i need a bigger glue gun

Cheap (kinda) Mascot Head (thing idk)

Time for another missing pictures build \o/ so uhhh… I had another prop I made, (specifically a lantern) that I have basically zero pictures of building, but! I took quite a few pictures of this:

my Tonberry head. Total approximate cost: $15 give or take $3-5 of materials I already had on hand. Disclaimer: the total cost is low because I have a tiny head.

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Tv Head Tutorial!!

Okay guys, today I’m gonna teach you how I made this.vvv

My main reason for teaching you this is I never found a tutorial that shows you the cheapest, easiest, and safest way to make one. so here we go…

First you will need: 

  • an old box tv
  • an acrylic sheet (keep in mind this HAS to be at least a half inch bigger than your screen space in the end)
  • some window tint (preferably the darkest you can find)
  • spray paint in your preferred color
  • finisher (if paint does not bond with plastic)
  • bonding glue/ air conditioner mounting tape ( i used tape because we were on a budget, and we already had it)
  • a powersaw/sander
  • screwdriver
  • hot glue/gun
  • pocket knife
  • rubber-handled wire cutters
  • a hard hat/blankets for support

How to do it:

  1. (This is very VERY VERY important!!!) make sure to wait at least 6 months after the last time in use to do this step and step 2, or you could get electrocuted!!! Use your screwdriver to unscrew the front of the TV from the back, pulling off the back of the TV; the TV should be laying on it’s front when you do this
  2. CAREFULLY snip any wires connecting to the TV from the huge mound of screen and circuit boards. You will also need to unscrew anything still connection to the TV, like the screws holding the screen in place.
  3. DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT BREAK THE GLASS SCREEN!!! It holds hazardous chemicals that could be fatal to you if inhaled. Carefully lift all of the guts out of the TV, and put them in a trash bag. (I would rather you all take these materials straight to the dump, and put it where all of the TV’s and stuff go, so that no one else may breathe in these chemicals while lifting your bag. We don’t want anyone getting hurt!!)
  4. Now that you’re done with the scary part, you can get to the fun part!! Measure the circumference of your head. Plug that into this formula: C = πd. Your goal is to find the diameter. When you find this, measure it onto the center of the bottom of your shell. You can do this however many times you’d like (As in the diameter crossing itself over and over again.) Then cut along the circumference of it, adding half an inch to the whole circumference. If this is really confusing for you, or you’re not good with math, just put the tv on top of your head, and mark half an inch away from it. Cut along the marks you’ve made. After doing this, power sand it down so it doesn’t cut you. (If you’d like, use your hot glue to trace along the hole so you won’t hurt yourself!!)
  5. Take your tv shell out to a well ventilated area, and spray it away with your paint! Make sure to do three coats, giving time to dry within coats. After it’s all dry, spray it down with finisher if needed.
  6. (You can do this while you’re waiting for layers to dry) Measure the space where the screen is going, and add on half an inch to each side. Use a marker to mark where you are going to cut on your acrylic sheet. After this is done, lightly trace over the lines you’ve marked with your pocket knife (this will not cut it).
  7. After you’ve traced your line with a knife, take some wire cutters and snip away at the lines you’ve made (wearing gloves if you don’t want Plexiglas in your fingers). The reason why you need to snip, and why you would not just cut it with your power saw, ect ect, is because it would cause cracking, and we don’t want that. If you would like, carefully sand the sheet down with sandpaper, but this wouldn’t be needed if you’re using tape to mount it into the TV.
  8. After your shell has completely dried, measure up the sheet to the shell to make sure it fits. If it doesn’t, do step 5 and 6 over again until you’ve reached desired size. Do not attach screen yet
  9. Apply your tint to the acrylic with extreme care. There will be bubbles, and you will need to squeegee them out. 
  10. Put your sheet into your tv, and mount it with your tape/glue
  11. Find a hard hat/some old blankets and attach them to the inside for head support, and so it won’t tear up your shoulders (like it did mine :c)

And you are now done! Enjoy your TV head and have fun!!

