gloss spray


I get a snow day tomorrow so I’m celebrating today! Here’s a quick likkle makeup look for ya 😏✨

PRIMERS | @AmazingCosmetics (Line Smoother + Primer) + @ELFcosmetics Eyelid Primer

EYES | @MakeupGeekcosmetics Shadow (CocoBear) + #MakeupGeekcosmetics Foiled Pigment (Intermission)

FACE | @UrbanDecaycosmetics All Nighter Foundation (12)

CONCEALER | @Tartecosmetics Shape Tape Concealer (Deep) 

BAKE | @CinemaSecretspro Setting Powder (Rich)

POWDER | @CoverFX Powder (N110)

CONTOUR | Makeup Geek Contour (Scandal)

LINER | Tartiest Eye Liner (Black)

MASCARA | #TarteCOSMETICS Mascara (Black)

HIGHLIGHT | Makeup Geek Highlight (Ignite) #DUOCHROME

LASHES | @Kokolashes (Amor)

LIPS | NYX Lip Liner (Expresso) + Makeup Geek Foiled Lip Gloss (Headliner)

SETTING SPRAY | #UrbanDecay All Nighter  

Music | Hymn For The Weekend Club Mix 
#myblackisbeautiful #blackgirlsrock #beauty #crueltyfree #crueltyfreebeauty #veganmakeup #nycvlogger #makeupforblackwomen #bgki #cocoaswatches #darkskinmakeup #beautyblogger #makeup #caribbeangirls #makeupobsessed#makeupjunkie #makeupformelaningirls #makeupforblackwomen #bblogger  #minutemakeup #beautyblogger #nyc #jasmine_rose

(at New York, New York)

Made with Instagram

Pairing: Balthazar x Reader
Word count: 915
Warnings: Fluff. One minor cuss word.
Request: ( Anonymous ) Hi! Could you please do a fic where the reader has bought a new perfume (one of those strong-smelling ones) and the boys thinks it smells good but one of the angels (doesn’t really matter who) gets almost angry because their senses are much more heightened and tell them that they smell intoxicating on their own and doesn’t need “fake scents” :) Real fluffy? 

Keep reading

Spoiler (Stephanie Brown) Weapon Tutorial

Another piece down for MegaCon 2017!! I created this tutorial from scratch since, unlike with Nightwing, I didn’t have anything to start with. Below is a step-by-step description of how to make Spoiler’s weapon for your own cosplay :)

Other Tutorials:
Nightwing Escrima Sticks/Bo Staff


1. Two (2) ¾ inch PVC Caps
2. Two (2) ¾ inch PVC Couplings
3. Three (3) ¾ inch PVC Pipes
4. Nine (9) feet of silver chain
5. Eight (8) 3 inch pieces of silver wire (beading wire for jewelry making works)
6. One (1) can of Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X Dark Gray Spray Paint
7. One (1) can of Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X Gloss Clear Spray Paint


You can ask the people at the hardware store of your choice to cut the pipes in-store, or you can do it yourself at home with a PVC cutter. I have the HDX Ratcheting PVC Cutter myself. The chain is harder to cut yourself, so I got mine measured and cut at the store.

1. Cut the three (3) pipes (P1 - P3) into 18 inch sections 


1. Paint caps CA1 and CA2 gray 
2. Paint couplings CO1 and CO2 gray  
3. Paint pipes P1 - P3 gray
4. After the gray paint dries, spray each piece with clear
5. See the paint can instructions for drying and handling time


After the paint is dry, follow the assembly chart above. 

To attach the chain:

1. Cut wire into eight sections of three inches each
2. Take two pieces of wire and tie them together to form an “X” shape
3. Lace the first link of one end of the silver chain into the “X” and use two free pieces of wire to tie the chain and “X” wire together (maintain the “X” shape)
4. Run the silver chain through each pipe so that it runs through all three
5. At the end of P1, bend the wire “X” over the sides of the pipe and secure with CA1. Remove any excess wire
6. Repeat for the other end of the chain, using four pieces of wire, P3, and CA2

If you want to use the weapon as a bo staff, simply connect pipe P2 to couplings CO1 and CO2. If you do not want to use the weapon as a bo staff, you do not need to use couplings CO1 and CO2 at all. 

Lastly, I also wrapped the pipes with duct tape for better grip. This is especially useful if you’re wearing gloves. And it looks pretty cool too! Leave a little space for CO1 and CO2 to connect to P2 if you intend to use the weapon as a bo staff too. End tutorial! 


