Like living sculptures the trained and pruned forms of Ficus carica (fig) cultivars were coming into leaf on the wall of Wyken Hall restaurant - The Leaping Hare, in Suffolk. In summer the wall is awash with lush green foliage but I really like the winter look of grey branches on the grey timber. Ficus will tolerate poor growing conditions - mine is planted in gravel above dry clay soil and some how still produces tasty fruits.
Der Biergarten is an outdoor area in which beer, other drinks, and local food are served. Beer gardens originated in Southern Germany (especially Bayern) and are most common there. They’re usually attached to a beer hall, pub, or restaurant. Beer gardens in Germany developed in the Kingdom of Bavaria in the 19th century, during which dark lager beer was predominant. To provide beer during the summer, large breweries dug cellars in the banks of the River Isar for the storage of beer, to keep it cool. To further reduce the cellar temperature, they covered the river banks with gravel and planted chestnut trees, whose leaves provided cooling shadow. Soon after, the beer cellars were not only used to store but also to serve beer. Simple tables and benches were set up among the trees, creating “beer gardens” which soon became a popular venue for the people. This aggrieved smaller breweries that remained in Munich. To prevent further loss of customers, they petitioned Maximilian I to forbid the serving of food in the beer cellars surrounding Munich. Consequently, in riposte, the beer gardens allowed their patrons to bring their own food - which is still common practice today. The decree is no longer in force, and many beer gardens do serve food today. According to the current Biergartenverordnung, traditional beer gardens that still allow patrons to bring their own food and serve beer under shading trees are privileged in regard to a later closing hour and noise limits. An important part of life for many citizens, the Bavarian Biergärten usually serve common local cuisine such as Radi (radishes), Brezn (pretzels), Obatzda (cheese), halbes Hendl (grilled chicken), Hax'n (pork knuckle) and Steckerlfisch (grilled fish).
Beer gardens are still very popular in Germany. The Hirschgarten is a restaurant in Munich that is noted for its beer garden, which may be the largest in the world - it has seating for over 8000 people. The restaurant dates back to 1791. In 2011, the world record for ‘The worlds longest beer garden’ was set in Berlin by the Berlin Beer Festival, measuring 1,820m.
honestly if you want a “quirky betta tank” it is possible you just gotta go BIG. like, get one of those big ass multi-gallon glass drink holders & set up an internal filter or something.
check this bad boy. 5 gallons, glass, with a cutesy little stand (at 50 a pop from a restaurant supply store) plug that spigot REAL good & combine:
suction cup to the side. gravel/sand, silk plants OR take advantage of the vertical space by planting some anacharis, ferns & swords.
slap a heater in there & find a way to prop up the lid just a smidge to stick some cables out and get some airflow to the water surface.
and there ya go. fun, quirky betta tank that your animal isnt fucking miserable in!
“But I don’t have the money for that!” well then too fkin bad; i guess get your ass down to petco for their dollar-a-gallon sale & grab a 10gal for a fifth of the price instead. expect to dump 100+ dollars into a setup your animal will be happy in because its your pet and you love it.
How did you start your fish tank? I'd ;like to start one up myself but I have no idea where to start... Any tips or pointers?
Hello there anon! Thank you for the ask :DD
I’ve got tons of tips and pointers for ya :3 Below I’ll explain the basics of fishkeeping, the stuff that generally applies to all freshwater fish tanks like the basic supplies you’ll need to gather and explain the nitrogen cycle! (I’m not sure about saltwater stuff, though, as I haven’t gotten into that part of the hobby…yet ;p) The species you want to keep will dictate the specifics of your tank, beyond the basics, though, so keep that in mind going forward! :)
The Basic Supplies: - Tank - Filter - Heater/Chiller (if required) - Thermometer - Substrate (optional) - Décor/Hides - Water Test Kit
Tanks: Choose a tank that is sufficient in size for the species you plan on keeping! Long tanks are almost always better than tall tanks, as fish swim side-to-side and not up-and-down :) If this is your first ever fish tank, I’d start out with a fish tank no smaller than 5 or 10 gallons, if not larger! Larger volumes of water hold a stable cycle more easily! :)
Filtration: There are three main types of filtration: mechanical/physical, biological, and chemical. Mechanical filtration is what filters out particles from the water, large or small. Biological filtration refers to the nitrifying bacteria that perform the nitrogen cycle! Chemical filtration is filtration that helps to take certain chemicals out of the water.