How to make a cosplay Keyblade the cheap, lazy, and inefficient way (but hey it looks pretty cool from a moderate distance)

I’ve had a lot of questions as to how I make my Keyblades. To be honest, I don’t really endorse following my methods if you want to be a ~serious~ cosplayer, because they are cheap, lazy, inefficient, and look pretty crummy up-close. A lot of my “techniques” are based around questions like:

  1. Are the materials simple enough that I can procure them without needing to ask an employee for help? Better yet, can I get some materials at someplace like Target? Because I also need milk and band-aids so I’ll be there anyway…
  2. Can I carry it all up to my third-floor apartment by myself with minimal effort?
  3. Can I assemble it in said apartment very quietly because I hate to be a bother to my neighbors?

But I said several times that I’d make a tutorial anyway, so here it is: How to make a cosplay Keyblade the cheap, lazy, and inefficient way (but hey it looks pretty cool from a moderate distance). Please note that this method is pretty much just for designs with plain shafts, where you only have to worry about making the guard and the “teeth” end.

The super short version:

  • Get a stick
  • Glue foam board to it
  • Cover that foam board with craft foam
  • Cover everything with paint

Unnecessarily long version, including random dos and don’ts based on mistakes I’ve made (Sorry if the long-winded over-explanations insult your intelligence, but I’m actually really bad at arts and crafts and didn’t realize a lot of obvious things until I did them wrong):

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How to make “leather” bracers out of foam rubber

Step 1: Draw your template. I, for one, hate measuring and pinpoint working, but I recommend you to measure as properly as possible. If you don’t want to make up an own design as I have done, there are plenty of inspiration sources on the internet.

Step 2: Done? Good. Now draw your template onto your foam rubber and cut it out, then cut the frame out of your template (mine is about 2cm wide), draw it onto your foam rubber, cut out again and stick it with a hot glue gun properly on your rubber foam bracer.
NOTE that the thicker your material is (foam rubber is luckily not very thick) the bigger your template has to be to fit around your arm!

Step 3: Ornaments, decoration: Same technique.
I have used Worbla instead of foam rubber, because it’s thinner. To be honest there is hardly a difference because my foam rubber isn’t that much thicker than Worbla. It’s just more difficult (for me) to cut fine ornaments out of Worbla. xD
If you want to use Worbla, make sure to heat it up properly with a hot air gun before sticking it onto your foam bracer. (No hot glue gun needed)
During that process I have also brought the bracers into shape so they would go around my arm.

Step 4: Cover everything with glue. I have used wood glue. Scrape glue away around the ornaments to give them more detail.

Step 5: Eat a donut.

Step 6: Once everything is dry, paint it! Use a couple of layers of acrylic color; brown, black, I have also added red and gold, to give my bracers that leather look.

Step 7: I have used leather straps to adjust my bracers. Measure the sides and make little holes with scissors, then thread your bracers. Tadaa, nice lacing!

Actually you are done now!
Now you can optionally eat another donut, add a (THIN) coat of glue to give your bracers more shine, reblog or like this post.


So, this tutorial actually took me so long to make, but here it is! This time we’re making a headpiece with two lovely ram/goat (idk man, whatever you prefer) horns!

What you need is:

  • A random headband (a thicker one is recommended)
  •  Wire (I used copper wire)
  • Sticky tape (thin)
  • Paste glue
  • Newspapers/any other paper you like
  • leather (any kind you like)
  • Brush
  • Ribbon
  • Hot glue gun

To start, cut two even pieces of wire. The longer the pieces - the bigger the horns, but don’t forget to add several extra inches for attaching them to the headband. After attaching the pieces, bend them into the shape you want your horns to be.

Next step - take some newspaper and crumple the paper around the wire. Make the horns as thick as you want  by adding more pieces of paper. After you’re done and the shape looks fine for you, slightly wrap the horns with thin sticky tape where needed, so that the paper holds together.(P.S. don’t etirely cover your horns in the tape, that would make it harder to glue the leather on it.)

After the shape is ready, mix some paste glue with several drops of water. Then take a brush and cover your horns with the watery glue, all over. Leave it for the night to dry. This will harden the top layer of the paper.

