Me: *is distracted by other assignments, tv, and tumblr*
My homework: Truly, you have a dizzying intellect.
Me: Wait till I get going! …Now, where was I?
My homework: Reading.
Me: Yes, reading. And you know I also have four papers due soon, so I should clearly not be reading the textbook currently in front of me.
My homework: You’re just stalling now
Me: YOU’D LIKE TO THINK THAT, WOULDN’T YOU?!
Me: *continues to think about other assignments*
Me: *looks up at tv*
Me: *stays on tumblr*
I gave these tips to a freshman and she said they were helpful! So I put them into a post! These are just my personal tips, they aren’t going to work for everyone!
1. Wash your face.
Weird, I know, but trust me. I’ve made a smaller post about this but basically I use this before I go into hardcore-study mode or if I’m feeling sluggish and gross while doing work
2. Organize the apps on your phone by productivity.
Don’t put social media/game apps on the front page. Outta sight, outta mind, right? I have productivity/education apps on the front page, (things like Spanish dictionary, Duolingo, Waterlogged, Forest, etc.) Then I have sort of brainy games on the next page. Then on the very last page I put twitter, Instagram, etc. It keeps me from clicking them as soon as I turn on my phone and forget what I was doing.
3. Don’t dress in sweatpants and baggy tshirts if you have to really focus or are tired.
Comfy=sleepy. Wearing clothes makes me more productive. Even just wearing crew socks help. Experiment. Wear tennis shoes, workout gear, if you have a school uniform, continue to wear it when you come home. Don’t take it off until you finish your work!
4. Sick of studying at your desk? Sit on the floor.
This one isn’t as set in stone as the others, idk if this works for everyone. For me, changing up where I am studying/working every few hours helps my brain keep active & interested.
5. Have some sort of noise going in the background.
idk about you but studying in silence is super intimidating to me. I highly recommend the app Coffitivity, it is great atmospheric noise of a coffee shop. If you want music, play some instrumentals or find a playlist on here, there are so many good ones. If you just want noise, open your window or play some white noise apps. Nature noises/rain noises are also great.
I hope these helped to some extent! I’m no expert when it comes to productivity (I’m stalling some homework while I write this as we speak), but these tips just make things that much easier for me. Good luck, and Happy Studies!
So I decided to take a swing at some line less art again and I got inspired by Mindful Education. This looks so much better then my last one holy cow and look! Somewhat anatomically correct hands! Will I ever stop drawing Reapertale? Who knows.
░ ❀ here’s a huge, alphabetized list of sentences from assorted television shows that you can use for ask memes!
❛ A girl can do anything she puts her mouth to. ❜ ❛ A solution would’ve been birth control. Too late. Move on. ❜ ❛ Actually, I prefer to be called ruler of all that is evil, but I will answer to Satan. ❜ ❛ Age doesn’t matter. You can die at any time. ❜ ❛ And you’re… Well, I’m sure you have a wonderful personality, dear. ❜ ❛ Anything beautiful is worth getting hurt for. ❜ ❛ Anywhere you go, I’m going. ❜ ❛ Are you saying you don’t wanna get with this? ❜ ❛ At least she had a husband to kill. ❜ ❛ Back off, I’m starting! ❜ ❛ Because what’s the point in them being happy now if they’re going to be sad later. ❜ ❛ Boy, you are really not a morning person. ❜ ❛ But if I keep my body moving and my mind occupied at all times, I will avoid falling into a bottomless pit of despair. ❜ ❛ College is breaking my spirit. ❜ ❛ Come back to me. Forgive me. I love you. ❜ ❛ Do I look helpless? ❜ ❛ Do you hear yourself sometimes? Like when you speak? ❜ ❛ Do you think it’s easy for me to see you with somebody else? ❜ ❛ Do you want ants? Cause that’s how you get ants. ❜ ❛ Do you want me to have you committed or would you rather check yourself in? ❜ ❛ Don’t be baby. I only sprain. Next one I break. ❜ ❛ Don’t blame me for your sexual tension. ❜ ❛ Don’t go out of town. Don’t go anywhere. ❜ ❛ Don’t let what he wants eclipse what you need. He is very dreamy. But he is not the sun. You are. ❜ ❛ Don’t take this personally, but get out. ❜ ❛ Don’t you want someone real? Someone you can scratch and sniff? ❜ ❛ Driver picks the music, shotgun shuts his cake hole. ❜ ❛ Dude, you fugly. ❜ ❛ Every man has his weakness. ❜ ❛ Everybody’s got it all wrong cause you and I both know damn well that you’re still in love with me. ❜ ❛ Everyone I know is either getting married or getting pregnant or getting promoted and I’m getting coffee! And it’s not even for me! ❜ ❛ Excuse me, when exactly did you lose your soul? ❜
Hello! Could you please tell me how you train a falcon/hawk and how you hunt with them because I need the information for a story I am gonna write. Btw I love your blog and your love for animals
Thank you :) Yeah I’d be happy to give you the general idea of how its done.
