If there’s one thing that we love (besides our customers, obvs) it’s midi skirts. They’re kind of a big deal around here, and we’ve loved celebrating midi moments with you on #XOQ. You’ve shown us how you wear midi skirts to the office, church, date night, brunch, art galleries, and at more important moments in your life. Every time you upload a photo, our entire team fawns over your awesome style. Inspired by you, we’ve created #MidiMoment, a new campaign that celebrates all the versatile ways midis can be worn and the ladies who love them.
One of the things that bothers me the most about people slut-shaming Zakiyah, it’s not just Natalie or even just the people in the house, is that they act like she had sex with herself. Paulie had sex on the livefeeds too but no one says one negative thing about him doing it. I hate that women get judge and criticize for consenting to sex/sexual favors. Who gives a shit? Let women live.
Backstage Liz Black LFW Show with Face Lace @SpindleMagazine
This weekend I was lucky enough to go exclusively backstage for Spindle at the Liz Black LFW Presentation in connection with Fashion Scout. Upon arriving at Freemasons Hall I walked upstairs and straight into the madness that is the hair and makeup room; pre-show events are generally a little less chaotic than the full on LFW shows but things were definitely in full swing!
Hair stylists were pulling back models’ hair into tight elongated and unusually structured ponytails – striking and reminiscent of alien-like beings. Face Lace & Body Shop makeup artists were creating an array of Salvador Dali inspired characters on four gorgeous models. The skin was fresh, with subtle contours and definite highlights. Lips were girlie with a softy peony lip shade doused in a good sprinkling of glitter. Eyes were contoured softly in a rosey bright pink and outlined with strange and yet beautiful lobsters. (YES lobsters!)
Face Lace founder Phyllis Cohen created the gorgeous bespoke adornments used on the show which brought the models’ makeup to life. Working alongside Body Shop key artist Lan Nguyen, the makeup look was dreamy and striking. Accompanying the lobster lined eyes, little ants crawled up the side of the models’ cheeks and arms while hands were adorned in bejewelled holographic eyes. Brows were kept soft but groomed.
Phyllis said “I was thrilled to discover I would be working with Lan. We have a symbiotic creative vision and seamlessly understand each other.”
For those of you who don’t know, Phyllis is one of the elite few successful creative makeup artists of her time. Her designs, a mix of intricate face pieces and colourful makeup, create a new way of playing with facial features and textures, changing the structures of makeup and making way for a world of possibilities. She’s spent her time of late building up well known brand Face Lace, which has become highly sought after for LFW shows time and time again. I caught up with Phyllis backstage the Liz Black Fashion Show Presentation and chatted to her about what inspired the Liz Black Face Lace designs and what we can expect from Face Lace this season.
It’s such an honour to meet you- we are huge fans of your work! It’s all going on backstage with hair and makeup! What inspired the look for Liz Black’s show? How did you both agree on a concept?
I was presented with the idea of there being a huge Dali influence. As soon as I found this out, coming from an art school beauty background I was very excited! I worked with the idea of beautiful skulls, ants, mustaches and lips. We used a lot of Dali motifs to draw inspiration. When we came up with the lobster around the eye – that was THE one! Key makeup artist Lan took the designs and co-created the look for the show. We also used the ants on the back of the models hands and added lips made with white pearls, beads and rhinestones which gave a performance element to the look.
What helps you to tap into that creative state of mind, especially when preparing for your new concepts?
Honestly, I usually just sit down with a white piece of paper and put the pencil down. Just do it! I have always sketched makeup ideas – I have my own pages with 6 faces on a sheet as I sometimes go through a lot of versions of the same idea to get things right, and it helps to have the tweaks side by side to compare. If I have a block I force myself to put down any mark. Once you have one mark on the page then you can start making decisions: is the mark too long or too short? Does it need to be angled? Would it better higher or lower? After sketching for the last few decades I have 1000s of makeup designs on paper in various folders, so sometimes i just look through old ideas for inspiration.
As one makeup artist to another do you have any favorite makeup products that you have used in your kit for years that you can’t live without?
I love the Shu Umuera white base control but used on top of makeup as a highlighter! I’m a HUGE fan of highlighting the skin! I also love the Dinair Airbrush in black but rather than using it in an airbrush machin , I apply it in drops on an eyeshadow lid and use it as a liner with a size 0 brush. It creates very thin fine lines like no other! I love pretty much all Armani foundations.
How long does it take to make an idea of a Face Lace piece turn into a physical product. What is the process like?
I have collected many great reference books on all types of design, from ancient Egyptian art to geometric fractals, and I look through them often. I’m pretty old-fashioned – I start my designing with paper and pencil. Once I have a design I like in pencil, I paint it in black then get it into the computer and do more tweaking. After the first test cutting of the design I probably do about 40 or 50 further small tweaks to get it just right. So from start to a perfect finished design usually takes me about 50 hours.
What was your favourite part of the collaboration with Liz Black?
I love to bounce ideas off kindred spirits – when I met with Liz we immediately hit it off. She has great strength of character in her creativity, which I loved. Usually when I’m discussing ideas with fashion people I have to play it safe, otherwise I can get too excited and let my ideas run rampant. But with Liz her ideas were so bold to start with that she encouraged me to be bold too. When we met up again after a week of my working on designs she was very enthusiastic and wanted to experiment with everything. We started chopping up what I brought and placing it everywhere and that was so much fun.
“As you may have already seen, a photo of two mannequins from Swedish department store Åhléns has been circling the Interwebs. While two plastic women typically aren’t the catalyst for a surge of body-image discussions, these mannequins struck a chord across the globe due to their size — approximately a size 10 and 12…. With the average non-specialty clothing store offering up to at least a size 14 (some, like Old Navy, carry up to a size 18 in store) and the growth of plus-size consumers, it makes fiscal sense to provide mannequins that reflect the size of their increasing customer base. By displaying larger mannequins, not only could women see how the clothes would potentially fit their shape, they would also feel more body confident thanks to the increase of plus-size representation within the fashion industry, and therefore, be apt to purchase more.”
My insufficiently caffeinated reactions: First of all, 10 and 12 are not “plus” sizes. Second, North American store mannequins don’t “reflect the size” of any of their customer base: They’re not shaped like real humans - they’re basically just humanoid coat hangers.
For SS14, Central Saint Martins graduate Liz Black presents her sixth ready-to-wear collection entitled “Perceive/Deceive”.
Minimal but abstract, Black patchworks her prints against primary block colours intertwining quite literally with 3D architectural structures bringing the female form to life. Textual details are combined in tailored forms with clean lines reflected through the use of many mediums.
Silhouettes were feminine yet experimental with emphasis on the female figure, extending the lines of hips and shoulders empowering the body and creating a ‘Fashion-forward’ women. Royal blue leather laid against delicate silks resulting in a cleverly produced, wearable collection.
A conceptual presentation showing Blacks signature creativity.