Here’s the Barbie Family House cottage so far. I’ve masked off certain areas and painted the rest of the house white so that the wooden looking parts were painted paint and I defined certain sculpted things like the doors on the main piece and painted the interior window panes to stand out.

I then spray painted the floor piece from a pink plastic to a grey tiled area and a brown wooden planking area. I filled the tile gaps with plaster of paris as grout then gloss sprayed the floor to be more shiny.

I then detailed the outside areas with some paint. Not the neatest job but it looks okay in pictures. I then glued on a white box on the right window to cover up the faux cat/flower pot plastic thing. The flowers are temporary until I find something better but I’m happy with how it looks considering the plastic the window frames melts easily with my dremel so I can’t exactly cut it off.

I’m hoping to maybe put in a window seat on the inside and do something with the door that can swing open cuz it has a half circle indent under its window.

Anyway, I’m aiming to keep the general “feel” of this house cuz I really do like its colour scheme and detailing, I just want it to be more… mature looking than a single blue blob lol.


I made a BJD helmet for my Loki fullset that is yet to be shown here. Here are some in-progress pics and the photos of a final result.

I made a base out of cardboard over the wire frame that defines the main shape and creates support.
A thin wire is glued with hot glue onto the sides of the helmet to help it hold the shape better and to create a certain amount of sturdiness.

I had to buy a paper mache because I had to even out the surface of the helmet, and my usual self-hardening stuff is not bendable after it dries.

The horns are made of plywood, sanded down, and their shape is enhanced with Mungyo Sculpt Dry (best self-hardening clay ever IMHO). And the horns are detachable! Because the storage space is precious, and it’s a pain to carry such a fragile item to the parties and outdoor photosessions!

The base covered with a sheets of EVA styrofoam, embossed, primed with liquid primer, painted with several shades of acrylics and glossed with automotive varnish spray.

I didn’t do an exact copy of any Marvel helmet versions but rather did my own, just because a plain copying is kinda boring to me. I like the very first “Thor” helmet version better, so you can see the similarities. The horns are a bit thinner, and the whole helmet should look more delicate, because… Well, when you’ll see the whole outfit you’ll understand why.

Long Fall Boot Tutorial (Pt 1)

So i figured that since i get a lot of questions on how i made my Long Fall Boots, that i’d try to make a tutorial on my process of making them and hopefully it’ll help some other people out. I can’t stress enough though, that if you’re planing to make these boots and you want to do them a different way or try out something new, go right ahead! Part of the fun of making a cosplay is figuring out how you’re going to put the costume together!

So the first thing i’m going to say before getting any farther is that these are not that cheap to make. Honestly i think i spent about $150 to get all the parts for it. Also, my boots were heavily influenced off of two other tutorials: Props N’@ and Raritarous. Please go and check them out, they have amazing tutorials! There’s no way i could have built my boots without them.

Alright, so lets get down to business (…to defeat the Huns). So the first thing you’re going to want is a pair of high boots (i got mine from Value Village). You’re going to want to be careful about what boots you use though, the whole project depends on them. They need to be tall, at the very least up to your knees and with a heel angle you like (mine were about 4 inch heels). It’s also best if the shoes are either black or white to begin with, it’ll save you a lot of paint later on, trust me. The boots should also fit slightly looser, at least half a size too big. I made the mistake of getting boots that fit me snugly and it’s now a real pain to get my feet in the boots, they almost don’t fit. The fiber-glassing later on tightens the boot up and makes it shrink about half a size. It doesn’t matter if the shoes have a zipper on the side of them, honestly it might be better if they do because you can make them fit looser by leaving it undone (i think that was my saving grace with my shoes). As for the material of the shoes, it would probably be best if they were a sort of leather or fake leather but mine were suede. It worked out in the end and gave the black parts more of a matte look but it caused me to use lots of cans of paint to cover it. 

You can’t see it too well, but if you look at my original boots you can see that the heel part is not fully connected to the rest of the bottom of the shoe. Try and find a boot where it looks like the heel can be easily pried off without damaging any of the rest of the shoe.