The first step is earning the bird’s trust. This step is calling “manning.” There are several different manning methods, but the most common is simply spending as much time as possible with the bird either perched next to you or on the glove (preferably on the glove). I will usually have a tv marathon with a new bird and sit with it on the glove all day. Some people stay up all night with their birds as well. This is called “waking.” A sleepy bird will be less fearful than an an active, hyper bird, and it can speed up the process. I usually keep my bird up through some of the night, but I’ve never kept one up all night. Keeping the bird in the house during the first few weeks is the most effective method, in my opinion. This way, the bird is constantly around people and gets exposed to all parts of daily life. The more exposure, the better, but you don’t want to overload a new bird all at once. A gradual approach is best. Starting in a cool, dark, quiet place is ideal because it will help the bird relax. Some falconers will keep their birds hooded during the first few days or even weeks to reduce stimulation. Birds are highly visual, so taking away that extra sensory stimulation by covering their eyes can greatly reduce stress.
Once the bird is accepting food on the glove, the next step is to get them to hop to the glove. This is accomplished by placing food on the glove and holding the glove just out of reach of the hawk. The hawk will usually lean as far forward as birdly possibly to reach the tidbit without having to move off its perch. Finally, when it gets hungry enough (usually that night or the next day), it will make that first hop onto the glove for the tidbit. That first hop is a pivotal moment in the relationship between you the bird. After it willingly comes to you once, something changes in the bird’s mind. You are no longer a threat and training typically progresses quickly. From there, you slowly move the glove back a little farther each time until the bird is flying to the glove for a tidbit. I usually start indoors because it reduces distractions. Once it is flying full length of a room, I move the training to outside. At this stage, a creance (long, lightweight rope or string) is required. You keep the bird on the creance and keep calling it to the glove until it is flying full distance (I usually require about 50 yards at least) with little to no hesitation.
During this time, it is usually required to drop the bird’s weight. I let the bird control its own rate of weight loss. I provide it with the opportunity to get food every day. I never starve it. Whether or not it is hungry enough to take the food is up to it. For example, Maya was trapped at 1250 grams. She hopped to the glove for a tidbit that first night, but wasn’t motivated enough to go more than a foot. When I moved the glove back another foot, she decided it wasn’t worth the effort, thus the training session was done for the day. No more food. The next day, her weight was a bit lower and she was a bit hungrier, so she decided it was worth hopping 3 feet to the glove, but no more than that. After a couple 3 feet hops, I moved the glove back another foot, and she was no longer responsive. End session. And so forth, every day. Once her weight reached around 1100 grams, I could get her to do flights of about 10 feet. Finally, after 3 weeks, she was around 1000 g, and would come to the glove with no hesitation from any distance. That was my cue that she was ready for free flight.
