lewis collection

Listen, in
the early 1920′s, women were paid to paint radium
onto watch dials so that men wouldn’t have to ask

the time in dark alleys. They were told it was safe,
told to lick their brushes into sharp points. These
women painted their nails, their faces, and judged

whose skin shined brightest, they coated their
teeth so their boyfriends could see their bites
with the lights turned down.

Paige Lewis, from “The Moment I Saw a Pelican Devour,” published in Sixth Finch

8

The visual inspiration for the first Twin Shadow music video for ‘Slow’ came from the dark vaults of Calvin Klein’s past. A controversial ad campaign where models were asked uncomfortable questions against a wood paneled wall, inside what seemed like someone’s creepy carpeted basement. Regardless of your opinion about the campaign, you can’t help but feel something when you watch it. What makes it so provocative, unsettling and exciting is the simplicity of the idea, that there is more to the story when the cameras are off.

Simple and sexy seems to be the through line with CK in general and that carries on in this week’s Spring 2016 presentation for the inaugural year of NY Fashion Week Men’s. It seems to me that the clothes are more fitted in order to show off the form of a man. The colors blend with the nature of the season and play well with all skin tones. Much like last seasons nude color scheme, CK have found a deeper version of neutral palettes with a focus on black, linden, white and boxwood. There’s a metallic quality present in the fabrics that gives their minimalist designs a heavy signature that is unmistakably Calvin Klein.

In taking a close look at the collection, I’ve come to realize that these clothes are designed to accentuate the beauty of the male figure and the confident personality of the man inside the clothes.

GLJ

Come near again, Destroyer.
That I may look upon your face and it give me counsel
in shattering.
But it is I who approach and I believe I see him before me.
Behind the mask scented with carnival violets.
Isn’t it urgent to know him before he breaks my bones?
But he takes the question out of my mouth,
he disarms me, scattering me like almond flower petals…
—  Philippe Jaccottet (trans. Tess Lewis) from Seedtime: Collected Notebooks 

“Why, sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast.”