And now the fun part that took me some decent time. I had my leather in pieces of different shapes and sizes. If you have like one biiig strip of leather, I’d recommend cutting it into different pieces for it will be easier to glue and shape it. Use paste glue, cower the entire back of the piece!

First off, I glued a piece under each of the horns, wrapping the leather around the headband, (as you see in the picture no.5) so that the horns stay in the place. Then start glueing the leather on the horns, piece by piece. You decide on the texture - whether you want them wrinkly (like I did), smooth or layered. It all depends on the way you put the leather on. Leather is pretty easy to shape when applied with paste glue, so yeah, get creative!

Leave the horns for the night, so that the glue dries out. The glue should make the leather hard so your horns should be firm. 

Take any kind of ribbon to match your horns, wrap and glue it around the headband using hot glue. This is done to hide the randomness of the headband and unnecessary pieces of paper/leather hanging out of the bases of horns.

And we’re done :)

Model/happy customer: Gabija

Picture taken by me

Edit: Monika

Vaporeon Tail Tutorial

Alrighty folks, Washu Takahashi here with my first cosplay tutorial! I’m afraid it’ll be a bit lame since it’s for a project I did 2 years ago and didn’t take as much pictures of the progress as I’d like for this. BUT someone asked for it, so I’m going to do my best!  The method I used was done by me with my main goal being that the tail would weigh very little, and I did manage that much!


  • A hot glue gun
  • Scissors
  • A stuff of some sort - newspaper, stuffed animal filling, cotton balls…I personally used toilet paper since that’s what I had laying around
  • A few sheets of craft foam. Ordinary craft foam you can find in any hobby store, or even Walmart I believe. I’d recommend getting it in blue for Vaporeon’s tail, or whatever color you need for the tail you’re making! However, that’s not required if you have a thick enough fabric that won’t allow the foam to show through.
  • Fabric. Since Vapoeron is a water type, I wanted her tail to be a little shiny, as if it was wet with water, so I picked a nice, shiny material.  Her tail and the spikes are two separate colors, so I have two different colors of the same type of fabric. I wouldn’t recommend using two different fabric types, since they wouldn’t look nice together.
  • Time and Patience (and be prepared to burn the tips of your fingers on that damn glue gun!)

So, step 1. COLLECT ALL OF THOSE MATERIALS! The materials are pretty darn cheap to come by. Craft foam is like a buck for a giant sheet, and I don’t think you’d need more than 3-4 sheets. Hot glue guns might be a tad pricey if you don’t already have one, but honestly the small little ones do just as good of a job as the bigger, expensive ones. They’re more precise anyways, in my opinion.  The fabric all depends on you. It could be a cheap fabric, or something ncer that might cost you a bit more (I’m personally in favor of shelling out a little extra for a nice look) DON’T FORGET: Chain hobby/fabric stores ALWAYS have coupons. For Hobby Lobby or Joanne Fabrics, you can easy whip out a coupon on a smartphone. Who doesn’t like 20% off that shiny fabric?

Moving right along, step two is to create the base shape of the tail. I wanted a tail that would wrap around my body so it looked more realistic.  You might choose to have the tail hanging straight behind you, or in some other direction.  Whatever you choose is fine, just make sure you’ve got a good mental image of where you want to go with your design!

This tail was created simply by creating circles of craft foam and hot gluing them together. Sorry I don;t have more images of this process! I just rolled the foam into cones, and cut off the excess if there was any.  I tried to keep the area where the pieces met on the underside of the tail so it looked cleaner.  There’s no specific method to follow here.  Trial and error if your friend, and you might mess up a few times before getting the shape you want.

This step is also where you need the filling.  I cut out four shapes for the end of the tail and then hot glued two to each other.  Before putting them together, I stuffed them with toilet paper to give them that full, 3D look.  It’s not completely necessary, but certainly looks better than flat pieces.

Next came the attaching of the fabric.  I’m not overly happy with my method, but I was pressed for time and don’t think the outcome was too terrible.