The second aspect of training is calling the bird to the lure. The lure can be any object that the bird is trained to come to. Some people choose lures that look like quarry, which I find helpful for initial training, but it doesn’t have to look like anything in particular. My lure for Maya is cylindrical in shape with brown “fur” and a fake white tail. Basically, it represents a cottontail rabbit. She loved it. My lure for Zuko is smaller and oval shaped with two quail wings attached to represent a sparrow. However, the lure for my peregrine last year was shaped like a horse shoe and it worked great. Some people start lure training once the bird is free flying (no leashes attached), but I prefer to have a lure-trained bird before the first free flight. The lure is like a security measure. If the bird comes to the glove, it gets a tidbit. If the bird comes to the lure, it gets a full meal. This can be very useful for emergency situations. For example, one time while out flying Zuko, he got in a fight with another bird and got chased waaayyy far away to a distant tree. At that point, he didn’t want to fly anymore and refused to come to the glove despite being at weight. However, when I held up the lure, the promise of a full meal was too much to resist and he came back. Similarly, Maya once stole a ground squirrel from another hawk. By the time I got to her, she had eaten nearly the whole thing and was sitting on a pole with a full crop. Basically, not hungry at all. She wouldn’t even look at me when I held the glove up, but when I threw the lure out, she came right down. Again, the promise of a huge meal is just too much to pass up. Lures are also a good way to exercise birds, primarily falcons. When lure stooping falcons, the bird has to repetitively climb, dive, and maneuver, which is great exercise and good practice for the bird.
Once the bird is at the proper weight, comes to the glove, and is made to the lure, it is time for free flight and hunting. Every bird species has a different technique for hunting. Most large falcons are trained to “wait on” high above the falconer at heights of 100-1000 feet. The falconer then flushes quarry such as ducks or pheasants, and the falcon stoops from above to catch them. Red-tailed hawks are commonly trained to “follow on” meaning they’ll fly from perch to perch (trees, poles, etc) watching the falconer. This type of falconry is often called “dirt hawking” as the falconer gets down and dirty trampling through bushes trying to scare up rabbits. Its a lot of work and can be very tiring! When a rabbit is flushed, the hawk dives out of the tree and takes chase. They can also be trained to sore over the falconer on slopes (“slope soaring”) which is somewhat similar to the falcon hunting style. Other falconers will carry tall perches with them (“T-perch) into the field for the hawk to sit on. This is most commonly used with harris hawks. Accipiters (coopers hawks, goshawks, etc) are often hunted off the fist. They have explosive acceleration abilities so this technique works well for them. The falconer walks through a field with the bird on the glove and it takes off after anything that flushes. Then there are small birds like kestrels which can hunt in a variety of ways (fist, perch, etc). One of the most common ways to hunt with kestrels is "car hawking.” Driving with an open window and the bird on the fist, and letting it fly out he window of the moving vehicle after birds foraging by the side of the road. This method of hunt can be a lot of fun but is banned in some states. Basically, the method of hunt is will be determined by the capability of your bird species, the quarry you are going after, and the terrain you are working with.
Often, when the bird catches something, the falconer has to “make in” and help the bird dispatch the quarry. Falconry birds often take quarry bigger than what they would commonly take in the wild because they know the falconer will help them with it. An example would be hawks on jack rabbits or some falcons on mallards. They can learn to make the kill on their own, but it is often faster, safer, and more humane for the falconer to assist. The falconer will generally offer a “trade off” to the bird on the kill. For example, when Maya catches a bunny, it takes a lot of effort to “break in” through the skin and fur and get to the good stuff. So when i come up to her with a big juicy piece of red meat on the glove, she is glad to trade. She’ll hop onto the glove for the meat I offer and let me have the bunny. Everyone’s happy :) For the first few kills, it is common to let the bird break in and eat out of what it catches. This helps cement the idea in their mind that that animal means a big meal. I let Maya feed up on her first 3 cottontails so she learned to really love them, then I started trading her off.
And viola! You have a trained hunting partner. At least that’s the gist of it. That’s how it works in an ideal situation. More often than not, some issue will come up that requires a tweak in the training routine, but thats what keeps it exciting ;) You’re always adjusting to meet the birds needs and coming up with new and improved techniques. Its a never ending learning process and no two birds will ever be exactly the same.
Holy crap I just wrote a freakin essay! XD But I wanted to be thorough for you if you’re going to be using it an a story…. Also, I might be stalling on homework a little bit ;)