Any dog under 50lbs is a cat — and cats are useless. @jameslewiz Taking advantage of #thewedgestreet getting her skirt blown up. #photophoto #bearhug #beastonbeast #honkthehorncallthepolice #TeamBlacksheep #torpedopeople #hobra Jesse Brossa

I’ve said it before, you always want to ride in a nice smooth fashion and really dial in the look. You think about it. You focus on what to do. You’ve been there before. The second you kick into that wave, big or small, all hell breaks lose and you just do what comes natural. Practice makes perfect I guess. Get out there and practice. We talkin’ ‘bout practice.

Made with Instagram

@sluttyviking dropping into a wedge bomb this past weekend.

#thewedgecrew #wedgecrew #dirtyoldwedge #teamblacksheep #bodysurf #bodysurfing #waterninja #honkthehorncallthepolice #doitforthechicks #closeoutsforthechicks #shredder #thewedge #wedge #wedge #wedge #wedge #wedge #didimentionwedge

Made with Instagram

“I am not a crook!”

In my head it was perfect: Shoot into a giant closeout barrel while wearing a Nixon mask, and filming it first person with a hand plane and a gopro. Simple. So I put the mask on and slip out of the house without anybody noticing, onto the beach, and toward Off the Wall. The waves are double overhead…no biggie.

My first hurdle to overcome: people are staring at me like I’m an idiot who is going to get rescued. Probably because I am an idiot (but I’m not going to get rescued!). So I get over that embarrassment. 

I’m at the water’s edge. Where the hell do I put all this stuff / gear? Ok, strap the hand plane on. Attach the gopro to the hand plane. And the mask? Fuck it. Stuff it in my turbo. Tie it tight. Hurdle 1b to overcome: people are staring at me stuffing a Nixon mask into my pink turbo.

Ok. Hand plane is on, gopro is secure, and bulge is solid from mask stuffing – time to swim out. There’s no clear channel and it’s reef all the way, so I’ll just take my time, take a bunch of waves on the head, and then I’ll be fine. Nothing new here. 5 minutes later I’m almost to the critical point of where the waves are, getting ready to make my hard push past everything. Take one look back at the house, and everyone is on the deck staring at me. Fuck. So much for incognito – better not screw this up. Well, at least I am out here alone.

Wait…there are two surfers paddling out now. Fuck. Just act cool and say hi to them. “Hi guys." 

Good job.

Ok how is this going to work? I’m just going wait for the perfect wave. Throw the mask on over my head, go blind, and hope everything works out. 

10 minutes go by…me looking for the perfect wave…swimming around trying to get into a good spot so I can take off on a wave blindly.

A SET!!! Welp, it’s now or never. Pull the mask over my ears, swim out to the wave, and do the same thing you’ve done a million times…except with a mask…and a hand plane. Don’t forget to hit record on the gopro.

AND I’M OFF! Fuck Peter Pan – I’m flying. Face of the wave is a little bit bumpy holding a hand plane but who cares. Everything is perfect. Get ready for the giant close out barrel. WHOOOOOOOSH!

Long story short, because I couldn’t see, I was cutting up the wave way too high. I carved up so high, the hand plane dug into the water and flew off my hand then everything proceeded to go over the falls – go pro – hand plane – my limbs. I was instantly separated from my possessions (except the Turbo). Kiss the love, showing it some love and pop up pretty quick. SHIIIIIIT! I just lost $400 worth of stuff. No joke, a split second later, the hand plane along with the gopro popped up right in front of my face. WOO! A scream of relief. 

After searching for the Nixon mask, I found it on the inside 20 minutes later. Do I have video of all of this? Yup. I’ll post it later when I give it an edit.


Made with Instagram

There was a ring of fire around Panics. Some were calling it a fire ring. #firing #teamblackhseep #bodysurf #bodysurfing #torpedopeople #theradmiracle #vipersurfingfins #honkthehorncallthepolice #turbolicious (at PANICS at the DISCO)

Point Panic. It’s always been a dream of mine to score DECENT sized Panics and I finally got the chance. Waves were in the 10 - 12 + range (this video was from the day before, maybe 5-7 foot). There’s no doubt this wave is unbelievable. I mean truly unbelievable for bodysurfing. Not much swimming. Long rides. Beautiful water. Warm weather. The who shabang.

