historical hat

Madame Georgette (active, 1900-1940)

Woman’s Hat, c. 1905

Plaited straw, velvet, artificial roses, and net

“A bouquet of artificial pink roses circles the crown and spills out from under the brim of this dramatic straw hat. Madame Georgette, one of the most famous milliners in Paris, designed it before World War I (1914-1918). The hat’s wide flat shape, was one of Georgette’s signature styles…The elegance of her designs earned her praise as an accomplished and original artist.”

Degas, Impressionism, and the Paris Millinery Trade

St. Louis Art Museum

Guillard Soeurs 

Woman’s Hat, c. 1910

Plain and basket weave straw, ostrich feathers, silk lace, and cotton flowers and leaves

“This hat is particularly impressive as it features two different straw weaving techniques. The body of the hat is made of fine plain-weave straw, while the brim is lined with a coarser basket-weave straw. Delicate cotton flowers and silk lace embellish the crown, along with a massive ostrich plume.”

Degas, Impressionism, and the Paris Millinery Trade

St. Louis Art Museum

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This is a hairstyle timeline that is meant to cover the Taishō era (1912-1926). However the dates for many reference photographs were rather vague, so some might actually fall into Shōwa era (1926-1989). Regrettably I couldn’t cover EVERY single hairstyle from this period so please consider this to be a brief overview. There are no Geisha, Maiko, etc featured here; they will be covered in another fashion timeline someday.

Some interesting notes about Meiji-Taisho era from Liza Crihfield Dalby’s Kimono: Fashioning Culture (1993)

·         “Men and women of Meiji had gulped up Western culture with all the indiscriminate enthusiasm of new converts. By Taishō, Japanese sensibilities vis-à-vis the West were much smoother. This was Japan’s political equivalent of the … social scene of the American Roaring Twenties. Japanese born during Taishō would enter adolescence as modern boys and girls. Significantly, women opened their closets to Western clothing during this decade. Kimono has lost space ever since.” (pg. 124)

·         “By 1915 Japan was beginning to feel itself a world-class nation, more confident of its military strength and social development. Ordinary Japanese were inclined to look at their society in light of how life might be bettered by adapting foreign ideas, or made more interesting by acquiring foreign fashions. Borrowing from the West was of course not new, but it had now become a more reciprocal and respectable process.” (pg. 124)

WOMEN’s HAIR:

·         In the Meiji era “a few women cropped their hair, but these courageous souls were simply regarded as weird” and indecent (pg. 75)

·         “If cutting the hair short was too radical [in Meiji Japan], as public reaction attests, women’s hair did gain a new option in the sokugami style, a pompadour resembling the chignons worn by Charles Dana Gibson’s popular Gibson girls. The further the front section, or ‘eaves,’ of the hair protruded, the more daring the style. The sokugami style bunched the hair, coiling it in a bun at the crown of the head. Unlike traditional coiffures, sokugami did not require the heavy use of pomade, pins, bars, strings, and false hair to hold its shape. Its appeal was promoted as healthier and more rational – hence, more enlightened- than the old ways.” (pg. 75)

flickr

dames hoeden 1900 by janwillemsen

Woman’s Bonnet, 1875-1900

Plaited straw, velvet ribbon, twisted paper and wire flowers, and silk lining

“This elegant bonnet is known in French as a capote “toute en fleurs” or “all in bloom.” The bonnet reflects a common style from the late 1800s in Paris, and could be seen throughout the most popular fashion journals. Bonnets typically featured a wide array of artificial flowers as decorations. This example is trimmed with small, cream-colored blossoms that seem to bloom from the straw crown. Pale-blue velvet ribbons complete the effect.”

Degas, Impressionism, and the Paris Millinery Trade

St. Louis Art Museum

Hats!

Well, not sims, but something anyway:

This is the hat for my Second Empire/ Victorian/ Civil war outfit.

I also redid the parasol there. It’s close to period, but the silk also was, so it slited as soon as I tried to open it. Went with a simple black taffetas so it could go with other outfits later on. 

That’s about all for this project, time to move on to something else!

This, for example:

1905 day dress, with the S shaped corset and the A skirt. Will do in pinkish lavender taffetas and not blue, but otherwise, close to what I’m going for.

Since I was in the mood for a little fun, I started with the hat!

Those 1900 hats are BIG, and decorated to the nines, lol!

Quite the dramatic statement, and fun to make.

Since it’s new era with a totally different shape to what I did previously, I have the undergarments to make first: Corset cover, and petticoat, mostly.

My generic corset will have to do, though, because I’m not tackling an S shape. I happen to be naturally S shaped anyway, so I should get away with it…

I hope!