Recently I’ve been playing with wet on wet watercolor techniques. This watercolor technique works wonders with creating backgrounds, skies, water, and space. By wetting your work area first with water, you can create organic shapes and water movement that mimic things you would find in nature. Make sure you only wet areas you want the colors to flow with clean water. Or your painting will become muddy and washed out.
This is step one. Filling in the area with color. If you experience pooling you can either:
1. Mop it up with a brush/towel/paper
2. Tilt your paper to evenly distribute the water but risk muddying colors
3. Let it dry for a darker effect but risk getting bleeding
Experiment with different color combinations. You can look up galaxies, nebulas, and stars online but just experimenting works even better.
Possible color combos that worked:
1. Warm colors: reds/oranges/pinks/yellow
2. Cool colors: Blue/purple/green
3. Mix it up, if you add in just cool colors, you can add a pop/drop of red to really give it a pop.
Now we need to darken up the borders and around the organic color flows you have created. Let it dry slightly and then mix up very dark purple with a base of blue.
Fill in edges and then go back and get high paint to water ratios of your colors (orange) and dip your brush in those areas. Watch the color bleed into the dark purple. Add and experiment as desired.
Check out that bleeding action! It’s exactly what you want.
Now take a white gel pen/white gouache/white watered down acrylic paint and tap your brush with a pencil to get nice star variations. I even used silver calligraphy ink to add even more dimension to the stars. Not all stars are white. You can make them silver, gold, light blue, light yellow, cream or anything that works for you.
What I did next is scan some of my “space balls” into my computer, cut them out into perfect circles and arrange them as a print. You can check it out below.
Experiment and enjoy! I think this picture “tutorial” is okay but a video would definitely convey some of the technique better. Look forward to that.
So, this is my leather armor making
tutorial! Some of you, my friends, could
see it on DoA some time ago (I completely forgot that I posted it
there ^^`), but still, here it is.
SOME WARNINGS! This post is going to be long and picture heavy!^^`It contains photos of nude doll parts. Also, I use real animal leather for this project, please consider this, if you are sensitive to this subject.
The model for this armor
was the “previous” version of Hilda, my OC. Now Hilda is a
IOS Anima, but back then she was a Leekeworld Adolf, heavily modded
and on Akagi 70 body modified from male to female.
In our story Hilda
is not a rich person, with no money to buy an expensive armor, but
she, herself was an blacksmith’s apprentice, and could create a
pieces of armor herself. So this armor will not be very pompous, and
I will try to keep it as simple as it can be. As a references for
Hilda’s armor I thought about Brienne’s of Tarth from Game of Thrones
outfit, some medieval armor pieces from different historical
resources and my own imagination ^__^
For this project I
needed a lot of things:
pieces of leather, this time I took brown color and 2mm thick. 2.
Sculptural plasticine 3. Plastic film (I used
food wrap) 4. Good firm thread, maybe capron, or any other,
that will survive the tension 5. A pot with water and
kitchen-stove, to boil the water 6. Furniture 7. Wood
burning machine 8. A lot of eyelets, rivets, buckles 9. Linen
fabric for clotes. 10. Some
other stuff I might forget to mention, but you`ll see it in the
1. I re-stringed a doll, and left stringed only the torso part. While working on the armor pieces, it will be moved a lot, so legs and arms will be quite a disturbing things >_<
2. Wrapped the body around in the plastic film (I used regular food wrap, it worked just fine), to prevent color from leather damage the doll.
3. With a sculptural plasticine I formed armor shape. I need this armor be fitting, but not tight. So I need a little additional material to the body, because boiled leather will replicate all body curves, all joints and even the nipples. X) You can also make an armor or a leather piece of clothing that fits like a glove without using the plasticine.
4. After waited about 40 min. for plasticine to harden (a faster method: put the piece you are working on in a fridge for about 20 minutes) I wrapped the body once again.
Today I made this cool snail stencil print based on the great video tutorial by Nuclear Snail!
The edges are not perfect because I’ve basically no patience and I’m lazy but the whole shirt is so damn awesome now! I’m in love.