I wrapped the lighter fabric around foam core I’d created, making sure that the pieces that overlapped were on the bottom so I could hot-glue them together there.  The fabric is only attached by hot glue on the underside, leaving the top pretty clean looking.

For the scales, I crafted each individually out of craft foam. I simply cut out two triangles and glue 2 of their sides together to create the shape.  If the scales don’t seem 3D enough on their own, you can add stuffing to them. After crafting the scales, I hot glued fabric to them, making sure the fabric wrapped 100% around the scale and gluing it inside for a nice look. (this is the part that led to the most finger burning from the glue gun for me @.@) After that, I applied a thin layer of hot glue on the remaining open side of the scale and glued that onto the base of the tail.

And that’s the basics of how to make the tail! To attach the tail, I made a slit on either side of the opening the you can see, and slid a belt made of the same fabric through the slits to tie around my waist. I created the belt using heat-n-bond, which I’m a HUGE fan of. You just iron it to one side of your fabric, remove the protective lining, and then iron it to the other side of the fabric and it works like a glue. Love that stuff, can’t recommend it enough.

Some things to take into consideration with your tail (aka, bad stuff that happened to me and how to avoid it)

At one point, I needed to use the restroom.  I took off my tail, left it with a friend, and went about my business. I came back to find her CRUSHING my tail in her hand (unintentionally…she was just trying to hold it…BUT OMG WOMAN I WAS SO MAD AT HER) Anyways, she held it so tightly she warped the foam and it looked like crap. I actually don’t have it anymore, I threw it out. So please keep in mind that while the tail is nice and flexible since it’s foam, it can also easily be crushed and/or bent if you’re not careful. If I was going to make this tail again (and I intend to) I’d create a strengthening point every so often, or even throughout the whole thing, if possible. My new idea is to take wooden popsicle sticks (you can find them in any craft/hobby store) and both put them along the sides of the tail on the inside to strengthen it AND to create crosses out of the sticks and glue them both horizontally and vertically throughout the tail.  Those two things alone are going to make the tail WAY sturdier, and much less likely to bend or warp, while still keeping the tail relatively light and flexible.

Well, I hope you liked this tutorial and hopefully it sparked some ideas for your next cosplay! If you have any ideas to improve the construction of this tail, please let know and I’d be happy to add them in. If you have any other ideas for tutorials you’d like to see, I’m all ears!

Suggestions/Ideas from others:

Libbykun - If you’ve seen those light saber toys, you could probably do the foam rings in a similar manner to those and keep it straight (without the bend) and attach it to your back end. It would hang pretty naturally and have a bit of swing you it like a real tail. (Washu - Has potential, but it’d be REALLY tricky to make sure each piece perfectly slides into the next without slipping out. So keep that in mind if you wanna try it this way!)

lrs-archived  asked:

How did you make the spears for your Lancer Cosplay?

Oh, I wanted to make a post about this but I competely forgot it D: So I’ll do it here~

Well, it isn’t so hard, all you need is PVC tube. Not so hard but not so soft. That’s how a made the bigger part of the spears. Since I wanted to make them in a way I can carry them easily, my dad helped me to cut them in half (so I can put them together when I use them) and I made the points out of cardboard and papier mache.

But as you can see, the end of the tubes are circle, so you need to use heat blower to make it flat, so the points could fit in. (But be careful, the heat blower is kinda dangerous stuff, do not point to yourself).

After this, I used hot glue gun to fix the point and the flatted end of the tube. (I also painted the points. It’s not necesarry, but with this, I think the red and yellow paint will remain there better)

And to make those strange vein stuffs on the spears, I used hot glue gun and I just draw the curves as I thought. After the spairs dried, I could start the painting part~ But warning: painting Gae Dearg is like murdering a man… everything will be red…

You might need to paint them over and over again… the red turned out well but Gae Buidhe was pain in the ass, the paint just didn’t want to stay in place :’D

And when they dried, I could paint the lines and the writing on them (well, officially they are graven but I couldn’t do that)

Aaand that’s it~

To be honest, I messed up Gae Buidhe since it ended up being too short, but I’m still happy I could make them :D