master-tailor

How to Ruin the Holidays - a While You Were Sleeping AU, ch. 1 (1/3)

CS AU: Kids, this is the story of how Killian Jones ruined Christmas, Emma Swan ruined New Year’s Eve and how they fell in love in between.

Because I have no restrain, as @sambethe and @nowforruin can attest to. 

Dedicated to the wonderful @blessed-but-distressed, a small little thing from me to her, so she could remember how cherished and treasured she is this holiday season.

This is unbeated, so please excuse all mistakes and terrible grammar that might come your way. 

Ao3     FF.net

Chapter 1

The best time of Killian’s day, Mondays to Fridays, was between 8.01am and 8.15am, when she would pass through his booth on the way to the train. Blond hair, slender figure cut in beautiful tailored suits, mastering a power walk with her high heels, standing on the platform checking her phone or the newspaper as she waited for her train. A complete vision.  

His princess.

One day, he will finally find the courage to talk to her. And it would be perfect, just like fairytales.

But as he hid his missing hand from view and got lost into her eyes while she handed him her token, he knew today was not that day.

Perhaps tomorrow. Or the next.

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James Williams of “A Stylish Way Of Life” wearing a double breasted suit that was made for his father in 1971.  The suite was re-cut for him by Master Tailor Halim over 10 years ago.  James is the owner of “A Stylish Way Of Life” which produces Made-To-Order (All Handmade) Linen, Wool and Cashmere pocket squares.   

When Jo Du’s dress broke just before her wedding, none of the guests could fix the zipper, and all the tailors were closed. Luckily, her neighbors were hosting a family of Syrian refugees, and the father was a master tailor who’d practiced in Aleppo for almost 30 years. Despite not speaking a word of English, he showed up with his sewing kit and happily repaired her dress in minutes. source

image via theguardian

anonymous asked:

Mr. Kench, you stitched two coats to make one fit your right? How'd you do it? I mean you have huge hands (no offense @_@"), did you use magic or something? was it frustrating trying to put the thread in the eye of the needle?

“Now let me tell y’all the tale about my coat, ‘cause despite appearances, it sure is one helluva story this coat has.

You’re quite correct, and I ain’t gonna take offence and you statin’ the size of my hands– in this form they’re more like claws, to be sure, and they perform the duty of claws far better than they do hands.
With claws like this, you’re right– it ain’t easy stitchin’, and although I’ve done in the past when pressed, I ain’t exactly a master seamstress.

No, when I figured out clothes were a good thing to wear I had no need for a master tailor. The only things I needed were the good folks of the Serpentine. My people. My kin, and my subjects. 

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7

WHO AND WHAT IS TAILOR CAID


Tailor CAID is Yamamoto-san, a master tailor based in Tokyo, who specializes in American Ivy Style (think Mad Men) but is also very capable of other styles. He is a bespoke tailor in the truest sense of the word, tweaking every detail specifically for each individual customer. He excels in creating drape in the chest of his garments, bringing every jacket to life.


I shot some photos to illustrate the gamut of what Yamamoto-san can do:


On the left, an American Ivy Style three button suit. It features a slim lapel, straight, cutaway quarters and a soft shoulder. It has no darts in the body, making the silhouette  This particular suit was made in a royal blue herringbone. This suit is designed for business use, eschewing sporty details, such as swelled edges at the lapel, and keeping it simple.


Second from left, an American Ivy Style three button suit but made-up in a much sportier cloth and with details to match. The cloth is a very textured grey herringbone tweed. The lapels, while the same size as the business suit from earlier, have swelled edges and the pockets are done as patches with flaps. The suit is great for everyday use and the jacket and vest can be split off for use on their own in more casual outfits with denim or odd trousers.


In the center, a 30’s style peak lapelled suit. It has wide, straight lapels with a large collar. The chest is draped and there are darts in the body, giving a very defined silhouette. The cloth is a medium weight wool mohair in navy. It is a perfect suit for occasions and events.


Second from the right, is another 30’s style, known as the “paddock jacket”, later popularized by John F Kennedy. Paddock jackets are two button jackets with both buttons designed to be buttoned at the same time, rather than the commonly seen middle button only configuration. The cloth is an unusual design, a country pattern but in cooler, city colours.


All the way to the right is a suit in the same configuration as the grey herringbone tweed but in an aubergine wool/cashmere mix. The jacket was done as a typical sport jacket, with swelled edges and patch with flap pockets. The jacket alone could be worn very beautifully with grey flannel trousers. Not the most practical suit in the world, but certainly unusual and beautiful in its own way, as you’d expect from bespoke!


Tailor CAID’s overcoat is distinctive as well, based on the box coat from the 50’s. It features distinctive details such as swelled edges, a forward-set ticket pocket and turnback cuffs. The length extends to below the knee. It is a dramatic coat, beautiful in motion. It works well as a casual coat in heavy tweeds as pictured or it could be a serious workhorse in navy wool herringbone.


TRUNK SHOW AT THE ARMOURY NYC SEP 15 - 17

APPOINTMENTS CAN BE MADE AT TRIBECA@THEARMOURY.COM

Tutorial on how to farm the Denku / Tomul Skin

I’ve got asked many time how do you get thoses skins, how much it cost me, where to farm ect ect…

So first… as an Asmodian I’m sorry but I can only talk about my Side and Area but Elyos shouldn’t be too different !

Now this skin, it’s not a drop from a rare boss spawn or from a hard instance, like ANYONE can get it just require a bit of work !

let’s get started : 

-First go to Levinshor = > how ? port to Katalam and talk to the NPC named Klundis 

-Now if you are a master Tailor or Armorsmith then AWESOME ! You can make it yourself ( it will cost you 16,5 M kinah just for the design ( for one set, if you wanna make Denku AND Tomul then it’s 33 M kinah :D )  

If you’re not, no worries you can always buy the design and trade it to a friend or someone that can make it for you because the item once crafted is tradeable ( soulbindable tho ( yes I like to make my own word ))

also it doesnt matter what type of armor you can wear because it can be skinned on anything !

