There was a ring of fire around Panics. Some were calling it a fire ring. #firing #teamblackhseep #bodysurf #bodysurfing #torpedopeople #theradmiracle #vipersurfingfins #honkthehorncallthepolice #turbolicious (at PANICS at the DISCO)
Point Panic. It’s always been a dream of mine to score DECENT sized Panics and I finally got the chance. Waves were in the 10 - 12 + range (this video was from the day before, maybe 5-7 foot). There’s no doubt this wave is unbelievable. I mean truly unbelievable for bodysurfing. Not much swimming. Long rides. Beautiful water. Warm weather. The who shabang.
I must admit however, it was incredibly frustrating at times. The wave is so perfect that you think you can do anything – so you try everything, and if you’re me, you’re fucking shit up all over the place. Rolls – why not? DEEP in and out barrels – let’s try. Belly spins – seems like a good time for a few. I rarely made it to the end of waves because I was doing a bunch of this silly shit – and of course loving every minute. When normally in bodysurfing you’re concernced with going as far as you can, here you were thinking “When I get to this section, what move can I get away with?” It breeds a whole different type of bodysurfer and mindset. It’s eye opening. I’ve always looked at bodysurfing as mostly reactive, but I think this wave you could be totally proactive. Does that make sense?
In conclusion: Point Panic is an easy wave to ride, and an incredibly difficult wave to master.