forms and colors

Season 16 Episode 14- A Fitting Finale

This finale was one of my favorites in quite a few seasons.  I truly had no idea who was going to win, and I could see any of the four of the designers winning.  The last time that I could see any of the designers in the finale legitimately winning was way back in season 7 with Mila, Emilio and Seth Aaron.  I also believe that any of these collections is superior to every collection from the past twos seasons, with only Kelly and Erin’s coming close.

Do I agree with the winner?  Well you will have to see my rankings, but in short I think I would have been happy with any outcome. Onto the rankings:

4. Brandon

I loved the flamingo print and most of his silhouettes, but as a collection is was very one note.  There is a hint of teal/aqua in the flamingo print and I would have loved to see him use a really saturated form of the color like he did with the pink leather in a few looks.

This is my favorite look from his collection.  The leather shirt over the dress gives an interesting silhouette and layering effect.  The print works very well here because it was broken up and his styling is on point.

The play on the shirt construction on the skirt is fun, but it is starting to become an old and worn out trend.  The top is very Brandon in every way possible.

I love the shirt dress underneath.  For all of the menswear Brandon has done he never made a shirt dress until the finale which I found interesting.  The proportion of the vest to the dress is all wrong and the vest looks a bit tortured.  I also wish it was in a different fabric.

The top is a snooze fest and it needs to be a color far more different than the flamingo print.  I really like the skirt with the closures at the bottom and extreme asymmetrical hem.

I am still trying to figure out what is happening here and if I like it.  From the front it is a long coat dress but from the back it looks like a shirt over a dress.  I do like the ruffling along the hem and the you can see the gradient of the flamingo print because it such a long piece of fabric.

This look I love.  It is a simple shirt dress but the details make it special.  The oversize sleeves balance out the relative shortness of it from the front, but I also like that it is longer in the back.  I can take or leave the straps, but the don’t feel over superfluous here.

This piece lacks balance.  I like everything individually, it just so happens that everything draws your eye to her right thigh and not her upper body.  I’ve seen the shirt before in his collection so I would have likes something different on top to balance it out.  The bottom just looks messy.

That paper bag waster is still not working but I am glad he got rid of that tortured top from last week.  Too bad he just added a basic tank instead.  I like to imagine this look with an aqua/teal shirt like in his first look.  The waist down is great and I wish he did more pants in his collection.

This is my second favorite look of the collection.  I love the play on a paper doll dress, and I love the crispness of the leather juxtaposed with the flow and busyness of the dress underneath.  The proportions are right as well.

This is quite underwhelming as a finale piece.  From the back it gives his model a much better shape than the front.  Overall it’s just a bit bland and more of the same from his rest of his collection.

3. Ayana

It was tough to decide between 2nd and third place because I genuinely liked both collections.  Ayana ultimately came in 3rd for two reasons, repetitiveness and the fact that were a few looks I thought were wasted spots in her collection. In the end I truly thought the judges would award her the win because she really showed her modest aesthetic and probably would have done the most with the money.

I love this geometric lace and that she decided to make an entire look out of it.  The pants could be a bit more fitted and I don’t understand why she hs basically the same top on twice (I know one is a shirt and one is a jacket but still).  

I’m not well versed on hijab traditions but I think a hijab out of that lace on this look would have been killer.

I don’t need this hoodie at New York Fashion Week and I don’t understand it within the context of the collection.  the pants are essentially the same cut as the previous look but fabric blocking in a hexagonal pattern mimicking the lace was shows Ayana’s fabrication genius.

If she would have put this top with her pants from look 2, scrapped these velous pieces and created a new top and skirt combo I’d be happy.  The top is gorgeous and unabashedly Ayana.  The skirt is a throw away.  There isn’t much of a market for that length and that cut of skirt.

I sang the praises of this look last week and I will sing them again.  every single piece is gorgeous on its own and together they are even better. The lighting last week didn’t really show off the shine of the shirt which plays well the matte jacket and pants.  I love how loose the jacket is from the front yet it is still fitted in the back. J’dore.

I like this marginally better than when she showed it last week.  The greens are definitely popping more, but I still wish it was injected with even more color.  I think this model may be a few sizes smaller than her model last week and I think it definitely moves better on this one.  It’s just boring.

I love this look.  This is her fifth pant in six looks yet it is different than of them. This is a master class in proportions.  The ruffles on the sleeves hit in the right spot and the skirt hits at the right point on the thighs to lengthen the model while also making your eyes move around her body.

This is the only look in the collection where I can feel Ayana trying to make a modest look.  There is no reason to have pants on under this dress unless it is to create a modest look.  This is also just too much of this fabric, I think the shinier print would have worked better.

This is so luxurious.  I love the asymmetrical ruffles on her waist and thighs which make this special.  It is also her only jumpsuit which is impressive considering we live in a world of jumpsuits right now. (Though it may be a shirt and pants)

When Brandon said this looks like an amphibian I totally agreed.  Not only is it because of the fabric, but when it moved down the runway it reminded me of a newt swimming through the water.  What I’m saying is I loved it.