For the rest of this part i’ll try and list all the materials i used and an estimate cost (in CAD):

A pair of high heel boots (Roughly $25)
Two 3 ft long, 1/8 in thick, 1 ½ inch wide steel ($14 for both at Home Depot)
Gorilla wood glue ($5)
Fiberglass Mat ($7)
Fiberglass Resin ($19)
Bondo Body Filler 14-oz ($13)
A pack of cheap paint brushes ($2)
(the resin will kill them, don’t use brushes you want to keep)
3 pack, 100 grit sand paper ($5)
JB Weld ($11)
Super Glue ($10)
A pair of big garbage shoes (you just need the rubber sole from it)
Spray Primer ($6)
Black Matte Spray Paint ($7)
White Gloss Spray Paint ($6-$12 depending on how many)
Pack of disposable Gloves ($?)
4 Cam Buckles and utility straps ($12)
Enough black soft fabric to line upper boot ($?)
8 square rings that the straps can fit through ($10)
6 screws long enough to go through boot and cap style nuts ($?)

Hopefully i didn’t miss anything, but those are the main pieces that go into making these shoes. A few things i’m not too sure of on prices since i already had them in my house.

That’s probably enough for one post, ill continue the actual process in the next part.

Part 2

Somehow can never do a simple makeup look anymore.

Eyes - ABH Modern Renaissance
Foundation- L'Oréal Infallible Pro Matte
Concealer - Laura Mercier High Coverage Concealer for Under Eye
Powder -Sascha Buttercup
Mascara -Blinc Mascara Amplified (Love this!)
Lips - brown liner and gloss
Setting spray - pixie by Petra glow mist
Contour - sleek contour kit in dark and black radiance powder
Highlight - Betty Lou Manizer by theBalm
Liner - random elf liner that’s in the bottle but really good!!

Making Steven Universe Prop Gems

Alright guys so I know a big thing a lot of people have some trouble with is those gems. What the hell do you make them out of without it being expensive as all get out and so heavy that you can’t keep the gem on??? I got you. I like to cosplay on a budget, so I find the cheapest routes possible. You can make your Gem Prop for about $10, if not less. 

You need Model Magic, which you can get from Walmart in the craft section or craft stores over in the kids’ craft section. 

So this stuff is really weird. I bought it by accident for another cosplay YEARS ago because I thought it was real modeling clay and, surprise, I bought it with the intentions of creating a gem. So this stuff is super easy to work with. My high school freshman self, who had JUST started cosplaying, made a perfect gem with this stuff. I wish I still had it so I could show you, but it was spot on. (I was going to cosplay Richard the Warlock from LFG the Comic. He has a red diamond clasp on his outfit)

I revisited this stuff years later (now) when I started cosplaying steven universe. This time I remembered, not only that it was fairly cheap and easy to work with, but that it is SUPER lightweight when dried too. This stuff is kind of like a foam clay. When it dries, it dries like a solid clump of foam, so it’s super lightweight. Anyway, flash forward and here I am. 

My gem is being held up by nothing other than spirit gum. 

NOW….I have had a little more experience making gems since this photo was taken and I can tell you what to do and what not to do. In that photo, my gem is solid Model Magic and I also did not give it at least 24 hours to dry. So for larger gems like this, you want to make them sort of hollow, and definitely let them dry. Make sure you leave enough of a lip on the edges that you can spirit gum it to your back, tum, forehead, whatever. (Also make the gem asap so that they have a butt load of time to dry) If you don’t have spirit gum, are allergic to it, or just don’t feel like putting that stuff on you, the hollow shape also makes it much easier to set up a tiny rig to hold the gem up with clear string. My gem did eventually fall off, but not before I danced with my jasper about 20 times, not before I hugged dozens of people, not before I stunned the cosplay contest judges because they hadn’t seen a lapis cosplayer who was not using wires to hold up their gem, not before I got punched twice…you get the point. It came off as I was heading back up to my hotel room to shower.

“But what did you paint it with?” $0.99 nail polish. I’m not kidding. Nail polish is very pretty and its very easy to get two or three colors (a dark, a light, and in my case I got a gold) and just blend the polish while it is still wet and make it look like a stone. Then, after the nail polish was completely dry, I just sprayed it with gloss acrylic spray, but you can just use clear coat nail polish as well. The gloss on top of the nail polish makes it super shiny and very gem like.

“What about sticking it on? Doesn’t foam absorb everything?” I think you’ll be good. Like I said, my Lapis gem went through hell before coming off.  If you want to seal it that bad just use a 50/50 Elmer’s School Glue and water mixture and do a couple of coats on the back. 

Make sure that, once you get the gem to the shape you want it, you put it on your body where it’s going to be sitting BEFORE the model magic dries. Your body is not flat. I’m making a peridot gem now for a casual cosplay. I’m just going to be wearing my own glasses, so the gem is going on my forehead instead of a visor. I shaped the gem and stuck it to my forehead, now it’s just hanging out there and drying. Make your gem on a day off because it takes a bit for this stuff to dry enough that it can hold its shape. Unless you want to walk around the grocery store with a clump of foam stuck to your head. I’d rather nap tho.

