garden calendar

anonymous asked:

Hi Are you still doing altar lists? Can you do one for Amphitrite, Artemis, Demeter and Hera pleaaase? Thanks in advance xx

- Sea salt
- Sea Shells
- Coral or sea plants (fake)
- Pictures of sea life or
- Aquarium (if you’re good at taking care of fish)
- Dolphins
- Shrimp, lobsters, crab, clams
- Beach Sand
- Sea Glass or Drift Wood
- Salt Water (Ocean water)
- Candles (blue, green, teal, white, black)

- Deer
- Bow
- Arrows
- Bears
- Leather cord or pelts
- Picture/ painting of Orion constellation
- Photos of forest/wilderness
- Antlers
- Animal bones
- Leaves or rocks from woods
- Partridge, Quails, Herons
- Cypress
- Palm
- Jerky
- Spring water
- Candles (Brown, green, beige)

- Grain
- Bread
- Pigs
- Snakes
- Corn
- Wheat
- Sickle
- Gardening Calendar
- Soil from garden
- Corn dollies
- Cornucopia
- Candles (Brown, beige, green, yellow)

- Peacock feathers
- Wedding souvenirs
- Copy of marriage vows
- Septre
- Cows
- Lions
- Diadem
- Lotus
- Lily
- Hawks
- Cuckoo Bird
- Pomegranate/ Figs/ Oranges
- Constellation map
- Ivory
- Gold
- Candles (white, gold, blue, teal, green)

Altar Ideas
Amphitrite - Aphrodite - Apollo - Ares - Artemis - Asteria - Demeter - Dionysus - Hades - Hebe - Hekate - Hemera - Hephaestus - Hera - Hermes - Khione - Persephone - Poseidon - Selene - Zeus

Allium schoenoprasum

No vegetable gardener should refuse to give chives room. This perennial, hardy to -40° F, can be clipped almost continuously, and a half-dozen plants will supply enough snipping for year-round use. If not clipped, chives produce pompons of lavender flowers in late spring above their grasslike, hollow leaves. 

Chives grow best in rich, moist soil in full sun but will tolerate filtered shade. The easiest way to a quick harvest is to buy plants, but you can start seeds in small pots. Set plants into the garden 6 to 8 inches apart. Divide them every 3 to 4 years and fertilize every spring. 

Look also for garlic chives, or Chinese chives (Allium tuberosum). They have a mild garlic flavor and grow like regular chives, but they are taller and have white flowers in late summer. Plant them 12 inches apart and divide yearly, since they grow fast. Try them in salads and stir fried dishes. 

How to use. Chives impart a delicate onion flavor to a wide variety of dishes. Snip them into eggs, soups, sauces, cheese spreads, and dips. Sprinkle them into green salads or use to garnish cottage cheese or quiche. Spread chive butter on steaks or broiled seafood. 

Chives are best used fresh but are almost as good frozen and are still good dried. They are highly perishable, so don’t add them to food until just ready to serve, and don’t put them in uncooked dishes that will be stored. 

Chive flowers can be used as a garnish or mixed with white vinegar, which soon takes on a rosy hue and an oniony flavor. 

Ortho Books All About Vegetables © 1973

Brassica oleracea acephala
(Flowering Kale) H.
Brassica oleracea capitata
(Ornamental Cabbage) H.

Uses: Bedding, carpet and pattern beds, pot plant, specimen.
Color: Foliage is composed of thick, blue-green leaves with centers of white, pink, red, magenta, or purple.
Height: 10 to 15 inches.
How to Start: Sow indoors 6 to 8 weeks before setting out in February or March for spring display, or June and July for fall and winter effect. Ornamental cabbage seed should be sown and chilled in refrigerator for 3 days, then kept at 65°-70° until germination takes place. Light is required, so don’t cover seeds. Flowering kale seed requires neither chilling nor light to germinate. After germination, both should be grown at 60° for 3 to 4 weeks, then hardened off for a week before being placed outside. 
Where to Plant: Moist, well-drained soil and full sun. Flowering kale performs better and more colorfully if grown int he cooler temperatures of fall. 
Spacing: 15 to 20 inches.
Care: Easy. Keep soil evenly moist
Native to: Eurasia

Flowering kale and ornamental cabbage fit the “horticultural oddity” category, and seldom fail to elicit the most interested conversation. Although often touted as “ornamental edibles,” the leaves of ornamental cabbage are tough and bitter enough to defy any tastes. Flowering kale reputedly is edible, but hardly more palatable. And both usually shock the curious cook when their leaves turn deadly gray in boiling water. It’s best to keep these plants in the garden.

As cabbage and kale have a tendency to bolt in hot weather, producing inconspicuous flowers at the expense of their colorful foliage, they are regarded as temporary, cool season annuals. They withstand a few degrees of frost before injury occurs, and in mid-winter regions often remain attractive from fall until spring. Winter crops are spared the cabbage worm, a warm-weather pest. 

They are best as fall crops, when their colors have time to develop fully. Crops for late spring color must be started very early indoors to get large plants for setting in the garden in early spring. 