I must admit however, it was incredibly frustrating at times. The wave is so perfect that you think you can do anything – so you try everything, and if you’re me, you’re fucking shit up all over the place. Rolls – why not? DEEP in and out barrels – let’s try. Belly spins – seems like a good time for a few. I rarely made it to the end of waves because I was doing a bunch of this silly shit – and of course loving every minute. When normally in bodysurfing you’re concernced with going as far as you can, here you were thinking “When I get to this section, what move can I get away with?” It breeds a whole different type of bodysurfer and mindset. It’s eye opening. I’ve always looked at bodysurfing as mostly reactive, but I think this wave you could be totally proactive. Does that make sense?

In conclusion: Point Panic is an easy wave to ride, and an incredibly difficult wave to master.

Made with Instagram

Lunch break. Don’t be fake.

The reef creeps me out. Just being honest. But life is about pushing your boundaries sometimes. So what better way to push your boundaries than creep around on the reef. Found this little hole to start off. As you can see, it’s super small and I barely fit through it. Good enough for me. #honkthehorncallthepolice #teamblacksheep #luckywelivehawaii #torpedopeople #sunsetbeach @hurley (at Sunset Beach North Shore Hawaii)

Made with Instagram

Farewell for now. The surfing by body. #torpedopeople #teamblacksheep #honkthehorncallthepolice #thewedgestreet (at THE WEDGE)

I remember this wave – a real screamer. Not a drop of water out of place. The drop on this thing was straight down – bottom turn– then lock in and don’t move on this perfect little nugget of a wave. There is nothing better than looking down the line and knowing you’re going to make it. Look into the future and know, you’re going to make it. It’s going to be ok.
Made with Instagram

The exact moment when you realize you burned your buddy. #damnit #sorry @ckalima got so many righteous rides I don’t think he’s fretting. ________________________________________ #honkthehorncallthepolice #radmiracle #torpedopeople #bodysurfing #thewedgestreet #TeamBlacksheep #boyspushingotherboysfordobettatings

Made with Instagram

Running like a raped ape.

Sometimes you’re staying high: Woo. I’m having a good time.

Sometimes you got to get low: Get loaded – brace for impact. 

But whatever you do, keep it sexy. It’s hard to tell, but in the foreground, that’s a whole lot of backwash coming right at me! What’s the game plan now? Probably just do a flip when you hit that shit…or a twisty mcnasty. Pretty much no matter what you do, it’s going to send you off the wave. Embrace it, it’s all you’ve got.

Made with Instagram

A perfect representation of a Wedge chargers attitude. Weeeeeee! #honkthehorncallthepolice @mildbill (at The Wedge)

This is from the 2009 swell of horror. Mild Bill and I have had many an adventure bodysurfing and this sums up our attitude. Wouldn’t it be rad if, at the first ever Handplane Hoedown, you got drunk partying at Bryan and Scotti’s house, then decided at 2am you were going to walk to the beach and sleep on the beach in anticipation of the event? Only to freeze your ass off, slip into your wetsuit in the middle of the night, be woken up by the police who are patrolling the beach at 4am, then run around the handplane hoedown still buzzed from the night before screaming “Going STRAIGHT!” and scaring all the onlookers and children at the event…? Yup, we can check that box off – done it.

Made with Instagram

Kissing hands and shaking babies — be a wave politician. Trip a unicorn. Hug a rainbow. Punch a leprechaun. Be the #radmiracle #honkthehorncallthepolice #teamblacksheep #lovematuse #winteriscoming #boomboomroom

What’s weird about this wave is how high you can ride. If you want, you can stay as high as I am in this photo throughout most of the wave. Not everyone stays high and you certainly don’t have to, but you can. This wave makes bodysurfing a little more interesting because of the way different people pick different lines. Just like a skier would choose their own path down a hill, the Bodysurfer can choose their own path towards the end. My favorite thing to do is go high and fast, then when the wave backs off do a couple of tricks to slow it down…then go right back to riding high and fast. If you’re lucky, the wave will race the whole time and all you will be able to do is ride high and fast.

Made with Instagram