honkthehorncallthepolice

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There was a ring of fire around Panics. Some were calling it a fire ring. #firing #teamblackhseep #bodysurf #bodysurfing #torpedopeople #theradmiracle #vipersurfingfins #honkthehorncallthepolice #turbolicious (at PANICS at the DISCO)

Point Panic. It’s always been a dream of mine to score DECENT sized Panics and I finally got the chance. Waves were in the 10 - 12 + range (this video was from the day before, maybe 5-7 foot). There’s no doubt this wave is unbelievable. I mean truly unbelievable for bodysurfing. Not much swimming. Long rides. Beautiful water. Warm weather. The who shabang.

I must admit however, it was incredibly frustrating at times. The wave is so perfect that you think you can do anything – so you try everything, and if you’re me, you’re fucking shit up all over the place. Rolls – why not? DEEP in and out barrels – let’s try. Belly spins – seems like a good time for a few. I rarely made it to the end of waves because I was doing a bunch of this silly shit – and of course loving every minute. When normally in bodysurfing you’re concernced with going as far as you can, here you were thinking “When I get to this section, what move can I get away with?” It breeds a whole different type of bodysurfer and mindset. It’s eye opening. I’ve always looked at bodysurfing as mostly reactive, but I think this wave you could be totally proactive. Does that make sense?

In conclusion: Point Panic is an easy wave to ride, and an incredibly difficult wave to master.

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Lunch break. Don’t be fake.

The reef creeps me out. Just being honest. But life is about pushing your boundaries sometimes. So what better way to push your boundaries than creep around on the reef. Found this little hole to start off. As you can see, it’s super small and I barely fit through it. Good enough for me. #honkthehorncallthepolice #teamblacksheep #luckywelivehawaii #torpedopeople #sunsetbeach @hurley (at Sunset Beach North Shore Hawaii)

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