Types of Filters: - Hang-On-Back (HOB) filters hang on the lip of the tank. They have a ‘media basket’ where the filter media goes (usually cartridges). If you buy a filter that requires filter cartridges, I recommend replacing those with a ceramic media, sponge media, or both since you’ll have to replace the cartridge eventually and that can disrupt your cycle. Fluval AquaClear filters are a great HOB filter for larger tanks, and come with sponge (physical, biological filtration), ceramic (biological filtration), and carbon media (chemical filtration)!
- Sponge filters are great for fish and other aquatic animals that prefer (or require) low-flow! These filters are basically blocks of sponge hooked up to an air pump. The air pump forces air up through the sponge, creating a vacuum that sucks up particles (mechanical filtration) and water (biological filtration). The air is forced out the top of the sponge, creating bubbles that agitate the surface, aiding in gas exchange!
-Canister filters are like HOB filters on steroids. Instead of a ‘media basket’ you get a literal ‘media bucket’ (biological, chemical, mechanical filtration). A canister filter (also called an external filter) is placed somewhere outside the tank, and doesn’t hang on the lip like a HOB does. Its great if you don’t want to see your filter or if you need a ton of filtration for a larger tank :p Mini canister filters also exist, if you’d like one for a smaller tank :)
- Undergravel Filters are something I’ve heard pretty mixed reviews about, and I’ve never personally used one. They’re usually grated, plastic, thin hollow block filters that you put under the substrate of your aquarium (I believe gravel works best with these filters, as I assume using sand or another small-particle substrate would fall into the filter? someone please correct me if I’m wrong .-.). They may provide enough surface area for nitrifying bacteria (biological filtration) if you have a very small bioload, or if you could fill them with some type of media…these are probably the most painful to clean, though, since you’d have to take apart your entire tank…
Heaters & Chillers: Your fish may require a heater or chiller! If they do, its for good reason. Fish are ectothermic (like reptiles), meaning that they rely on their environment to help them regulate body temperature. (Humans like you and me are endothermic, meaning that we can produce our own body heat/regulate our body’s temperature.)
A fish that is too cold will become lethargic, stressed, and may refuse to eat. Temperature affects bodily processes as well, such as digestion, circulation, and metabolism regulation. Temperatures that are colder will slow down these bodily processes and warmer temperatures will usually do the opposite. Because improper temperature is stressful for any fish, they will experience a suppressed immune system as well, and will be more susceptible to illnesses as a result :/ Some fish require heaters/higher temperatures to function properly (Bettas, tetras, other tropical fish). Some fish require no heater, or the addition of chiller, to function properly (goldfish, minnows, danios).
As a general rule of thumb, heaters should be 5-10 watts per gallon. Adjustable heaters are always more reliable than non-adjustable heaters. Adjustable heaters also usually have thermostats, so they turn on and off automatically to ensure that the aquarium’s temperature stays constant(ish). Usually you don’t need a chiller unless you’re keeping a temperate- or cold-water species and where you live it doesn’t get below the high 70s all year.
