È stato un weekend breve ma intenso. Siccome l’ultima volta che ho fatto una roba simile (vedi Lisbona) mi sono arrivati mille messaggi di “non hai mangiato questo” e “dovevi mangiare quello”, dico subito che in tre giorni ho fatto il possibile per imbottirmi di cose ciccione, ma quando ho iniziato ad espellere olio dalle orecchie ho preferito darmi un contegno. E tra l’altro sono una persona orribile che preferisce il salato ai dolci, mi spiace.
1. Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba, Via Port'Alba 18: While Naples’ oldest pizzeria offers a full-service dining room, you couldn’t do better than to visit the 183-year-old place, grab a small, folded portafoglio pizza wrapped in paper, and eat it while walking around the block, where you’ll find a great selection of new and antiquarian bookstores.
2. Di Matteo, Via dei Tribunali: Opened in 1936, this combination pizzeria-friggitoria (fried-food specialist) in the historic district is where President Bill Clinton wolfed down a pizza back in 1994 (and, boy, do they have the pictures to prove it). Here you can buy fried rice balls and pasta-filled fritters to enjoy on the street, or settle into one of the quiet dining rooms for a superb pizza margherita.
3. Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente, Via dei Tribunali 120: Run by effervescent pizzaiolo Enzo Cacialli, this 2-story pizzeria just down the block from Di Matteo is a welcoming spot to sample some of the city’s most beloved pies. Cacialli’s talents are beautifully exhibited in his simple pizza marinara, its crust topped with sweet tomato sauce, garlic, wild marjoram, olive oil, and basil.
4. L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, Via Cesare Sersale 1: The purists at this famous pizzeria that first opened in 1906 serve only margherita and marinara pizzas. Both are spectacular.
5. Pizzeria Capatosta, Via Guglielmo Marconi 80: This homey pizzeria 20 km northeast of Naples in the scenic town of Recale features a large wood-paneled dining room brimming with trophies won by brothers Enzo and Lello Giustiniani for their pizzas. Those pies, as well as the excellent antipasti offered here, are worth the trip.
6. Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo, Via dei Tribunali 32: Packed with locals, tourists, and students from the nearby University. One of the city’s most lauded pizzerias since its opening in 1935, great marinara pizzas.
7. Pizzeria Starita, Via Materdei 27: Antonio Starita and his son Giuseppe fire up some of Naples’ best pizza pies, from the classic marinara to the lightly fried Montanara Starita at this bustling pizzeria, the setting of the classic 1954 Sophia Loren film L'Oro di Napoli. Don’t miss out on the rachetta, a tennis racket-shaped pizza-calzone hybrid lavished with cheese and mushrooms.
8. Pizzeria La Notizia, Via Caravaggio 53: In the high-end Vomero district, pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia serves beautifully rendered classics, as well as the whimsical pizza del contadino, a calzone stuffed with warm escarole tossed with sardines, pecorino cheese, and mozzarella di bufala.
Pizza Napoletana is made with tomatoes and mozzarella cheese. It can be made with San Marzano tomatoes, which grow on the volcanic plains to the south of Mount Vesuvius, and mozzarella di bufala Campana, made with the milk from water buffalo raised in the marshlands of Campania and Lazio in a semi-wild state (this mozzarella is protected with its own European protected designation of origin). The genuine Neapolitan pizza dough consists of wheat flour (type 0 or 00, or both), natural Neapolitan yeast or brewer’s yeast, salt, and water. For proper results, strong flour with high protein content must be used. The dough must be kneaded by hand or with a low-speed mixer. After the rising process, the dough must be formed by hand without the help of a rolling pin or other machine, and may be no more than 3 mm thick. The pizza must be baked for 60–90 seconds in a 485 °C stone oven with an oak-wood fire. When cooked, it should be soft, elastic, tender and fragrant. There are 3 official variants: Pizza Marinara, made with tomato, garlic, oregano and extra virgin olive oil, Pizza Margherita, made with tomato, sliced mozzarella, basil, and extra-virgin olive oil, and Pizza Margherita Extra made with tomato, mozzarella from Campania in fillets, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.