FROM THE VAULT (SUMMER 2011)
Those things you lust over that aren’t clothes but the bits that go with the clothes, you know the bag, the shoes, the jewels. Well ever wondered what fantastical creature dreamt them up? Well, allow us to enlighten you. It was probably one of these here ladies.
Maria Francesca Pepe - The Jeweller:
“I’m rather selective and critical in my choices. But I do have a thing for buying pink stuff which I do often regret afterwards.” Meet Maria, designer of jewels and clothes, learning to steer clear of anything pink one step at a time.
WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON AT THE MOMENT?
“I am at that stage when after the fashion weeks I look at myself and what I have done. I am in contemplation. Besides dealing with all the rest that comes at this time of the year (sales, launch production, press days etc). Soon I know I will feel that urge to go back to design: so I am collecting things, ideas, feedback to arrive well prepared to that moment.”
WHAT’S EASIER? DESIGNING JEWELLERY OR DESIGNING CLOTHES?
“When I design jewellery I do not feel restricted to certain fitting rules and the construction process is much more straight forward. What you can draw on paper is most likely what the final piece will look like, plus you can play with elements and tools. Designing clothes requires patience and most of the time the result is in the process, so I guess is less emotionally immediate. At least for me. … Not sure what’s easier though.”
YOU’VE ALSO WORKED AS A PRINT DESIGNER? DOES YOUR WORK IN PRINT INFLUENCE YOUR JEWELLERY AND CLOTHING DESIGNS?
“My work in printing has always been limited to the graphic part. I’m not a technician. I work on prints for my jersey range and it’s funny. I often use photos of my jewellery to create the prints, so you know… if you cannot afford the actual thing you can still wear it on a t-shirt! In my college days I would take snaps of expensive pieces I liked from books and shops, and print them on cotton stripes to make fabric-jewellery. This season I have studded and pierced with crystals and pearls the faces of vintage sexy icons such as James Dean, Rita Hayworth, Theda Bara.”
DO YOU HAVE ANYONE PARTICULAR IN MIND WHEN YOU DESIGN? OR DO YOU JUST MAKE THINGS FOR YOURSELF?
“I am quite solipsistic and auto referential in my work, so I’d go with my emotions. Although I am learning to be more aware of commercial values and not to feel restricted by it. I am starting to think not only of me wearing this or that, but also to MFP customers and celebrities who represent my brand.”
DESCRIBE YOUR WORK.
“I often got described as avant-garde and gothic. I like luxury when it gets dirty and contaminated. But I do also like classic stuff that never looks overdone.”
by Natalie Dembinska
Photograph by Maria Ziegelboeck - www.mariaziegelboeck.com