This is rabbit hole iteration number eleventy billion.
Most people could look at these shoes (handmade by Il Quadrifoglio) and understand that they are nice. Some may even be able to recognize that they are bespoke due to the cuban heel, beveled waist, and level of finishing (plus the fancy shoe trees)
But it takes a special kind of nerd to recognize that these are, in fact, “seamless” wholecut imitation brogues. Seamless is in quotation marks because there actually is a seam on the interior side of the shoe, it’s just very cleverly hidden.
Look closely at the top picture and you’ll see that the heel counter has faux brogueing - just perforations and stitching as opposed to overlapping leather. Now look at the counter on the bottom picture. You can see that the leather overlaps very slightly. The artisan was able to hide the one seam of the pattern along the curve of the brogueing using some clever cutting techniques.
These are the things most people don’t see in bespoke shoes and only a few would really appreciate.
Hi my name is Jeff and I spend too much time looking at shoes on the internet.
Bespoke Whole Cut Imitation Brogue for Styleforum member Nutcracker. Featuring one piece leather construction, seamless back, and beveled waist.
Imitation brogues are shoes with sewn on seams and brogueing holes directly on the base leather, instead of using another piece of leather to lay on top for the broguing effect.
Quite an amazing pair in terms of pattern cutting. The whole shoes is constructed using one piece of leather and the back seam is moved towards the inside heel counter contour to create the illusion of seamless back.
Look carefully at the heel counter of the picture below. The extra leather thickness is where the wholecut joint places.