“My gem is dry, but the surface is a little lumpy…” That’s fine! Drop $2 on a thing of ALL PURPOSE LATEX caulk (It MUST be latex), dab a VERY small amount onto the parts that need to be filled in dip your finger in some water, and smooth it out! Bam, now your gem is impact resistant (to a point, don’t go hitting it with a hammer or just flopping against a wall or something). Just use the 50/50 glue and water mixture to seal the whole surface after that and then paint with the nail polish and seal your gem. 

I’m remaking my Lapis gem now (I’m letting a friend borrow her at this next con we’re going to) and making the gem hollow ended up making the surface lumpy. I didn’t expect it to be smooth and you shouldn’t expect it to be smooth either unless you have a mold or something to press your gem into (I unfortunately did not, but oh well.)

You can get caulk at home improvement stores, walmart….anywhere that sells hardware stuff basically. It’s ALWAYS in or near the paint section, NOT the plumbing section like you’d think.

Hey and if you use this post to make your gem but come across some trouble, just message me and I’ll help you out! I’m not stingy with my cosplay knowledge! 


Harley Quinn Hammer v3.0
Part 1 - Design and Construction

One of my most cherished of Harley Quinn’s props has always been her giant hammer! Making this hammer was an adventure, a lot of firsts for me despite having made two previous hammers. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t love every second of constructing this. This post is pretty image heavy, so bear with me! There are many different styled hammers that I love and want, because I’m never satisfied. Even though I absolutely LOVE this hammer, I also plan on eventually making one or two other styles just to have some to choose from. Read on, traveler!

Keep reading

severalsunlitmornings  asked:

Hello there!! I've been a long time follower of your costumes here and on FB!! I love your sailor fuku's and I've begun to try and cast my own brooches! I was curious, if you brooches you've made so far for Neptune and such had bubbles?? And if so how did you polish or sand them to make them less noticeable? D: I appreciate any advice!!! ❤️

Hey! I use EasyCast Resin kit. The only time I’ve have bubbles in my resin is if the resin and hardener are too cold before mixing. They should be room temperature or a bit warmer, about the consistency of water.

‘Folding’ resin and hardener briskly together with a popsicle stick rather that ‘stirring’ can also eliminate bubbles. 

When I used to add dye to my resin, it would get cloudy sometimes. I stopped casting with dye and now I just paint the back of clear gems with metallic paint/nail polish. 

If your gem doesn’t look perfectly shiny when it comes out of the mold, you can spray it with gloss glaze (I like Krylon Triple Thick Gloss) and it will come out crystal clear!

If your gem ever gets a scratch or scuff the spray gloss helps fill it in and make it like brand new too! Works well for resin that might not have cured perfectly hard.

Hope that helps!!

Due to popular demand, I’ve created a tutorial for Tsukiyama’s mask. Thank goodness I took some progress pics along the way! Keep in mind, there isn’t really a ‘correct’ way to do it and throughout the manga, his mask design changes as the art style further develops so don’t stress too much about the shape. The only thing you should really keep in mind is: it’s a half-moon. When you rotate it approximately 90 degrees, you’ll see a sleeping moon face. It’s kinda cute, but really dorky, and 100% pun on his name.

To begin, gather your materials:
- sheet of white paper, for drafting the pattern
- measuring tape, to measure your face
- pencil, or pen if you’re feeling daring
- large sheet of craft foam (99c at your local Michaels craft store)
- scissors
- tape
- hot glue
- wood glue
- paint (black, white, red)
- gloss spray
- anything obvious that I’m forgetting to list here
- patience

I started by measuring my face: length from hairline to chin bottom, width, eye placement, etc and used it to sketch out a pattern. I don’t really know what black magic I worked here, but I got the pattern pretty accurate on the first try…and I didn’t even use a paper template, like I highly advise in my tutorial here.

As you can see in my progress pics, I did a little trimming here and there to modify the shape, but nothing too horrible. To make the circular shape 'pop’ (dome-like?), I cut a few triangles out (where the tape marks are in the first pic). Once I was satisfied with that, I used hot glue to secure the cuts in place. Then I moved over to my gas stove and heated the craft foam (it only takes a few seconds!) so that it would better maintain the shape. I pressed it against the back of a wig head to cool into that roundish shape, but you can cool it against whatever round surface you have available, like a ball or something.

