foam model

Decided to make a tutorial on how I made my star Butterfly wand. I didn’t have enough money to get it 3d printed, or worbla, or even get an old mickey mouse wand that lit up. So I went a cheap route that also ended up looking okay.

Materials needed:

Hot glue.

Mod podge

Polymer clay.

Model magic.

Craft foam.

Styrofoam ball. I would say a 4″. It’s usually the medium sized one you find at Michaels.

purple paint. Dark purple or lighter that depends on you.

Blue paint. Three shades. Dark. Light and super light. 

Yellow paint. Pink paint. Gold paint.

A ton of glitter. I mean a ton. TONNN. *whispers* a ton.

Steps:

1- First take the Styrofoam ball and cut off a inch, and a half off of the front. Since the front of Star’s wand has that flat surface for the front. I used a normal kitchen knife for this step since styrofoam is pretty easy to cut through. JUST BE CARE FULL!!

2- Take some of your craft foam, and trace the front of the styrofoam ball. Making a circle! That’s for the front. You take that circle and paint it with the dark blue paint.

3- Take the foam again, and cut out five one inch long strips (they should be almost an inch wide. I’m pretty bad at measurements lol) Take them, use the medium shade of blue and make a point. Paint the side that will be facing the star later on the medium blue, and then the other side lighter blue.

4- I made the hearts in the center of the inch long strips of foam out of foam. But you can use whatever you want. Just make sure to paint them pink after!! 

5- Time for the main focal point of this bad boy. Take your polymer clay and cut out a star with it. Then take something sharp. A pin, safety pin…etc. Go around the edges to make an indent. The distance you choose from the edge is totally up to you. Throw that bitch in the oven at 125 degrees for about fifteen minutes. Depends on the thickness.

6- I didn’t have time to get a piece of wood to cut out for a handle. So I just used polymer clay for it. My handle is about 8 inches long. At least an inch, and a half of it is in the styrofoam ball.  Put in the oven at 125 degrees, same time as the star if not longer. 

7- Make the crown on top of the wand that,that butterfly looking thing for the center. And the little heart for the bottom. aka the charger. Put it in the oven at 125 for 15 minutes. (Becareful with the heart at the bottom. Mine kept popping off because it’s at a very odd angle)

8-Model magic time. You take it and cover the entire back of the ball with it. Smooth it out the best you can. I know this shit is a pain in the ass. Let it dry over night or for two days. It depends on when you do it. Mine dried over night.

9- Take the foam again to make the wings for the side. I used a template by pulling up a photo of the wand, and tracing the wings. Then put them against the ball cutting it to make sure the inside of the curve rested against the ball. 

Paint them white even if you already used white foam. 

10- Paint everything that has been stated so far. 

11- Glue the one inch strips that you painted the two shades of blue onto the darker blue circle. Make sure the stars main point is facing up. The one inch pieces should be under each point of the star. Then glue the pink hearts between them. This gives it that 3D look. Then glue the circle to the styrofoam ball.

12- This is when you put down more model magic hiding the edges of where the ball, and foam meet. Try your best to make it all even. This was the hardest part to do for me. Then when it’s dry paint it. Be careful about it!

13- Take the handle and use it to carve a small indent. A place where the handle can sit secure enough for you to hold. Then hot glue the shit out of it. Make sure the handle is super snug. 

14- Take the model magic again, and make a small dome at the end of the handle. Let it dry, and paint it yellow.

15-Glue on the crown, butterfly, heart, and the wings to the side.

16- Take your mod podge in a cup.The first coat should just be mod podge by itself. Paint it all over. Make sure to get it in any cracks you find. It’ll fill it up. Model magic likes to crack so that will probably be the only thing with crack. 

Then pour some glitter into your mod podge cup and coat the wand in glitter. I put four coats at least. Because I’m a glitter nutjob


The picture should help out with a better reference if some of my words don’t make sense. Feel free to message me if you have any questions. 

