Here is a Free pattern with step by step photos instruction for a rounded zipper pocket with gusset! It’s perfect for the Tosti utility jacket and the Pepernoot hooded coat from Waffle Patterns. The pocket is very functional, so I designed referring to mens gadget bags.
1. Cut the parts and put the markings as the pattern indication. I’m using tape for the Pocket Side pieces, but you can use any matching fabric. Be careful the photo shows only right side parts, please double them for L/R sides pockets. I use a square fabric piece instead of the bodice for the explanation. Put interfacing on the zipper place of the pocket and bodice. *In this example, I put interfacing on whole pocket parts, because of the fabric is stretchy.
< Pocket side / Zipper >
1. Put markings on the zipper following the Pocket side template. Fold the edges of the Pocket Side pieces on the seamline.
2. Stitch the Pocket Side pieces to the zipper. If your zipper is longer than the marking, shorten the zipper or cover by the Pocket side and sew over the zipper teeth. The connected piece will be the same length as the template.
< Attach zipper to pocket >
1. Place the Pocket Side with Zipper along the rounded line of the pocket piece right sides together. Sew with the 6mm(1/4”) seam allowance. Clip into the curve.
2. Turn it to right side. Topstitch along the edge.
< Shape pocket >
1. Press and crease the seamline of the edge before stitching. Check the diagonal stitch line on the edge.
2. Fold the edge of the pocket putting together the diagonal lines as the pic. 3. Sew the diagonal line.
4. Cut the edge. 5. Open the seam. 6. Turn it right side out. Shape and press the edge.
< Attach pocket to bodice >
1. Check the pocket place markings on the bodice. *You can put markings using the pattern pieces of the pocket as a guide.
2/3. Place the pocket side edge onto the bodice right sides facing along the round marking and stitch. If aligning curve is difficult, work it with divide 2 part like the pic.
4. Shape the pocket and place on the bodice. Fold both the edges of the pocket side as M shape like the pic. Stitch the edges.
***** Voila! ******
Hope the instruction is clear enough for you. If you have any questions about the pattern and instruction, please contact me. If you put your photos of your creation from my patterns on your blog or other media, please share with Waffle Pattern’s address and don’t forget the tag #wafflepatterns on the SNSs!