First thing is a really good shave. I go against the grain a little with the razor to get it really close to the skin, it makes stubble much easier to hide. After that I moisturise to keep the skin hydrated and soft - it really helps to have nice skin before applying makeup.
Next is a primer to help the foundation sit- I currently use a Sephora photo ready primer as it’s cheap. I’ve got a mac one for special uses. On top of this I apply an orange colour corrector to hide the blue of the stubble, then use a sponge to even it out. I then powder this with a setting powder to seal it.
The foundation I use here is Mac Pro full coverage foundation which is a creme foundation, very opaque. I use a sponge to apply this, trying to get a good coverage and even out the skin tone, to create a blank canvas. Once this is on, I use a buffing brush to smooth it all out (this step is important).
Usually I go for the brows next - that could be a whole other post. Powder first to remove moisture, then I use Anastacia Beverly Hills dip brow and a small angled brush to draw them in, and elongate the tail.
I do contour in two stages -wet using a stick, and dry with a powder. The stick I have has light on one side for highlight, and shadow on the other, this one was from Etude House which is Korean. I draw where I want to shade/highlight then carefully blend with a sponge.
2nd part of contour I usually do later.
For eyes I first prime with urban decay primer, to help the shadow stay. For this one I used the urban decay Naked 2 palette, I’d recommend that. Use a round brush to apply gold on the lid, then a darker colour into the crease, then blend with a Mac 217. A lighter colour on the browbone and inner corner of the eyes too. Used a bit of gold under the eye too.
I use Maybelline gel liner, I find this is a really good drugstore level product. It takes practice but is worth it.to do the wings. Kohl pencil on the lashlines, smudge the lower one slightly.
Now I go for the second lot of contour - starting with shadow and building that up where I want to minimise areas - in my case the jawline. Big tip for blending - my MUA friend told me to blend like into like, so powder into powders, creme into creme. For this I use a light powder to act as a lighter tone to blend into. I apply highlight on top of this, mostly on cheekbone. After this blending where needed with a soft brush. (notice how much I mention blending? This shit’s important).
I put blush on next, this one is a mac one, using a blusher brush. I avoid too much, it’s just to add a bit of colour.
When I’m happy with my face shape, I apply a layer of powder. This sets it, and helps get that airbrushed type look.
Lips are the last thing, this is a Mac retro matte lipstick, I didn’t use lip liner here but I should have really to help get a better line. I seal this by pressing a piece of kitchen towel on them to get rid of any excess.
Also lighting is really important, there was lovely soft morning light here which is great for photos. It’s much harder to get a good look using artificial light.
Hope this helps any of you who are wondering what to do with makeup. The above takes me about 45 minutes, would take longer but certain things such as contour are pretty much in memory.
Was inspired by the makeup look I saw on quite a lot of fashionable young women when I was in Tokyo recently.
Instead of eyes or lips, they favored a rather exaggerated flushed cheek as the focal point of their makeup. But it wasn’t just a case of slapping on a load of blusher. There’s a specific look where they mimic a glowy, radiant effect and the blush color is intense but not heavy or dark looking. If you’re extremely fair-skinned, you just need to apply a very neon-colored blush over face powder.
Extra Tip: Bring your blush just a tiny bit in closer towards your nose than usual. This helps exaggerate that cute wind-blown, doll-like effect, instead of the typical blush along the cheekbones.
If you’re not porcelain (and most of us aren’t), you can imitate that effect easily by applying a matte or semi-matte pale highlighter or blush as a color base for a brighter, more intense blush to “float” and look more color-true on top of it. If you own those multi-color blushes with a paler shade, that’s perfect for this use.