hip ties

Comparison between Orchard Corset CS-426 and Timeless Trends long cut corset

I received an ask about this, but for some reason the images aren’t showing up properly, so I’m turning this into its own post and hoping that the pictures work.

I worked on the patterns for both the CS-426 with hip ties and the new silhouette of TT longline with hip ties, so I’m pretty familiar with the contrast between them. The following aren’t ALL the differences, but the most glaring ones.

This is the CS-426 with hip ties. It’s 13″ long in the center front, and 10.5″ long at the princess seam. I believe only the first panel is interfaced, the other panels of the corset are flatlined.

If I remember correctly, the ribs are 6″ bigger than the waist, the upper hipspring is +10″ and the lower hipspring is +13″ (with the hip ties closed). So the ribs are similar to the TT longline, but the hips are slightly bigger.

Also look at the way the first and second panels are shaped. The center front panel swoops inward at the waist and then back out so it’s wider at the bottom again. The second panel is crescent shaped. Panel 3 ends up being relatively skinnier at the hip. The ribcage overall is a bit more conical, too.

Here’s yours truly in the Timeless Trends longline. I don’t quite have the hips to fill out the size 24″, so here’s Sarah in a similar one (although the beige makes the panel shapes hard to see):

The TT longline is 13″ long in the center front (same as OC) but the princess seam is slightly longer (11″) because it’s a more of a straight-ish line up to the hip (it doesn’t really swoop up over the thigh and then back down like the 426 does). The peak under the bust is slightly less dramatic in the TT corset compared to the OC, too.

The ribs are 6.5″ bigger than the waist (a tiny bit bigger than the 426 ribspring) and it is more rounded/ less conical in the ribs. When the hip ties are closed, the upper hip is +7″ and the lower hip is +12″, so a bit smaller than the 426 (but hip ties are expandable so both corsets can accommodate very wide hipsprings. (On that note, if someone had more narrow hips naturally, they can relace the hip ties so that the grommets overlap and the hips measure about 2 inches smaller than the pattern was drafted for.)

Now look at the patterning on the TT longline. The first panel is more straight (it actually tapers a bit), and the 2nd panel is shaped almost like a champagne flute (this contributes to the rib cupping). There is some generous hip distribution in panel 3 to help combat front-hip wrinkling, and I tell you that panel 3 is a very weird shape on paper.

Now here’s the Orchard CS-426 in the back, and then TT longline in the back:

Although you can’t quite see the difference in the panel shapes (and the lacing gap is fairly wide), I can tell you that panel 5 of the TT corset is also a really weird shape to help begin to curve with the lumbar area in the back. These corsets are designed to help support a neutral curve, whereas I find that many other OTR corsets are almost too straight in the back.

Construction-wise, Orchard uses a stiffer busk and stiffer back steels in their 426. They give a very flat front and flat back, which I know a lot of people like for that almost-Edwardian profile. TT corsets have a more flexible busk and steels, but we tried to make up for that with clever patterning to prevent dishing in the front, and sewing the boning channels very tight in the center back to prevent the steels from bowing like “( )” in the back. Also, TT fuses all panels of their fashion fabric to strength fabric, not only the first panel. It helps with wrinkling, although there are still a few wrinkles in the satin (Sarah has scoliosis, hence why the left hip fills out a little more than the right). But if you try the cotton corsets it’s unlikely that you’ll have to deal with significant wrinkles regardless of whether you go for OC or TT.

I could go into other subtle differences, but those are the big ones. And this explanation took way longer than I expected. I hope it was helpful.