‘La Cote d'Azur ou Une fête sur la terrasse’ by
Louis Strimpl and ‘Vichy’ by George Barbier: 1915 fashion illustrations featuring various designers, including Lanvin, Beer, Paquin, Callot Soeurs, Worth, and Doucet.
Originally, Art Deco was expensive,
included materials and exquisite craftsmanship put into modernistic forms:
pieces of furniture included ivory and silver inlays, and pieces of Art Deco
jewellery combined diamonds with platinum, jade, and other precious materials.
The style was used to decorate the first-class salons of ocean liners, deluxe
trains, and skyscrapers. It was used around the world to decorate movie palaces
of the 1920s and the 1930s. Later, after the Great Depression, the style
changed and became less costly.
A good example of luxurious Art
Deco is Jeanne Lanvin’s boudoir, designed by Armand-Albert Rateau (1882-1938)
and made between 1922an 1925. It was located in her house at 16, Rue Barbet de
Jouy, in Paris, which was demolished in 1965. The room was reconstructed in the
Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris. The walls were covered with molded lambris
below sculpted bas-reliefs in stucco. The alcove was framed with columns of
marble on with bases and a plinth of sculpted wood. The floor was of white and
black marble, and, in the cabinets, decorative objects were against a
background of blue silk. Lanvin’s bathroom had a tub and the washstand made of
sienna marble, with a wall of carved stucco and bronze fittings.
By 1928, Art Deco had become
more comfortable, with deep leather club chairs. The study designed by the
Paris firm of Alavoine for an American businessman in 1928-30, now in the
Brooklyn Museum, had a unique feature. Since it was constructed during the prohibition
of alcohol, it included a secret bar behind the panels.
By the 1930s, the style had
been somewhat simplified, but it was still extravagant. In 1932 the decorator
Paul Ruoud made the Glass Salon for Suzanne Talbot. It featured a serpentine
armchair and two tubular armchairs by Eileen Gray, a floor of mat silvered
glass slabs, a panel of abstract patterns in silver and black lacquer, and an
assortment of animal skins.
The fashion world was shocked when veteran Lanvin designer, Alber Elbaz, got fired from the brand last year. At a time when many designers were leaving fashion houses, not many seemed optimistic at the state of play in the fashion industry.
Fast forward to 2016, at Bouchra Jarrar’s first showing for Lanvin. Sure, she is no Alber Elbaz, but her collection still hit all the right notes for me. The sheer pieces played up the sensuality of the female body; but the masculine jackets brought a nice contrast to the outfits. And amen to the flats!
Displays for Princess Grace gown at the James Michener exhibit. As we can see the gown was accompanied by an oversize portrait, by Howell Conant, of the Princely Couple , for display.
The Princess wore it on at least two occasions…the Opera de Monte Carlo during her wedding week, and also on a State Visit to France in
The ivory gown was a design by Antonio del Castillo of the House of Lanvin-Castillo…..it was made of silk organza, with thousands of beads and sequins intricately sewn by hand. Truly a work of art…..and when the light catches the hand beading well… it is magnifique !!
I actually was lucky enough to have the great designer Alber Elbaz who formerly designed at Lanvin for the past ten years and is originally Israeli also. He did all of my costumes for [A Tale of Love and Darkness]. We really wanted to tell a story through the wardrobe. I like this European elegance that they had but also poverty. They don’t have a lot and she’s wearing the same clothes over and over again. But they’re beautiful clothes that she had from Europe. She had three outfits. Also the clothes helped tell the passage of time. We go from a more 40’s silhouette to a more 50’s silhouette which helps us understand the time that has gone by.
In Retrospect: Oscar de la Renta’s Timeless Designs
The fashion industry mourns the loss of iconic designer Oscar de la Renta, who died on October 20 at 82 years old from complications due to cancer. From being an art student in Madrid, an apprentice for renowned Spanish couturier Cristobal Balenciaga to designing for Lanvin and Balmain, eventually launching his own fashion label and dressing up some of the world’s most famous and beautiful women, de la Renta’s legacy echoes through his timeless, feminine, and elegant designs.
Marjorie Jonas, assistant conservator at The Museum at FIT, explains her
conservation treatment of a 1928 silk dress by designer Jeanne Lanvin
so that it could go on display in the exhibition Faking It:
Originals, Copies, and Counterfeits, on view December 2, 2014 - April
I like first class, but I don’t like first class people- I prefer the people in coach. I like fine restaurants, but prefer the taste of McDonalds. I like to be perfect, but I don’t like perfection- I think it’s dangerous: there is nothing after perfection. I know, I am a walking contradiction.
Alber Elbaz, speaking at the Vogue Festival 2013.
fancy crocker tier jane or a time period fashion roxy/jane (like 20s or 40s. 60s housewife would be really good for jane tho)
So tru facts: I considered for a little while having a fancy Roxy that was 20s based. I’m kinda surprised nobody has tried to do a Dreamer Flapper Roxy? But truth be told, I’d want to do a robe de la style, which are THESE funky things.
Basically, there was a little loophole in the law that said for ladies to be presented in court, they had to wear panniers, which obviously didn’t fit with the straight flapper style. Enter the designer Lanvin, who did this.
They’re really pretty but kinda bizarre. Here’s Lady Rose, from Downton Abbey, being presented in one surely based on the design above.
The trick is, I don’t feel like my body would flatter this look AT ALL, so I will just. SATISFY MYSELF WITH LOOKING AT THEM AND MAKING HIGH PITCHED WHINES.
A 50s/60s-stuck dreamer or godtier Jane would be interesting too.