hose-clamp

Mojave Blunderbuss

This started out life as a Rossi break action 12 gauge shotgun that I bought from a pawn shop for around $25-30, can’t remember what it was exactly because I bought a few others at the same time and it was listed as broken. The stock was cracked, the barrel had a dent in the end and the gun itself was a little rusty so I decided to work on it and create a weapon that looked like it belonged in fallout. 

First step was breaking it down in to it’s parts. Some of them I had to toss because they were rusted and broken. Firing pin being one of them and the spring around it also since this is a rebounding hammer. Internals looked mostly ok except for a spring so I cleaned it all up and got to work. 

I replaced the firing pin with a nail I dremeled down to shape then heat treated and tempered to get it to be strong. I put a click pen spring around it as a return spring to keep it off the primer and bolted it in place. Then I took the spring for a air soft weapon and cut it down to size then put it inside for the internal latch spring and it works great. 

The butt plate had a crack in it too so I took it off and made a new one from an aluminium cake pan. This is before I recessed the screws. Don’t worry, I took the screws out, dremeled the aluminium and now they sit flush with the rear of the shotgun. 

On one side I carved Padyenie in… which is bad Russian grammar. I meant to say down fall but it literally means the act of falling. Oops. Oh well. The tape did not last long on the grip. 

The leather pouch was one I had sitting around. For the key on it I used a 7.62x54r keychain on a leather shoe lace and it holds seven rounds of 12 gauge. Ive had to rewire it twice because the wire or the pouch snapped previously but it still sits on there and works great. 

On the crack I used wood glue, drove nails through the stock and also used big heavy industrial staples to bind it. Now it’s not spreading anymore. I also cut out a bit of leather to use as a buffer in that area so it’s shielded from shock. 

The other modifications I made was a sling from an old karate belt (why don’t you use a seat belt? I hear that a lot. Because I did not have a god damned seatbelt at the time. I had a karate belt so I used what I had) and I put it on with a couple D rings, some ring mounts and screws. Because I wanted a sling on I had to use hose clamps around the front guard to keep it on because it’s only a tension one and not a screw one so it pops off if you don’t have the bands there. I also removed a good portion of the finish, hacked off the barrel to 18.5″ I made the shell holder there from an old purse and I’ve been hunting with it for about five years now. 

Here’s an old video of it being shot before I hacked down the barrel

https://youtu.be/spnthJnvXi4


It’s had a few names over the years but Mojave Blunderbuss stuck and it’s what the editor of TFB called it so I ran with that. 

Bringing this back for those that have not seen it. 

I took a broken Rossi single shot 12 gauge I got for $30 bucks and repaired it. Stock was broken, firing pin was broken and the barrel had a bit of a dent in it. I fixed it with nails and bailing wire. Added the hose clamps to keep the front guard on and also added a sling made from an old karate belt. Last touches were a side shell pouch that holds 7 shells held on with bailing wire and an aluminium cake pan butt plate. Pure Wasteland. 

And before you start in that I should have used a seatbelt or something else for the sling you don’t get the point of this. I used only what I had on hand at the time to fix it. 

This is my Post Apocalyptic Blunderbuss. 

7

Just another Goat trying to make its way in the world.  It seems like every week, Wesley over at MOMBAT documents another sterling example of early MTB history.  So so dope.  Look at that welded and hose clamped downtube plate!

More here: http://mombat.org/MOMBAT/Bikes/1986_Mountain_Goat_Trials.html

7

How to make a segmented bowl. 

1) Glue up long strips of scrap wood.

2) Cut them into short equal segments with 15-degree miters (a table saw jig makes this easier and safer).

3) Glue them into rings (hose clamps work well).

4) Glue the rings into stacks. At the base of the ring stack, glue a solid piece for the bottom of the bowl and a sacrificial piece of wood that you can screw to your lathe.

5) Mount to lathe and turn it smooth.

6) Sand and finish. Voila - you have a bowl.