Considered a favorite for pattern bedding (floral clocks, spelling out the school name, and the like), cabbage and kale also make fine, colorful bedding and edging plants. If nothing else, grow a few in pots for the patio. Your neighbors may be amazed. 

All About Annuals © 1981

Most people, gardeners or not, know there is a big difference in taste between a supermarket tomato and one grown in a home garden. What many people do not know is that there is a similar difference between garden-grown potatoes and those bought in a store. Home-grown potatoes, no matter how they are cooked have a silky smooth texture and a mild but delicious flavor-qualities rarely found in store-bought potatoes. And they are relatively easy to grow. 

How to Plant - Potatoes require between 90 and 120 frost -free days to mature. UNlike most other cool season vegetables, their foliage is sensitive to frost. Start with certified, disease-free seed potatoes. These are small potatoes or sections of potatoes that are usually slightly shriveled and coated with fungicide to help prevent deterioration. They are available at most nurseries, seed stores and mail-order catalogs. The variety ‘Liberty’ can be grown from seeds but it’s much easier to start from seed potatoes. Don’t plant potatoes purchased in the produce section of a supermarket. They are often sprayed with chemicals to prevent sprouting. 

Cut the seed potatoes into chunks about 1-1½ inches in diameter. Each chunk should have at least two eyes (small buds). Plant in soil that is loose and rich in organic matter. Work in a general-purpose fertilizer at a rate of about a ½ pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row. Set the chunks, cut side down, 4 inches deep and 12 inches apart, in rows spaced 24 to 36 inches. Do this a week or two before the last frost date. 

The potatoes will sprout in about 2 to 3 weeks. When the sprouts reach 4 to 5 inches high, mound soil up against the stems, Continue to mound soil against the growing stems. Continue to mound soil against the growing stems as long as possible. The tubers will form along the stems in the mounded soil. 

How to grow - It is important to keep the developing potatoes covered because they will turn green if exposed to sunlight. The best way to do this is to apply at least a 6-inch layer of organic mulch such as straw. This will also help keep the soil cool and make harvesting easier because tubers will form closer to soil level and sometimes in the  mulch itself.  Potatoes must also be kept constantly moist. 

Varieties - Varieties are divided into early, midseason and late, and also differ by storage capabilities and by skin color - red, white and brown (russeted). There is even a blue variety that is available in some areas. Most nurseries will carry several locally adapted varieties. They may or may not be labeled. Mail-order catalogs have a larger selection. 

Harvesting - You can begin harvesting new potatoes - small immature tubers - when plants begin to flower. Gently feel around in the upper soil or mulch to find them. If you plan to store your potatoes over winter, they should be allowed to mature fully in the soil. Once the tops die down completely, gently dig up the tubers with a pitchfork or with your hands. Place them in a dark place at about 70F (21C) for about a week to heal any bruised. Then store those that are haled or bruise-free in a humid place at a temperature between 35F to 40F (2C to 4C).

Among the most fascinating of all the succulents are the so-called living stones (Lithops). Most plants are grown for their distinctive qualities; the more colourful and spectacular the flowers or foliage then the more interesting the plant is likely to be. The living stones are the exact opposite, in that the less conspicuous and less easy to detect they are, then the more they are likely to fascinate the growers and his friends.

Colours are mainly grey-green to reddish-brown, and when placed amongst pebbles of similar colouring Lithops can be very difficult to detect. There are many species to choose from, and their flowers are mainly white or yellow in colour. The plants form into small clumps, and seldom attain a height of more than two inches, so these could also prove useful and interesting for the grower who is faced with the eternal problem of limited space for all the plants he wants to grow.

The Complete Indoor Gardener © 1974

With the right treatment, a conservatory can be as hospitable to people as to plants. Plants benefit from the maximum light allowed through the glass roof and windows. The quarry tile floor is both durable and elegant and the informal furniture in cane and bamboo, though not sturdy enough for use outdoors, is ideally suited to a conservatory; its soft lines and colors blend well with the delicate shapes of plants. 

The Small Garden (John Brookes) © 1978


Type of bulb: Tuber; rhizome (A. appennina)
Season of bloom: Spring
Colors: Purple, blue, red, pink, white
Grows to: 3 to 18 inches
When to plant: Autumn; early spring for A. coronaria and A. fulgens where winter temperatures fall below 0°F/-18°C
Where to plant: Sun, part shade, or light shade
How deep to plant: 1 to 2 inches
Hardiness: Varies

“Bright” and “cheerful” are two adjectives often applied to anemones. And with good reason: their clear, vivid colors seem to capture the essence of springtime. The most widely available types can be separated into two groups, based on size, hardiness, and uses. 

Daisylike flowers and stems no taller than 8 inches characterize rhizomatous A. apennina and tuberous A. blanda. These are the hardy anemones, able to withstand temperatures of -10°F/-23°C (or lower, if protected with a winter mulch)–and in fact, both need winter chill for good performance. Bloom begins in early spring; A. blanda flowers several weeks before A. apennina. Both species have clumps of fernlike parsleylike foliage and blue flowers–sky blue and upward facing in A. apennina, darker blue and nodding in A. blanda. Each also has varieties with white and pink blossoms. 

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