1 - The Shoulders

A good suit starts at the shoulders. It should fit your posture and flatter your frame. If your suit jacket doesn’t make you look better when you put it on, you’re wearing the wrong one.

2 - The Lapel

Avoid narrow and extra wide and keep it somewhere in the middle. Also consider whether you prefer a notched lapel-which is customary-or a more dramatic peaked version.

3 - The Buttons

Suit snobs pay close attention to the buttons on the sleeve of a suit jacket. Most suits, even those from top European designers, have sleeve buttons that don’t actually unbutton but are strictly for show. The best suits have working button holes on the sleeves. And while you’re not likely to ever see anyone rolling up the sleeve of the suit jacket unless his name is Michael Jackson, some flashier types like undoing these buttons in order to show off the superior hand tailoring of their garment.

4 - The Pattern

Stripes and checks are the most popular patterns for suits-though these are often so subtle they are not noticeable from even a short distance. A better suit carefully matches where the patterns meet and overlap, with stripes continuing across the seams perfectly.

5 - The Pockets

Most suits are delivered with the pockets sewn shut. Pull them open but don’t load them with your phone, keys, or iPod as this will ruin the silhouette.

6 - The Lining

Subtle or shocking, a good lining, like functional button holes on the sleeve, allows suit junkies another opportunity to demonstrate their sartorial flair

7 - The Stitching

Superior suits are hand-stitched by a tailor. Although fusing-a fancy word for the suit being glued together-is commonplace for off-the-rack suits, a truly handmade suit will be sewn by artisans. This will be reflected in the price.


A new lining process video (I accidentally flipped it, I’m not left handed 😁)

Made with Instagram

Mitered Corners for Coat Facings

 In order to line a coat and hide all your nasty frayed edges, you gotta do some facings first. A facing is just a strip of fabric that is sewn to a raw edge and turned under so the lining doesn’t show on the outside. But what happens when two facings meet? You get the deformed and nightmarish hell-spawn we call a mitered corner. Or maybe its just a diagonal seam that keeps the corners neat. Tedious, yes, but well worth it when you see the slick beauty of a properly sewn lining.

1) Cut strips, mine are 2" wide. Standard is 1.5" but wider ones are easier to sew. Make them exactly as long as the edge it faces.

2) Cut a 45 degree angle, leaving a small seam allowance at the corner. Put right sides together and sew along the angled seam. Turn right sides out. 

3) Line up facings with the edges and sew. Turn right sides out and press. Now you’re ready for the lining!