy, panic is deadly. You better ask yourself, what do you want to leave behind ? The truth of who you really are.. or just some words on a page ? All that stuff that’s burning deep down inside of you, what is that ? That stuff you can’t even look at because it scares you too much.
What are you afraid of ? You’ve got a chance to change everything. Take it […] This is about choices you make in life. This is about finding that one thing that sets you free. You need to believe in yourself or none of this matters. ”
What are you afraid of? You’ve got a chance to change everything. Take It. This is about more then just surfing. This is about choices you make in life. This is about finding that one thing that sets you free. You need to believe in yourself or none of this matters.
We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again, until the day we don’t come back leaving only that which was touched along the way. Frosty Hesson