This may be the single best piece that ever walked down the runway.  There really is just nothing else to say because that says it all.

2. Margarita

Margarita’s collection came down to one thing, taste.  I love how she went full force into tropical island girl style and didn’t neuter her collection like others (Candice) have in the past.  From head to toe, beginning to end, this collection was a Margarita moment.

You know what you are getting from a collection when this looks turns the corner.  From print, to cut, to color, to the feathers this is a wow look without going over the top.  I love the sunglasses she designed as well.  I wish she used this blue throughout her collection more.

It felt a little odd to have the only gown in the collection be in the middle, but then again this also feels a bit like a cover up.  The print and color are vibrant and the up close beading detail is gorgeous.

The judges disliked the feathers but i am all about them.  She mixed all three of her prints in one look and it worked out fabulously.  The way she used the striped print from front to back is fabulous.

I agree with the judges, this is the one piece I could do without.  It does make her model look thin and tall, but it’s just a bit busy yet underwhelming at the same time.

Yes. Bitch. Work.  This look was a moment with a capital M.  the suit is gorgeous on its own and very flattering to Jazzmine, and the cover-up converts it into a cute part dress.  I could see a lot of girls wearing that as a dress on a summer day.

This is where I think the feathers go to far. Other than that I think this is pretty great.  the cut of the pants is sublime, it is not easy to line up that pattern like that across her thighs. I’m not sure how the top works and if it would fall off if the drapes came around front.

The dress I can live without but that bomber is the star.  I love it.

This may be my favorite piece in Margarita’s collection.  it is unabashedly latina in its silhouette and print, but the sheer skirt takes it from costume to fashion.  It’s a dramatic silhouette and different from the rest of her collection.

Honestly, this look was one of my favorites last week, but it is a bit of a low note in her collection as a whole.  The pants are still great, but the top is too heavy for the pants.  They have a sense of humor and he shirt is just to serious.

I love every piece here, but the problem is that this is not a finale piece.  I understand it in the context of the collection, but this is not a memorable final piece.  the trench is everything but the clothes underneath are just that, clothes.  I almost wish her bathing suit was the finale piece.

1. Kentaro

Was there any other option?  I guess the answer yes because every designer sent down a strong collection, but this was the most FASHION we have seen on this show since the Christian and Leanne back to back knock out collections of seasons 4 and 5.  There were a few low notes, but over all this collection hit all the right notes.  I’m glad that, like Margarita, Kentaro just went for it with reckless abandon.

If anyone ever asks you how to open a show, this is it.  The silhouette from behind the screen was breathtaking, if not a bit comme de garcons.  he would have gotten further away from that with a different sleeve length.

A wonderfully simple note. The painted/dyed leggings were perfect with the bagginess of the top, and the sleeves work better here than in look 1.

Made in one day, but that doesn’t mean that I can give it a pass.  The front is boring and the back is awful.

I love everything about this.  the cut out tee is a fresh note in the collection and I love the double sided pants.  They shouldn’t work but they do.

Kentaro showed a real color story through his collection and it looked almost like a Japanese ink painting, utilizing black, white and red.  The nudes are like the red bleeding into the rest of the collection.  This is such a simple dress but extremely well executed.  The proportions are perfect.

This dress sings.  It still have the proportion issue in the top from last week, but the concept is so strong and because the flaw isn’t egregious this ends up being on of the stars of his collection.

AB-SO-LUTELY! The note of red works perfectly in the context of the collection. Once again it is a bit Comme de Garcons however it is still very Kentaro and not a knock off.  The v is so low cut but the rest of her is so covered it works perfectly.  It is like this top was made for his model, it sits perfectly on her.  I want this.

I shouldn’t like this, but at the same time it is amazing.  I love the layering of the fabrics and it fits her like a glove.  It is a new silhouette for the collection but still remains part of the story.

We’re pretending this didn’t happen right?  He made a slip dress.  I’m surprised the judges didn’t mention this look (or his finale) at all during judging.

Because this finale look is everything I have ever wanted from project Runway.  It’s so odd and quirky yet hits a perfect note of sophistication.  For me this look won him the competition.

Not since season 3 has the show had 4 finalists who so clearly showed their point of view in stunning finale collections.  Faith restored in this show.

Winner: Kentaro

2nd, 3rd, 4th: Ayana, Brandon, Margarita

Eacles imperialis

by Vanessa Verdecia 

A culture of imperial moth caterpillars (Eacles imperialis) was reared on oak leaves this summer in Carnegie Museum of Natural History’s Section of Invertebrate Zoology. This species is common in Pennsylvania and belongs to the giant silkworm moth family known as the Saturniidae. The caterpillars occur in various color forms including green, brown, red, and pink, but they all have long setae (“hairs” as seen in the image) and pronounced white spots along the side. All the ones in this culture were brown. The larvae occur from July through September, and there is one generation this far north. The adult moths should eclose next year—late spring or early summer.


