Another argument for custom ties. This Japanese cotton fabric has a large colorful print. The client wanted to pick the portion that would be visible on the blade of his tie so I cut this stencil for him. The only restriction placed on the client is to place the stencil at 45 degree angle to the selvage.
A lot has been said about the basic tie wardrobe. It is very tempting to buy the stand out colorful crazy print when starting to build the tie wardrobe. A few of those are great as accents in a collection. But because they are so memorable, I find that I don’t wear them as often and really only a few times each year. It is a sign when people say, “I remember that tie!”
The men who are consistently the best dressed build their collection on ties of high quality and simple patterns. These ties will complement shirts and suits of different patterns, textures, and shades. Avoiding the problem of having one tie to go with one suit and shirt combination. It will help put together a varied wardrobe where people will notice that you are always well dressed without necessarily paying attention to a stand out piece.
The top row above starts with solids in navy, purple, silver, green, and burgundy. It is no secret that I like solid ties. I have them in silk repp, grenadine, and silk moire. They go with everything and are the most versatile. Don’t pass up solids because they look simple. They will tie patterned shirts and suits together like no other piece.
After that are stripes in grey, navy and green with a red and blue block stripe. If you have solids taken care of, stripes in these colors are a good way to expand the collection. It can be a subtle way to express yourself with school, club, or society affiliations.
Pin dots are next in navy and burgundy. The yellow is thrown in for fun and was a special request for a client. It is subdued in person with a pale yellow. Pin dot’s versatility is second only to solids and will be a go to piece in the collection.
Everyone needs a black satin bow tie. Enough said about that. Start out with these basic pieces and look good everyday.
Greg handmakes his ties at his home in San Francisco. I called him up and asked if he could do something with some remnant fresco, he said sure, and then had an idea for the selvedge - a discreet homage to the fabric, visible only to the wearer.
And singer Jack, 18, thinks that Spice Girl Mel didn’t make the right judgements about his song choices.
He said: “I didn’t really like the song choices.
“Louis really believed in me though, he wanted me to do my own style. That’s what I wanted to do, and I should have stuck to that.
“I’ve got massive support from him, he’s been a massive help throughout the competition telling me what I should sing. I wish I had listened to him a little bit more. He’s been so involved. I trusted his judgment more than Mel B.
“He’s been there before, done it all. Mel B was honest but I didn’t quite get what she was trying to get out of me. I was doing completely different stuff every week. I just felt like I should stick to one type of style which is my own style and what I do at gigs.”
I have enjoyed making leather goods for the last three years. It started with a canvas and leather messenger bag made on a machine and developed into completely hand made wallets like the ones above.
There is no substitute for time and concentrated effort when it comes to leather. A mistake is easily fixed with a seem ripper or razor blade when working with fabric. But one mistake in leather means scrapping the one part you are working on in the best case or starting the entire piece over in the worst case. Every hole that is punched and cut that is made must be both precise and accurate.
Great attention is paid to details by lining each piece with leather and finishing all raw edges to produce a finished look. This approach is so time intensive that the four pocket card holder in the top row above takes about six hours from the time the leather is cut to completion. Of the six hours, edge finishing alone takes 90 minutes. No time is spared as each piece is cut by hand with a sharp blade and every stitching mark is carefully punched before stitching.
To start, the focus of the leather program will be thin practical card holders that will not break the lines of tailored clothing. Eventually document holders, notebook covers, and portfolios will be available for order.
Stock is limited because of the time it takes to make each piece. Starting November 4, leather items will be available for purchase at LouisWalton.com. There will also be a small offering of wallets in Wingtip’s bespoke basement if you would like to pick one up or meet with me to design a custom item.
Attributed to William H. Rau (American, 1855-1920) Frozen Falls, Watkins Glen, NY, transparency, gelatin on glass, ca. 1900, Gift of 3M Company; ex collection Louis Walton Sipley, George Eastman House Collection