Then I coated it in wood glue. Use thin layers for this. You don’t want to make it too solid, just reinforced yet still somewhat flexible. If you use too many –or too thick– layers, it will just crack with any pressure. Don’t let it dry into a jizz splatter like the pic above or you’ll just have to sand it. I advise you to sand it lightly anyway, once the wood glue layers are all dry. Make it as smooth as Tsukiyama’s butt after a nice waxing at the couple’s spa with Kaneki.

Now it’s time to paint! I used spray paint for the white cause it’s time efficient. If you don’t know how to spray smoothly, you’re probably better off hand-painting. Once the white paint is dry, you will really be able to see how well or how horrible the mask will look in its final form. Take this time to trim or sand anywhere as necessary.

If all is well, you can move onto the next step– detail painting. Don’t drink coffee beforehand like I did. A steady hand is really helpful here. I actually cheated and made templates for the eye and mouth parts because screwing up would mean that I’d have to spray it white all over again. If you’re brave though, go ahead and freehand it.

Once that paint job is done, spray it with some gloss coating and you’re finished!

anonymous asked:

I'm putting together a Lady Sif costume for my girlfriend and am doing some research. What did you use to make it and how did you get the details on the armor? Thanks in advance for any info you can share about your process.

Hello, Anon!  Firstly, I must apologise for the incredibly late reply on this.  I absolutely refused to answer your question when my own Lady Sif costume was not yet complete, but now that my time with making her has come to a close, I can answer your question properly!


            First and foremost, I made all of my patterns from scratch!  Therefore, you cannot purchase any part of the patterns anywhere. 

            To make my patterns I had wrapped with plastic wrap, and then taped with masking tape the section of my body that required a pattern being made from.  From there, after having been freed from my bondage, I would (with pencil first) trace out the shape of the pieces I needed to create, outlined with sharpie, cut them out, pinned them to muslin, drew seam allowance (I use 1cm) and then cut out my final muslin pattern.

            However, sometimes you will have to wrap a section of your body multiple times if there are pieces of your pattern that overlap each other so that you can create them individually.

            *Please note that sometimes this does require the help of a second person.  I found that bribing my siblings with Starbucks coffee is a highly successful method in accomplishing this.


The skirt was…quite annoying as I actually made three before I was remotely able to get it to look anything how I wanted!

I started off by drawing out the basic shape of the skirt and the panels, cut it out of muslin and did this until I created the right size, but I did not cut each panel individually!  I used upholstery vinyl and backed it with casa satin and cut out the “hemming” and glued everything together.  I then cut out individual strips for the raised stitching 0.5cm tall and 1cm wide.  I cut a thin slit on each end of the strip for every “stitch” and wrapped embroidery floss around it, tucking it into the slits to hold the fake stitching in place before gluing it down onto the panels as my skirt was way too thick to actually stitch and because it is made from vinyl, even if I did stitch it, it would have been flat and not raised like Sif’s screen costume.


I drew on the shape and seams of the bodice on my tape-form, cut it out, translated it onto muslin adding 1cm seam allowance and then cut it out on a stretch pleather.

*I ended up using different fabric for the bodice, but this is what the front of it looks like!  The back has one seam down the middle.


I drew on the on my tape-form, cut it out, translated it onto muslin adding 1cm seam allowance and then cut it out on the upholstery vinyl. 

I then glued the two sides together, as there is no stitching on these parts of the costume.

Then let it dry!

And then I trimmed the edges and coloured them in with a Berry Sharpie marker.


First and foremost, the base shoes I purchased were Cilo-11S Round Toe Wedge Pumps from Discount Women’s Dress Shoes for $24.99!  These are the exact same shoes I wore for my Thranduil cosplay.  If interested in looking at more detailed/complex boot tutorials (as Sif’s was super simple), please take a look at my Thranduil Cosplay Tutorial!

My height, in these boots, is almost 5′ 9″ or about 1m75cm.

Using the same exact pattern making as mentioned earlier, put on the base shoe you will be wearing and wrap that and your leg in plastic wrap and then tape. 

From here, I drew  on where the seams would be, and for this boot in particular, I had one seam from the top of the middle front, all away around my leg/boot, up to the top of the middle back. 

After cutting this off, I traced it onto muslin, adding extra room for seam allowance and also I made the top wider (as her boots are not form fitting).

I also made a pattern for the over-the-knee extension of the boot separately, after adjustments had been made in regards to the width of the boot.

