kim moriarity

A Word Vomit: On 'Chasing Mavericks', Jay Moriarty, Surfing, The Sea (and Nature and life in general)

I just finished watching ‘Chasing Mavericks’.

When I first heard of it,from the name I assumed it would be another one of those highly named but not-so-great films, possibly sci-fi, possibly with the crudest of ever graphics and the not-so-amazing actors (Keep in mind, Sharktopus). But I started watching it. I LOVE IT.


OHMYGOD.I am so glad I gave it a chance,so glad I just lingered for a minute or two, because it is amazing.

Because, I think they have really done justice to the people and the story that swirled around them.
Also,the surfers look really fit and the glowing tan and the ocean and everything AAHAHHHHHHAAHGBUIVHNGTJHYVTJLK

The acting is superb, but most of all, the story. The storyline is touching and its so real, so raw. also the soundtrack (Y)

And I haven’t even watched the whole movie yet.

What it must feel like to surf, being chased after waved..the thrill,the adventure, the rush, the high…I live near the sea, but surfing isn’t that big of a deal here. I doubt I’ve ever seen around 5 surfers here…Hardly the point though.

I want to surf. Just an average swimmer,or possibly below average. However,I really want to surf.

I love the story of Jay Moriarty, THE KID WAS ONLY 15 WHEN HE SURFED THAT WAVE. And he died at 22. I just love this movie. Its amazing. AMAZING. AMAZING  A M A Z I N G 

I Googled him a bit, and he seems like a genuinely nice guy. Warm, and compassionate, driven and open hearted :)

Also, the Live Like Jay stickers. I want. I’d rather much prefer a ‘Live Like Jay’ shirt though…Not only are they aesthetically pleasing but they remind me of the sun shining brightly, of golden sands and the deep, intimidatingly frighteningly terrible sea. The smell of salt, the sound of the roaring waves intermingling with the rush of wind. The sea is beautiful. Its beautiful and it frightens me. Just watching the waves on screen…shivers. What magnificent power, the crash and the roar. The way that a mass of water just rises up and curls and rushes forward to crash down and just flattens out…Its all foam and calm for a minute and you barely have a minute to appreciate whats just happened, your breath still caught in your throat; when another wave rises up. And more beyond that. Its beautiful, its magnificent, majestic leaves me speechless.( I feel pretty incoherent right now ) 

And to actually harness that power,to feel the might of the ocean, the waves behind you, beneath your feet..


How can you not but just simply marvel at the beauty of Nature and the perfect harmony in which all things of chaos exist. Its an intricate balance, a perfect one though. 

Its beautiful. We need to open our eyes, and our hearts to truly experience what this world offers.

People will forget what you say and do, but they will never forget how you made them feel. Jay touched so many people and he tried to leave everywhere he went just a little bit better. When people were around him, they felt the love and sincerity. Jay used to love to look for the gnarliest looking person he could find, make eye contact with them and smile. He came from a place of love in his heart and would use it to break down barriers with other people. ‘Live Like Jay’ doesn’t mean you have to be a tough, big-wave surfer. Jay knew that, even for him, that would eventually end. It means find out what you’re here for and follow it. Be true to yourself and treat others well.

-Kim Moriarty (Jay Moriarty’s widow)

“Live Like Jay” people.

Also watch the movie. And love Nature. And the people around you. Give and receive openly. And most of all, be thankful.

Peace out.