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While the Oldroyd-B model is traditionally used for viscoelastic fluids, we show that its interpretation as a plastic flow naturally allows us to simulate a wide range of complex material behaviors. In order to do this, we provide a modification to the traditional Oldroyd-B model that guarantees volume preserving plastic flows.“

Sieglinde Sullivan wig tutorial/Commissions

I finished my wig for my Sieglinde Sullivan cosplay so I figured I’d post a tutorial. If you’re too lazy to make your own wig (It took me 3 days and 2 trips to walmart) you can send me a message and I will do a commission ((; 


Keep reading

Loki Horned Diadem Tutorial -Redo-

this past few months you’ll know I have just finished the biggest, most elaborate, and first cosplay of mine. Lady Loki Laufeyson. Now–every project has their setbacks and mine was absolutely no different. Specifically, my horns were too large to be supported by my headpiece. I couldn’t have this happen because the horns are the centerpiece! They are what make you stand tall and look with a sense of pride! So despite all my hard work, I completely scrapped the diadem, the method I had used, and bought new materials. Now, I have returned with a better set of instructions for you to make your own set of wicked amazing, delightfully mischievous Loki horns!!

Firstly, you wanna get the headpiece out of the way. I decided that just one or two layers was going to work in maintaining stability. I made 4 craft foam traces of my pattern for the headpiece and used modpodge matte to glue them together, then used acrylic Gesso to make a nice base for painting and detailing. I actually painted on 4 layers of Gesso to really help with sturdiness. Set aside, and lets get down to business to defeat the horns.

Okay, so above we have all the starting materials, aside from patience that is. What you’re gonna do, is take that foam circle and cut it directly down the center, cutting it into half. After, take a look at the ends and figure out what thickness you want. You’re going to want to make them slightly thinner than your goal size. Best to use a serrated knife and mark a guide line of what to cut away. Don't worry if you get an uneven finish. That’s what the 3m grit sandpaper is for. Speaking of! grab up that sandpaper and cut yourself a more handy piece! Get to work in shaping the curve, sand down unwanted edges, and don’t forget to taper to a point on one side. This is what I came up with :

Now that you have your basic form, time to relive childhood! Remember the snakes you used to roll out of play doh? Make a long one out of model magic! I used white but it doesn’t matter as you’ll be layering on Gesso later. But back to the task at hand! Once you have a nice snake that doesn’t look too thin, I found that starting from the tip and working my way down made for less denting. Just slowly and steadily coil the model magic around the base, pressing it down as you go. I used approximately a whole package to get the job done. Once your base is covered, dip your fingers in some lukewarm water and smooth out the lines and dents as much as you can. This is only the beginning and they aren’t gonna look the greatest at this point. But don’t despair!! Just lay them down on a trash bag to dry out for about 2-3 days.

-Le 2-3 Days Later-

Time to sand ‘em down! This is the part that really counts. You wanna get them as smooth as humanly possible. It’ll take a lot of time and you may lose some of your model magic on the sides, but keep calm. I found that you want to first sand down all the fine cracks and such as well as your edges and tips. To buff out all the dents, use a light, circular motion. With the grit of sandpaper we are using, luckily it doesn’t take much work and it is super affective. Just don’t sand with a heavy hand. Be diligent. Below I have the before sanding horn on the right and the after on the left.

See what difference sanding makes?? It really helps to focus on the edges and the inside of the curve. Moving on~! Go into your toolbox and get yourself a pair of plastic drywall anchors. I would go with a standard size. You’ll wanna slowly push these up the center of the bottom of your horns. Make sure they’re straight going in or you could punch right through your foam base. If this happens, just push the foam as much as u can manage back in place, sand it down, and use some 6000 glue -super glue- to seal up the crack with a paintbrush. All good!!

Final step!! Get yourself some chopsticks and a sturdy bottomed cup -like maybe a glass mug or freezer mug-. Put each horn in a chopstick by using the opening provided by your anchor. Put them in the cup and carefully apply your first coat of Gesso with a nice sized paintbrush. Apply 3 more coats over the span of the next three days.

Once your last Gesso layer dries, you’re on the home stretch!!! Get yourself a pair of screws with a flat surface so it won’t leave impressions on your forehead later. Get your horns attached! For fastening it to your head, measure out some elastic and cut some Velcro. It is as easy as that!!!

As far as painting goes, I went with Rustoleum’s Hammered Gold. For the weathering, I used some black fabric paint and rubbed it in circular motions until I was happy with it.

That’s all there is to it!!! I wish you all best of luck!