I sewed in interfacing only in the calf area and over-the-knee bit, as well as zipper on the inside.



All armour is made from craft foam, coated in 5 layers of Gesso on the right side and backed with muslin and school glue to help stiffen it.  It was painted with Krylon Metallic Silver [Gold for the circles] gloss spray paint and weathered using FolkArt Metallic Gunmetal Grey #667, sealed and then coated in EnviroTex Lite [Pour On] High Gloss Finish resin.

All detailing was carefully drawn first and then traced over with Tulip Mettalics Dimensional Fabric Paint in Silver.

The pauldrons attach to the collar via heavy duty snaps, the chest, mid and back armour attack via side straps (the breastplate and back also have magnets on the inside and their opposites glued to the bodice to help keep it in place and the breastplate has a strap from each side that snaps in the back like a bra to also help prevent it from sliding).


I am pretty sure I cut up an old pair of gloves to help me get the pattern right for the glove portion of the bracer which I sewed in between two layers of vinyl (that go around my forearm).  The armour on the bracers is backed with two layers of vinyl as well which is sewn into the forearm piece with the armour glued on top.


Whilst wearing the pumps to be worn with the costume, I wrapped my leg AND shoe using the tape method before drawing out the pattern.  The armour is attached via heavy duty snaps.

On the bottom of the shoe, to prevent the fabric from ripping as I walk, using Contact Cement, I glued on soles made from black craft foam and stuck on no-slip grips.


I literally took the entire 2 yards of rectangle green fabric and hemmed the edges.  I took one of the short ends, took some thread (knotting one end) and made large stitches for how large I wanted the pleats, pushed the fabric down towards the knot (so that it bunched up) finished off the stitching and top stitched it on a machine so that the pleats stayed in place.

The fur, I took two rectangular pieces, right sides together, sewed along the edges (keeping the middle of a short end open) turned it inside out, sewed the cape to the fur piece and sewed on hooks to clip onto the D-ring’s that I sewed into the collar piece.

[Photography by In2thereview]


I purchased black fishnet and spray painted it silver…because I did not have time to make legit mail.  One day I will make actual mail for her.


The base of the shield has poster board in the middle with craft foam on each side and then cardboard on each side of that. 

On the inside of the shield, I sewed in a slot to put my sword and straps so I can hold it.  I glued it on using Contact Cement before putting the outside vinyl on.

First, I drew the knotting on to poster paper and cut it out with an X-ACTO knife, traced the knotting onto the craft foam, and cut it out with the X-ACTO knife as well.  

The shield itself is a few layers… 

There are two small V-shaped layers at the bottom.  The bottom layer has no knotting and the middle layer does.  

Then there is the top section which is also made up of numerous layers.  There is the base with the outside knotting on top, the middle section has large, flat pieces of foam with knotting on top of that as well.  

Look at the many layers of foam!

And now it is time to paint the shield and then gloss it!

Because I was extremely proud of how well my shield came out, I decided, that for this piece, I would do European 4 in 1 chainmail for the mail on either side of the shield armour.

The final height and with measurements of the shield are (at the tallest and widest points):

Height: 51.5cm
Width: 33.5cm

Please view my video tutorial on how I made the shield as it is a LOT easier to understand by watching the video!  Beware, it is long!


My amazingly beautiful sword was commissioned by a dear friend, Eric, Coregeek Cosplay & Creations and definitely check out his Facebook Page!

[Images are by Eric himself.  These are the ones he sent me of my sword before shipping it to me!]


Dany in Natural Black from Arda Wigs, brushed out to get rid of some of the volume and the lace front trimmed.

Unfortunately, this wig ONLY lasted me two days!   It became horribly knotted and matted.  Yes, it is salvageable, but all of my wig styling tools are back home in the States, and I had no access to it while in the U.K..

Here are some photos of the wig while it was still lovely: 

[Photography by Valentin Offner]

Due to how terrible the wig had become, I had to order a new wig off e-bay for 13 quid from Manchester in the colour 1B or Natural Black.  This wig was INCREDIBLY easy to brush through and didn’t knot nearly as much as the Arda wig!!!

Here is are a couple of photos of the new wig:

[Photography by Mikael Buck from an article in the Daily Mail.]

[Photography by Martin Siggers]

Featuring Loki of London as Loki!

[Photography by Ultimate Cosplay | Roku Hebi]


Do you enjoy my work?  Please follow me on my Facebook Fanpage and check me out on Youtube!