Thermometer: Yes it’s necessary! You need to be able to monitor what temperature your tank is, whether you have a heater, chiller, or neither :) Even if you have an adjustable heater with a thermostat, it may not be accurate to +/-1 degree. Avoid those strip-sticker thermometers. They’re not very accurate :/ You can buy glass ones at Walmart for about 1.50$ though! :p
Substrate: There are lots of different substrates to choose from! Gravel, sand, plant substrate (like fluorite), or no substrate at all! Some substrates are ‘inert’ (don’t affect pH or other parameters) some substrates are ‘active’ (affect pH or other parameters). Some aquatic species have a very specific range of pH/KH/GH, like shrimp, and may require substrates that help you achieve that range of values. Some species require certain substrates for their health and safety, like corydoras, which require sand (or barebottom) as gravel and other rough substrates can cut up their tummies or injure their barbels. If the species you keep doesn’t require any special substrate, then choose whatever substrate you like best! It’s your tank! Have fun with it! :)
Décor: One of the funnest (idc if funnest isn’t a word *3*) part of setting up an aquarium is decorating it!! Some fish have delicate fins (like bettas) that require either live or silk (material, non-plastic) plants and décor devoid of sharp edges. Hides are also important. Providing adequate caves and cover for your fish to hide in/feel safe in/explore is the functional aspect of décor. Make sure you’re meeting your animal’s needs :) Other than making sure that your décor is safe and functional for the creatures you plan to keep, go full ham!! Crazy color gravel with wacky colors and glow in the dark caves or an aquascaped, planted tank with driftwood and rocks! :D
Water Test Kit: In order for you to maintain the health of your fish, you’ll need to know what your water parameters are :) You should at least test for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, and pH. You may need to test for other things like copper, KH, or GH depending on the species you’re keeping. A liquid test kit (like the API Freshwater Master Kit) is easy to read and very accurate :) (plus you get to use test tubes n stuff…like the lil fish scientist you are *3*)
The Nitrogen Cycle!
*ALL* fish (yes that includes bettas…and all animals for that matter) produce waste. Because all aquatic animals produce waste, they require (biological) filtration of some sort to process that waste.
Fish produce waste in the form of ammonia. Ammonia is toxic above 0ppm (parts per million). So you’ve got all this ammonia floating around in the water, right? and you’ve got water running through your filter…so these bacteria start growing all over your fish tank, wherever there’s water flow, but we want to concentrate on the bacteria that are growing in your filter media. This bacteria will be processing the waste that your fish or aquatic animal produces :)
So your fish produced some waste, and it’s floating around in the water as ammonia. The first bacteria (#1) that grows will ‘eat’ the ammonia and then ‘poop’ out nitrites.
Nitrites are also toxic to aquatic animals above 0ppm though :/ so then another bactiera (#2) grows and it ‘eats’ these nitrites that are floating around in the water and ‘poops’ out nitrates.
If you have live plants, they will use some of the ammonia, nitrite, and/or nitrates in the water as nutrients :) Some plants will use more than others, as some plants are heavy root feeders, some are floaters, and some prefer to be somewhere in the water column. (note: live plants SHOULD NOT totally replace water changes! water changes are still necessary even for planted tanks :3)
To recap: Fish waste (ammonia) -> bacteria #1 -> nitrite -> bacteria #2 -> nitrate -> water change
If you have any other questions, Anon, please send me a message or another ask!! :)
If anyone would like to add onto this, or if corrections need to be made, please reblog/comment/let me know! :)
Redid the fish room! Got rid of the sorority, now the girls each have their own 5 gal. Improved the 20 gal I’m attempting to breed gudgeons in (dark gravel, more plants). Also added the awesome black wire stand, where eventually the goldfish 55 gallon is going to live.
I feel like calum would be the type of boyfriend that when you first move in together would want a dog. you wouldn’t want one right away so you always said no. calum would end up doing his research on different dogs to get and you would always say no (you would already have a dog breed in mind but you didn’t think you were ready yet). you wanted to get used to living with cal before you got a pet. after you said no to a dog calum would suggest every other pet. ‘y/n can we get a cat?’ 'no calum.’ 'what about a rabbit or a guinea pig?’ 'no calum.’ one day he would take you shopping and you would end up in the pet store. he would drag you around looking at all the different pets with you still saying no. until he walked over to the betta fish. 'can we please get one of these? look how pretty it is and I hear they are easy to take care of.’ 'a fish doesn’t seem too hard. I guess we could get one.’ he would be super excited and pick out a tank and gravel and some plants as you picked the prettiest fish. 'cal, don’t forget the water conditioner and food pellets.’ 'okay y/n, I don’t want our new baby to die.’
(A/n I just got a betta fish which is why I wrote this and I am super excited and it’s name is fletcher and he’s super cute)
Can you help me plan my stock for a 10 gallon, 20 inch, filtered and heated tank? It has 3 plants, currently.I like color and variety.