Vanessa Verdecia is a collection assistant in the museum’s Invertebrate Zoology Section. Museum employees are encouraged to blog about their unique experiences and knowledge gained from working at the museum.

i’m

not sure what i was trying to do, but here’s this height chart i guess??

anonymous asked:

Oh my stars your art is amazing!!! Do you think maybe you can make a shading tutorial sheet? owo

Hey there Anon! Sure thing! I’ll do my best to explain the process of how I usually do things in regards to coloring and shading. I’m not the greatest at Explaining, so I’ll do my best to keep things as crystal clear as possible!

Step 1: Lineart
I’ll start with Lineart purely because this step is important to the coloring process in one regard, and that is making sure the entire line layer is closed without any holes. Even the smallest little gap will make the selection process hard later, and we don’t want that. So the cleaner lineart you have, the better. I’m going to go ahead and use my Monster Hunter Generations Huntress for this.

Step 2: Selection
Either in Photoshop or SAI or whatever you use, click outside your character and any other negative space surrounding them. This means…basically anything that’s not your character. Then go to Selection > Inverse and invert the selection. You should have something similar to what I have below. This makes it so much easier to add colors without having to worry about all the little nooks and crannies that could mess the cleanliness of the drawing up real bad.

Step 3: Flat Base
Create a new layer beneath your line layer with the selection still active. This will be our color layer. Remove the visibility of the line layer, and fill the remaining “Silhouette” with a dark base color. This makes those nasty corners look a bit cleaner, as sometimes if there is a lighter color your computer will want to make them stand out pixelated. Again, this is just for cleanliness beneath the line layer. Turn your line layer back on, as they will now act as barriers for the fill bucket tool. Make sure the entire silhouette is filled, and that no lines were accidentally selected! You want a see a completely filled and flat color if you turn the line layer off.

Step 4: Flat Colors
At this point you can lock the transparency of your Color Layer, and go ham. Either with the pen or a fill bucket, figure out how you want to color your character and add in the flat colors. Notice I’m on the same layer as the Base that we made. This is so those lines still play nicely with one another. Clean up where necessary.

Step 5: Analogous Color Gradient
Well, we don’t really want our character to be too flat, do we? This is where the color wheel becomes your best friend. Select similar colors with the Magic Wand (like I’ve done her skin tone here) and using the color wheel, choose an analogous (that means “close by” in color wheel terms) color to add a bit of depth to the color. For skin, I usually go with a red or a bronze, sometimes purple. Use the airbrush for this. Then, deselect and select another color to gradient, until all the colors have some degree of new color to them.

See? Now things look interesting! We added some blue to the greens, some purples to the reds, some blues to the grays and so on and so forth.

Step 6: Shading
Okay, here’s where things get interesting. Time to shade. Make a new layer between the Line Layer and Color Layer, and make sure you make it a clipping group/clipping mask. This is so it won’t go anywhere that you don’t have color. Set it to multiply or linear burn (whichever you think looks best) and bump the opacity down to about 40-50%. Choose a color (or color-value gradient, if you have drastic value changes in your piece that make light and dark values not play well with the single color you picked, and swap between those) that you want the shadows to be; I like deep pinks and purples. AVOID BLACK. I first use the Pen tool to get down “hard” shadows - shadows cast by hard materials, close shadows, and inorganic materials. Once I’ve got those down, I head on over to the softer areas, such as the skin, hair and cloth and alternate between the watercolor and marker tools to give “softer” shadows. There’s no real law to this, you just have to know where shadows fall and how they behave and  work with those three tools to get the look you want.

Step 7: “Highlights” - Rim Lighting
Okay, these aren’t really “highlights” in the correct sense, but adding sort of “rim lighting” around forms really helps make a picture pop. To do this, make another layer above the shading layer, set it to “screen” and keep the opacity at 100%. Then, get really familiar with your CRTL key because you’re going to be color sourcing a lot. To add a rim light to a form, select the base color of that form, and use the marker to trace along the edges. For example, I picked up the nude from the skin, the silver from the dagger, the gold and maroon from the hair and the tawny brown from the skull to use on those specific objects. Any place you want clean works well, but the edges of forms works best for this technique. Additionally, if you’d like, you can create another layer above the Screen Layer and set it to Linear Dogde, and do my “glowing eyes” technique on anything you want to stand out, such as the metal of the belt, gold objects and of course, eyes.

Step 8: The Overlay
Almost done! While your photo can now stand alone as “finished”, there’s one more thing that I enjoy doing, and that’s adding a simple color overlay to bring the whole picture together. This is done by flattening all the layers you have so far (you’ll want to “Merge Down” in order from bottom to top or “Flatten” to avoid the layers going crazy on each other) into one layer. Then, make a layer on top of that one, set it to a clipping mask, and set it to “overlay”. With the Airbrush, choose some colors (I prefer soft pinks, blues and violets) and go along the “edges” of your character with a BIIIIIG brush. This kind of resembles soft ambient lighting or shadows. I just think it makes the photo look nicer.

TA-DA! And Now we’re done!

And there we go! I hope that helped, and I also apologize cause this ask sat in my box for awhile and I never got around to it until now. :P
I’d be happy to answer any questions y’all have, but this is the simple basics! Remember to practice practice PRACTICE!
-Gael