When Margiela started, it was a new proposition. It was ice cool. The four stitches were a smoke signal to the initiated. This is what Richard Gray, executive fashion director of “The Sunday Times Style,” told us. It’s a sentiment echoed throughout Yoox’s mini documentary, “The Artist Is Absent.” If you’ve not seen it, it’s a handy reminder of what made Margiela a covetable label in the first place. His use of deconstruction, mixed with an expert’s hand at cutting and tailoring, made Margiela one of the most popular designers during his heyday.