Hi, for a 10 gallon with a length of 20 inch I’d go for only two species, one at the bottom one at the middle of the tank so it won’t be too full. Keep in mind, the more animals you have in a tank, the more frequent you have to change water and clean it. Generally shrimp go with most fish, expect of those who actively hunt shrimps. Don’t mix different colored Neocaridina shrimp, the mix-breed and their offspring will be just gray/transparent. Snails are perfect companions, too. Ok, I give it a try, never planned like this before:
Variant I – South Americans
Corydoras pygmaeus(you need at least a school of 10 fish)
(you need at least a school of 10 fish)
Corys are mostly on the ground of the tank and help keeping it clear and Ember tetras give a great color to the tank! I’d also plant it heavily so the fish can hide plus red color on green looks awesome!
Tank specifications (to fit both species):
Water temperature: 75-78°F
soft ground like sand or soil, rounded gravel (no sharp gravel)
live plants (a lot more than three)
Layout: A lot of plants at the sides, some free space in the middle, planted at the background. Bright or dark sand.
Variant II – South East Asians
Boraras urophthalmoides (you need at least a school of 10 fish)
Corydoras pygmaeus again (see above)
The red miniature rasbora are very pretty fish and develop beautiful colors if fed with live food. They’re pretty frail so another species in their tank should be more active towards the ground, like Cory fish again or some Coolie loach. Like most schooling fish they like to hide in planted tanks, so plant the hell out of your tanks ;) In this size, good lighting and maybe even a CO2-system are affordable.
Water temperature: 75.5-78.5°F
soft ground like sand or soil, rounded gravel (no sharp gravel)
Layout: A lot of plants at the sides, some less plants in the middle, planted at the background, best would be a ground covering plant, too. Floaters to keep some light out. Dark sand. The Boraras like a darker / low light tank.
Variant III –
Endler’s Guppy Tank
Poecilia wingei (you need at least a school of 5 fish but they’re better off in big schools of like 20-50 fish)
(you need at least 20 snails)
Neritina sp. (choose one species but take care they fit the temperature and pH)
(you need at least 4 snails)
These small guppies are even smaller than their relatives and have spectacular colors. They live best in a ‘species tank’ (ok, I don’t know the right term, I mean a tank where only one species of fish is kept). The guppy school need more females than males. NO other fish of the family
Poeciliidae inside of the tank, they can cross-breed. The snails are super useful to keep the ground clean and eat some algae off the glass/decoration/stones/etc. Don’t overfeed the fish to prevent too many snails.
Water temperature: 75-82°F
Layout: Planted tank, bright or dark sand
Phew… I hope this helped a bit. A ten gallon tank is really small for fish, so I hope these options are passably appropriate to the species…
Alternatively you can stock a ten gallon with shrimp, as stated at the top. Shrimp are total cuties and you can choose of a wide variety of colors…
And even more in my shrimp-tag! If you decide to get shrimps, take care what water requirements they have. Bee shrimp need very soft water. Neocardinia shrimp are more robust.
Since lovely weather is coming our way with the beginning of spring (Well, in Southern California it’s always a bit warm *sad face*), I thought it’d be a good idea to have a little outdoorsy post (but if you really wanted to, you can just do this inside!). I recently re-potted some of my succulents and here’s a lil post about them:
What you’ll need:
One or multiple succulents
How to plant:
Pick a container to plant your succulent(s) in. You can pick a larger one to arrange multiple succulents or a smaller one to put a few or less in. I got mine at the thrift store for 50 cents- look at thrift stores or dollar stores if you’re on a budget! Clean your container with water and dish soap, then dry.
Add a thin layer of small rocks to the bottom for proper drainage.
Fill the container with soil.
Make holes to plant each succulent, it’s easier to use a finger rather than a shovel if the container opening is smaller.
Put your succulents in the holes and make sure they are set with soil. You can add a thin layer on top of the soil for looks. Tada! You’ve got yourself a planted succulent!
Succulents are super low-maintenance, but there’s still some work you need to put in to them. Plant care tips:
Put your succulents near a window so they have light (aim for indirect sunlight). Be careful of direct sunlight during the summer months. Too much harsh light can burn the plant.
Don’t over-water them. I water mine around once a week. Depending on where you live, you can test out which amount of water and watering schedule makes your plant healthiest! During winter they ‘hibernate,’ so they need less water. Late spring/summer is their growth period, so they’ll need a bit more watering!