horned dorset primavera


Forecast: Idyllic, with a 90% chance of blissful contentment. Horned Dorset Primavera, Rincon, Puerto Rico.

On Puerto Rico’s unspoiled west coast, in a sleepy town where surfer dudes wait for the perfect 20-foot wave, hides a smallish Relais & Châteaux property called Horned Dorset Primavera. White-washed two-storied villas in stucco - complete with Moroccan furnishings - look like they were transported from Southern Spain and dropped among the palms on the hillside facing the ocean. If I wanted to be critical, I’d say that the property is now aging, but the gray hairs suit its character just fine. 

I really should have booked elsewhere if I wanted activities, because there are none here. Unless you count lounging on my villa’s terrace next to the plunge pool as activity, or napping under the umbrella after reading three and a half pages of my book. The secluded beach is tiny, so walking on it cannot really count. Most guests - including me - have breakfasts and lunches served on their terrace. Watching glorious sunsets is way too restful. As is falling asleep to the sound of the waves at night. I finally concede that twirling with pleasure by the terracotta fountains is a legitimate activity.