Let’s look at the mats now !

the patern is pretty simple  you will need 

Chest or Hat  :

  •  Pure Katalium x 10
  • Splendiferous Rawhide x 10
  • Valiance Mote x 25
  • Forest Denku’s Chest ( or hat ) Token x 5
  • Forest Denku’s Chest ( or hat ) Crux x 5     

Pants : 

  •  Pure Katalium x 8
  • Splendiferous Rawhide x 8
  • Harmony Mote x 35
  • Forest Denku’s Leg Token x 4
  • Forest Denku’s Leg Crux x 4     

Gloves or Shoes or Shoulders : 

  •  Pure Katalium x 5
  • Splendiferous Rawhide x 5
  • Unity Mote or Protection Mote or Vigor Mote  x 35
  • Forest Denku’s Gloves ( or Shoulder or Foot Token ) x 3
  • Forest Denku's Gloves ( or Shoulder or Foot Token ) x 3

not hard ? just wait….

where do we find the Mote ? 

In Levinshor ! they are world drop ( try to check Broker ! )

where do we find the Token ?

In Levinshor too ! 

so let’s look at the map now 

yes… I know what you will tell me ! IT’S ALL RED AND GREEN !! I know :’( my faction doesn’t like to pve much :< 

soooo yeah

Thoses bases right here we need them !

Why ?

Well each base has a NPC that sell the different Token you will need to farm the set 

how do we get the cruxes ? 

SO this is the fun part ( or not -_- ’) !

for this item we need the bases ( again ? ) YES ! 

BECAUSE ! did you noticed the circle around each bases ? they have color !

When you capture one base, little Denku ( thoses blue foxes/ racoon thingy ) [ this is for asmodian side ]  will spawn and if you capture more base who have the same color circle around them, then you will increase the number and type of Denku to spawn and the drop rate will be increased too !

why do I need the Denku to spawn tho ?

Because they drop the Ancestor Relic ( aka st graal ) and you will need this Relic later on 

now to flip thoses base…. the one marked with a pink cross have an Elite warcaptain and it has a shit load of HP :< you can’t solo them either they reset very easily 

The one I marked with a blue cross have a non elite warcaptain, you should be able to solo them 

the middle base count for 3 base btw 

when you capture 1 base 2 type of denku will spawn : the assasin denku and the tank denku

when you capture 2 bases 3 type of denku will spawn : the assasin denku, the tank denku and the mage denku

when you capture 3 bases 4 type of denku will spawn : the assasin denku, the tank denku, the mage denku and the healer denku

 

more bases you will own and higher the drop rate will be 

BUT the balaur will try to flip them very often so you guys need to keep an eye on your base

they drop nice stuff too :

but what you are looking for is this : 

I SHALL WARN YOU NOW ! this is a very LOW DROP RATE !

I have been farming 5 hours sometimes and I didn’t get any…. but don’t give up maybe the next day you might get lucky and loot 2 !

if you can get like 3 in a week it’s really good !

I would advice you to watch TV show or Anime while you farm it gets pretty boring :<

once you loot your relic ( YAY ) you will need to go to the spot called Vocalith

to spawn the boss ( woot fun finaly !!! )

Click on it ( with your relic in your bag !! ) and say yes BUT BEFORE DOING THAT MAKE A PARTY !!! 

the boss will drop ONLY ONE CRUX and it’s a RANDOM one ( yeah ofc it’s random T_T

when you make the group just set it up to leader loot

then why people will come help me then ?  

Because the boss will drop a bundle and everybody can loot it ( can be also done in an aliance so more bundle to loot :D ) and the bundle can give ancient coins, or composite manastone, Indian and maybe an orange weapon ( you can sell it or D/E it up to you ) 

if you loot a crux you didn’t need you can always sell it on broker or give it to your friends

Voilà :D I hope I didn’t forget anything and hope this was helpfull AND THAT IT WILL MOTIVATE THE SIEL ASMODIAN TO FARM A BIT !!!

<3

                                                                             XoXo Lilith from Siel ~

3

Balance + Shoulder fit

We at B&TAILOR spend most of our time getting the fit of the shoulder and the balance of the jacket right, during fittings (especially at baste and forward fittings).

What I mean by the shoulder fit? The shoulder of the jacket being laid at an angle perpendicular to the ‘overall’ angle of the wearer’s shoulder, and this angle is not 2 dimensional. It also has to account for the wearer’s clavicle shapes and positions but also adjoining flesh and its position and angles in respect to the rest of the upper body. Any bumps or hollows will have to be also accounted for and smoothed out the best they can be.

The balance of the jacket does not simply mean that either end is too short or too long (that is only one of the consequences of the incorrectly balanced jacket). The correct balance is achieved, in a simplistic sense, when a jacket is in perfect balance with the wearer’s stance, perfectly accounting for his or her posture (forward, back or neutral) and the body contours- so that the jacket sits squarely and firmly on the wearer from the collar to the shoulders to the rest, and all the panels of the jacket is in the right angle/position to the body.

The main reason that we do fittings is to achieve the above plus the sleeve pitch (will be discussed on a separate post) right, every time and all the time - one of the main differences to MTM garments that are pre-made.

I have described the both shoulder fit and the balance in a way that I personally think that it would make sense to a lot of people however there are many more aspects of the fit and balance that warrant further discussions (for people who are more interested in such topics).

I am planning to illustrate the above in more depth with actual baste fitting examples in future.

-JH